Line-X options for roof and hood (2 Viewers)

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CycloSteve

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Mar 16, 2009
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Stuck between a rock and a hard place
Finally fed-up with the ever fading hood and roof on my dark-blue Nightshadow Pearl 80.

Going with Line-X as I really don't want to botch either panel doing this myself. Will be keeping my Yakima rail system on top, which means that there are about two-dozen holes in the roof which will need to still be accessible...will see what the folks at Line-X say about that. I don't ever want to worry about fading or corrosion, and this is one way to accomplish that goal. Will see if they can mix a nice dark grey color, something close to the OEM bumper color which goes well with the paint.

With the hood I want to do a center blackout-style, but in the same dark grey color. The paint on the sides of the hood is fine, so would keep that in the dark blue.

What say ye mud, pros, cons, out of my mind?
 
I would really talk to the Line-X shop that will be doing the job about the colors. I did mine and loved it, but with the color matched silver there has been some fading. The shop says Line-X and Dupont have parted ways and that they had problems with grey's in the past, not sure if that resolved after the Dupont break or not.

Ryan,
I just received your email. Im sooo sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. I remember doing your lexus like it was yesterday. i pulled your invoice seeing if the paint code was on there, and it just says custom colormatch. we currently are no longer using the DuPont system, as linex and dupont have parted ways. The best bet to have this fixed is to find a local linex shop, ask them about renewing your liner. the proper steps to do this would include
cleaning the liner,
sanding the liner,
priming the liner,
retexturing it with actual linex
then reapplying the top coat.

We have had problems in the past with silver, and silver like colors not holding up. we have sent in samples to linexcorporate and they cant tell us the problems. i have tried throwing all of my silver materials away and starting over in the past, and had the exact same issues. Without seeing it in person, i cant diagnose the issues associated, but if it were to come back here, the above steps are the steps i would take to ensure its fixed properly. If you have any questions, Please dont hesitate to call me.
THanks!
 
Many Mud members have use Monstaliner and I have never read a negative review. You can tint it any color you like and it is UV stable and much more inexpensive.
Monstaliner has a finished surface that will rinse clean much easier also.
 
One note on the hood. I used raptor liner. I tried tinting the hood a little darker but sort of back fired. The raptor ended up being a little to glossy and reflected worse than the white paint before it.
 
I would really talk to the Line-X shop that will be doing the job about the colors. I did mine and loved it, but with the color matched silver there has been some fading. The shop says Line-X and Dupont have parted ways and that they had problems with grey's in the past, not sure if that resolved after the Dupont break or not.

One note on the hood. I used raptor liner. I tried tinting the hood a little darker but sort of back fired. The raptor ended up being a little to glossy and reflected worse than the white paint before it.

Good points on both parts...I definitely do not want a fading product, nor one which is shiny.

Many Mud members have use Monstaliner and I have never read a negative review. You can tint it any color you like and it is UV stable and much more inexpensive.
Monstaliner has a finished surface that will rinse clean much easier also.

Monstaliner is a great product but is out simply because I want it done professionally. Of the many things I can do on the truck paint and body work are not part of my repertoire.
 
I hope Monstaliner takes no special skills because I'm starting the tear down and prep on mine today and I don't know a damn thing about body work. :confused:
 
I hope Monstaliner takes no special skills because I'm starting the tear down and prep on mine today and I don't know a damn thing about body work. :confused:
It's not hard at all. Just follow the directions for prep and take your time spraying. Get your gun dialed in on a test subject first until you get the desired texture. Prep is the key and make sure you get your tape lines straight and you'll be golden.
 
I shot / prepped Rhino liner (same as line-X) late in college.

To save your holes in the roof I'd suggest running some long bolts with electrical tape wrapped at the base where the threads are, a "redneck gasket" of sorts to survive the spray.

To edge pickup beds/Jeep floorpans, etc - we used to use masking tape folded back on the long way & the other half was where the body paper was - so when we pulled the paper 1/2 the width of the tape was still in there, giving us a guide to run a razor blade on a 45* to make that edge you see on professional shot liner.

