Builds Billy's excellent FJ73-12HT - resto-modded - n that (1 Viewer)

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Excellent work and attention to detail, that will be one sweet 73 when all is said and done.
 
Thanks Guys, tedious work but I only want to do this once.
Gave all the hinges a wire wheel, prime and 2pac top coat.
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I am using Zinc plated 12.9 button head socket screws for all the hinges although i would like to use St/St I didn't want to take any chances.
8.8s would have done but my socket screws come this way. Again I used anti-seize or an isolating compound for dissimilar metals on the threads where applicable. I have been involved with boats since I was 15 and being able to undo bolts years later is half the problem solved IMO.
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I received my windscreen surround,rollbar and supports so i set about fitting all the seals I got a while ago.
As usual Mr T out did himself, the rubbers were detailed to accept every profile and radius with little plastic pins and self adhesive strips to help hold everything in place. Sometimes I feel like I'm building a kit car the way it all comes apart for maintenance and goes back together.
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Billy - Where did you get the hardware kit? Is that specific to Land Cruiser? I hope you have help
getting the doors hung. Very nice new pieces. All that came from Amayama?
 
Billy - Where did you get the hardware kit? Is that specific to Land Cruiser? I hope you have help
getting the doors hung. Very nice new pieces. All that came from Amayama?

All the rubber seals came from Amayama, by hardware do you mean nuts,bolts washers? they are not JIS nor from Toyota.

Jon, I noticed in an old thread you were after info on an alternator for a 12HT. Do you have any advice for me I am about to buy one over the next 3-4 days...... wife permitting.
 
I hope, fingers crossed, that my local auto marine electric repair shop has finally corrected as to why my
contacts kept welding on start. So in the end I did not buy a new one. They are expensive, $300 and up.
What I did learn is that the 12V starter for a 12H-T is used on a lot of Toyota forklifts and other industrial
equipment here in Canada. They are available, as this particular model of starter seems to cross over to
other machines. It's 4 am here on the west coast right now. I'll get back to my buddy who
helped me and get back to you.
I'm on the road and don't have all the stuff that I've written down at home.
Curious, did you price it out on Amayama?
 
Curious, did you price it out on Amayama?

Never thought of that! then I checked, and then I checked again.. Megazip - $1729.00 US Amayama - $1239.00 US
There must be less platinum and gold in the Amayama one.
I can get a Bosch one for around $300-$400. Probs go this way when I can get it past the missus. The old "that thing...had it for ages" is starting to wear a bit thin, I think she's onto me.
 
Is your truck 12V or 24V? My 60 which has the 12H-T is converted to 12V. Just easier over here at the time. I'll leave my 13B-T BJ74 at 24V. I did see a 12V starter by Bosch at
OnlineAutoParts.Au for $299.00 that I could swear by the pic is compatible with a 12H-T.
 
No, the whole wiring harness is 12V. The conversion was done before I got the truck.
 
Hello Billyfj7312ht (please get a longer name!),

This is a fantastic report on a lovely build. I love it that you post pictures with write-ups explaining not simply what you did, but your mistakes, and their corrections. This is huge.
Please don't stop, and i hope you don't get discouraged (i must do the same sort of thing in a couple of years). Cheers Big Ears!
 
So then just 12V starter and alternator is all you need. Don't think it will save you any money :(
For sure run dual batteries, is all I can add.
 
Assembling is so satisfying, it makes up for the monotony of clean,sand,prime top coat. Its a pity the later is 2/3rds of the job.

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I ran some polyurethane sealant along the top edge of the steel lip before fitting the windscreen surround rubber seal.
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And now just to make sure I don't get used to all this smiling....some clean,sand,prime,top coat.

Prep - radiator shroud,glove box front,dual battery stand,front hubs and some kick shields from my suspension seats.
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Prepped the radiator shroud then hit it with some rust converter.

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I shall leave the radiator shroud at primer stage because I will have to modify it slightly to make it all work.
Drilled 8mm holes in each corner of the battery stand tray as water had pooled there before and also sealed the gaps which held moisture.
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Made some washer/insulators to go between the stand and the wheel arch out of the old console material.
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My initial intentions were to prep the hubs the same way and paint them black.
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Then the Zinc coating started to shine again. The more time I spent on them the shinier they got......there shined a shiny demon.
Amazing really, 30 years of salt water and road grime, Yoda's plating must be quite thick. i've seen class 3( hot dipped galvanized) threaded rod in houses look worse for wear.
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Sealed it all with a 2pac clear top coat and made sure i ran the paint 2-3mm behind the gasket to help reduce moisture getting under the 2pac.
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Painted the switch with some antique gold touch up from my shop and sealed it with clear 2pc to stop it chipping. The surround is black mat 2pac.
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