1FZ Engine Swap Quickie Question... (1 Viewer)

[Openroad98]

Hey Guys n Gals,

I'm just finishing up the engine swap in my 1994 to a low-mileage 1FZ this weekend after pulling out my original 1FZ. It had 220K and was suffering from major oil leaks and a badly ticking rod bearing from running 4qts low on oil multiple times. (Not me, original dumb owner refused to check his oil and I got it for a song).

Anyway, to make a medium story short...

I pulled the engine without pulling the transmission, and the top two trans-bellhousing to engine block mounting bolts were just a little hellish to remove. I know this is a terrible question to ask, but I have to! Has anyone ever installed the engine with only the lower 10 bolts torqued up and not installed the upper two? It's just the last thing I have to do mechanically, and I have no idea how in the I'm going to get those back in since to remove them I blindly used one hand to guide the socket on while a buddy used 3 extensions and a wobble with an impact gun!

It's ok to flame and tell me "Toyota put em there for a reason", I'm more just venting and hoping I could run it this way as a commuter for awhile. Still a long way from wheeling but it's in my 2-yr plan!

And if someone wants to give a hint on how to get them dang bolts in there, I'm all ears!

Thanks peeps,
Abe in NoCo

File_000.jpeg

File_002.jpeg

 

[slow95z]

Drop the trans, bolt it to the engine, install it all as one package like the book says.

 

[Kfire01]

I think you can remove the shifter boot and access them after lowering the tranny.

 

[jfz80]

Its a PITA but doable for sure. After all the other work i say keep at it. Same way you got them off is how ive helped get them back on. Concretejungle's rebuild in faq may cover it but was just as you described..... with a few choice words

 

[Azca]

Not sure who on MUD had done it this way but will echo what he said. Drop the cross member, lower the trans a few inches and use several long extensions. You will get it together and won't be that bad.

That said, next time pull and install as a unit. Well worth the "extra effort". Well not really, everything is easier the way MR. T did it.

 

[ajax1]

I've done it two different ways depending on how far you have engine in. The easy way is once you have connected the engine to tranny do not put the motor mounts on and lower the engine down to the lowest point this will give you a gap on the tranny you can slip them in I also use a wobble socket for this way, or if motor mounts are in already you have to go blind with extension and wobble socket it takes a little bit but is easily done.

 

[Openroad98]

Okay, thanks to everyone for the encouragement! I will probably lower the trans mount a bit (using a transmission jack to control the drop) and worm the bolts in from the rear. I just wanted some confirmation it COULD be done! Also read Alex's thread (concretejungle) and he did get them in with the trans still in place.

I started pulling the shifter housing and linkages inside the cabin, but didn't see how that would really help. Just need to get those bolts in, cooling flush and fill, and the power steering system bled. Oh, and make sure the engine runs that I swapped in... haven't tried starting it yet!

If anyone wants to see a VERY compressed timelapse of the engine removal and (on the following day) install, have at it below!

 

[Filter]

Is there something I don't know about videos?

All I get is "This video is private."