The key to a lasting paid-for job is using a shop that has been around 5+ yrs.

The guys who have been around less than ~2 yrs are like taking your car to Macco for paint.

Also, just since my old LX450 was lined on the rockers/flares & hood (heavy shooter, mine was easily 3/16" thick - the hood just was hit on the center hump section & the weight of the liner made for having to buy a fresh pair of shocks for the hood.

Hope some of that helps.
 
Good points on both parts...I definitely do not want a fading product, nor one which is shiny.



Monstaliner is a great product but is out simply because I want it done professionally. Of the many things I can do on the truck paint and body work are not part of my repertoire.

I believe you can spray monstaliner if you read the instructions, so I dont see why you couldnt ask a shop to spray it for you. Just a thought. I did my roof in white, and I love the way it came out. A few spots I should have gone a little thicker, but that was my fault.
 
Better than redneck - I figured out that using some sacrificial bolts with 3/16" heat shrink will do the job of keeping the nutsert threads clean, and allowing for the Line-X to seal around them. The local shop said it would be right around 1/8" thick. May have to go with black though, as the colors are not guaranteed to keep from fading. Will see what the samples look like when I go to the shop on Wednesday. Want to get this done before Turf N Surf.

Linus, any recommendations for prep to be done on my end? I am removing any rust from under the racks, priming the bare metal with self-etching primer. They said that they rough up the paint with an orbital sander before applying.
 
consider treating any rust with rust converter such as Ospho or Navel Jelly prior to priming
 
I have Line-x in the bed of my Tacoma. It's super tough, that's for sure.
 
As a fellow dark blue rig owner, I'd appreciate it if you would post pics of your truck after going black on the roof and hood. I'll probably do the same once my clear coat disintegration reaches critical mass. Thanks!
 
@CycloSteve -
It was the early days of spray-in bed liners, but we had that lifetime garentee so we took truck boxes to clean bare metal on the bed, and 75% or so on the inner sides. It was the "new guy" job to strip beds (crappy job, full PPE if you wanted to go home normal) , we used 4.5" grinders & 60 grit discs - clean metal had enough tooth you didn't want to run a bare hand on it.

Jeep bodies were sent out to a sandblaster who used garnet grit so it was heavy "tooth" to bond the liner.

That said, I saw a Line-X truck tailgate lifting / bubbling the liner & that shop was only about a year here in town - the bed was a buddy's truck & we cut a "x" -window in it to look & it looked like they just used a DA sander.

So I suppose just make sure you are either at or over the tooth required for whatever you use - 100% of the failed premium liners I've seen were caused by not enough prep.
 
I hope Monstaliner takes no special skills because I'm starting the tear down and prep on mine today and I don't know a damn thing about body work. :confused:
Just did mine. I have zero body work skills. I was pumped with how it came out. The one bit of advice is to buy a ton of extra rollers and change them often so you don't get bits of roller stuck in the surface. Spent an hour with tweezers pulling them out and re rolling

IMG_2566.JPG
 
post more pictures of the progress
 
For guys who roll on Monsta-liner, de-linting rollers is semi easy if you use masking (or clear packing)-tape like how you pull dog/cat hair off wool clothes.

I do that when I reload on gear for a can of that Dupli-Color roll-on liner I use on my boat decking / transom deck / trailer tongue where you walk when retrieving your boat. Really have come to love the function of the Duplicolor stuff for traction (but would stay w/ Monstaliner if was doing a body job) Duplicolor version has more traction fibers in it IME.
 

Definitely will ask them what level of cut they want in the material when I bring it into the shop(or what they will be doing on their end).

Related question...keep the four rooftop "bars" or delete prior to the Line-X? I don't really need them, but concerned about properly getting rid of the 8 holes in the roof that would be there after removal. Since the roof will be coated, perhaps not as much of an issue as with paint, but still a potential for failure if not prepped right. Drilling them out and using JB Steelstik is one option, and having someone tig them closed is another.
 

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