thatcabledude
GOLD Star
It means piss was used.What does it mean when I see alot of steam coming out my exhaust?
And I'm seeing milky looking stuff in my oil?
.
Oil? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ryanrtxtx
- Start date
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ewillis
SILVER Star
10W30 works good for me 
93yotasr5
Come and take it
Rotella 5-40.
Synthetic and I've used it on my 325k mile rig for 7 years now.
Synthetic and I've used it on my 325k mile rig for 7 years now.
What does it mean when I see alot of steam coming out my exhaust?
And I'm seeing milky looking stuff in my oil?
That depends. Take off your oil filler cap and see if there's any milky or chocolate milk looking goo under it. If there is, your head gasket may be blown.
LOL!What does it mean when I see alot of steam coming out my exhaust?
And I'm seeing milky looking stuff in my oil?
Rotella T in everything I own.
- Thread starter
- #27
Seems like Rotella is a very popular option. I hadn't heard of it before. Can you give me some details on the benefits? Good for a daily driver?
- Thread starter
- #28
T6 w30 or w40? What oil change interval do you use?
w40
Rotella is designed for diesel engines, and has a high amount of zinc.
How often depends on the vehicle. Daily driver is about 8-10k miles. Other vehicles are done based on when I have time, and how the oil feels/smells/looks.
Rotella is designed for diesel engines, and has a high amount of zinc.
How often depends on the vehicle. Daily driver is about 8-10k miles. Other vehicles are done based on when I have time, and how the oil feels/smells/looks.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Rotella 5-40 here as well with great results for many years.
10k intervals on the 80 (1fz)
5k intervals on the 45 (sbc)
10k intervals on the 80 (1fz)
5k intervals on the 45 (sbc)
@ryanrtxtx , not sure if this has been suggested to you yet but, there is a site called "bobistheoilguy.com". There, you can read for days and days learning more about motor oil than anyone who is not a petroleum engineer needs to know. As I said before, I like the chevron Delo 400 because it contains higher levels of boron and moly.
A Diesel engine oil will have a more robust additive package than oil for gasoline engines therefor, in theory, you should be able to run it longer and it will clean your engine up if this matters to you.
Most of us are on this forum because we are Landcruiser nuts and we get caught up in caring for our babies as well as possible when all we really need to do is follow Toyota's recommendations.
It used to be that crude oil from the Pennsylvania area was superior, as a starting point, to crude oil from other areas of the U.S. And that mattered due to old refining techniques where solvents were used. A company called Chevron came up with Hydro-cracking in the early 90's and now most if not all oil is refined this way. Oil is a commodity now. A more expensive oil is so because of the additive package which is up to as much as 25% of what's in the bottle. The better the additive package, the more expensive the oil, the longer you should be able to run it with proper filtration. The base oil never wears out, it only gets dirty over time. The additive package does deplete over time and when its all used up, the oil can no longer protect your engine as it once did.
So, in theory, all parameters being the same, you should be able to run a more expensive oil longer because you should be getting a stronger additive package.
I also own a 2005 Dodge/Cummins. I got into extending my OCI's using oil analysis a while back. At 15k I sent a sample to black stone labs and they said it was good to keep running and to send them another sample in 3k miles. This was on delo 400 in a Diesel engine that is dirtier than your 1fz. Since my engine was still under warranty and my owners manual says 15k max OCI, I changed it despite blackstone's recommendations. I have since settled into 10k OCI'c with an occasional analysis.
The motor oil topic is way over debated because you can run any oil 5k with a decent filter unless the environment you drive in is under water or in sandstorms.
A Diesel engine oil will have a more robust additive package than oil for gasoline engines therefor, in theory, you should be able to run it longer and it will clean your engine up if this matters to you.
Most of us are on this forum because we are Landcruiser nuts and we get caught up in caring for our babies as well as possible when all we really need to do is follow Toyota's recommendations.
It used to be that crude oil from the Pennsylvania area was superior, as a starting point, to crude oil from other areas of the U.S. And that mattered due to old refining techniques where solvents were used. A company called Chevron came up with Hydro-cracking in the early 90's and now most if not all oil is refined this way. Oil is a commodity now. A more expensive oil is so because of the additive package which is up to as much as 25% of what's in the bottle. The better the additive package, the more expensive the oil, the longer you should be able to run it with proper filtration. The base oil never wears out, it only gets dirty over time. The additive package does deplete over time and when its all used up, the oil can no longer protect your engine as it once did.
So, in theory, all parameters being the same, you should be able to run a more expensive oil longer because you should be getting a stronger additive package.
I also own a 2005 Dodge/Cummins. I got into extending my OCI's using oil analysis a while back. At 15k I sent a sample to black stone labs and they said it was good to keep running and to send them another sample in 3k miles. This was on delo 400 in a Diesel engine that is dirtier than your 1fz. Since my engine was still under warranty and my owners manual says 15k max OCI, I changed it despite blackstone's recommendations. I have since settled into 10k OCI'c with an occasional analysis.
The motor oil topic is way over debated because you can run any oil 5k with a decent filter unless the environment you drive in is under water or in sandstorms.
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I run Quaker State 5W-30 year around in my 96 with 251K on it. I have excellent oil pressure, I use no oil, I burn no oil. I go 7500 miles between oil changes per Blackstone oil analysis. Head gasket replaced at 145K as well as head rebuild. (PO)
I do a Blackstone analysis every OTHER oil change just to monitor.
I use QS because years ago, I bought a new car (Chevy). At 75K miles, I had to pull a head. When I did, the cylinders still had cross-hatching and there was zero ring ridge in the cylinders. All I had ever used in that engine was QS. That sold me on the use of QS permanently.
I do a Blackstone analysis every OTHER oil change just to monitor.
I use QS because years ago, I bought a new car (Chevy). At 75K miles, I had to pull a head. When I did, the cylinders still had cross-hatching and there was zero ring ridge in the cylinders. All I had ever used in that engine was QS. That sold me on the use of QS permanently.
- Thread starter
- #33
Delvac 15w-40
400k+ miles
No leaks, no smoke, no consumption @ 5k mile intervals
I actually prefer Delo as I put it in everything else I own, but I tend to stick with one brand of oil for the life of the engine.
Since I started with Toyota's conventional 10w-30 (bottled by Exxon/Mobil), I decided to stick with Mobil when i eventually moved to the thicker Delvac 15w-40
All that being said, these engines will probably run on Wesson if it came down to it
Pick a brand and stick with it
400k+ miles
No leaks, no smoke, no consumption @ 5k mile intervals
I actually prefer Delo as I put it in everything else I own, but I tend to stick with one brand of oil for the life of the engine.
Since I started with Toyota's conventional 10w-30 (bottled by Exxon/Mobil), I decided to stick with Mobil when i eventually moved to the thicker Delvac 15w-40
All that being said, these engines will probably run on Wesson if it came down to it
Pick a brand and stick with it
