Crankshaft pulley almost fell off (1 Viewer)

[JamesR]

I installed the belts tonight. I had forgotten the first pulley (closest to the radiator) on the water pump isn't used. To make installation easier, I put the tranny in N (wheels chocked and e brake on) and I used the torque wrench to turn the crankshaft. Turning the pulleys eased the placement of the belts. Tomorrow I'll adjust the tension of the belts. (I don't believe the a/c compressor had an adjustment.)

 

[JamesR]

I took a photo of the old HB. I didn't notice the split the first time I inspected it. The key way slot on the inside wasn't that messed up but that's a nasty split. I'm glad I got a replacement.
Today I reinstalled everything but the skid plate and the fan shroud. I'm going to do the fan shroud mod while it's off. I hope to have the rest of the parts back on and it ready to go next Saturday.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I took a photo of the old HB. I didn't notice the split the first time I inspected it. The key way slot on the inside wasn't that messed up but that's a nasty split. I'm glad I got a replacement.
Today I reinstalled everything but the skid plate and the fan shroud. I'm going to do the fan shroud mod while it's off. I hope to have the rest of the parts back on and it ready to go next Saturday.

View attachment 1336873

Holy canoli! that is crazy! How long was it wobbling before you turned the key off? And is that split lined up along the backside of one edge of the slot? So if thats the case, there is quite a lot of force on that end of the crank shaft...

 

[JamesR]

The split is lined up along the backside of key way slot. Well, that's a challenging question. (How long was it wobbling before I turned the key off?) The nut was off of the shaft for about 3 years. I don't know if during that time the HB slowly worked it way off the shaft or if the HB got to a certain point on the shaft that caused the thing to crack. I was pulling into a parts store, to get a part for my daily driver when I lost my power steering. I popped the hood and noticed the belt was very loose. I went in, bought the part I needed, got in my 60 and cranked it. I heard this awful noise as it cranked and immediately cut it off. Got out again for a closer look and noticed the HB was barely hanging on. I didn't notice the split until I cleaned most of the grease off of the HB. I now have an expensive paper weight. (I might use it to weigh down one of my ham radio dipole antennas.)

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The nut was off of the shaft for about 3 years.

Wha?! How did I miss that? Holy sheet. Okay so this proves my theory that IF my repair goes south, my HB will NOT simply walk off the crank and fly across the street and hit an opposing vehicle (as a welder of 46 years stated to me regarding his liability of taking on my request; he chose to never respond to me after also stating what I wanted him to do was what got his "nut" since most would simply refuse)! Ack! James, wow, amazing, seriously simply amazing. Thank you so much for that info. Seems my intuition is darn good in mechanics, regardless how amateur I am....

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

How was it that you had no nut for 3 years anyway? Did it just go missing and it appeared all okay dokey the times you eyed it?

 

[cruisedeisel]

Hits from the bong.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Hits from the bong.

Kinda doubt that from James... could be I'm wrong but eh, my gut says he's not into the dub.

 

[JamesR]

I found the nut in my backyard about 3 years ago. I thought it was off of my 60. I had a parts 60 at the time and I thought it may have come off of that one. But the nut was powder coated black. That meant it didn't come from the parts truck. I looked all over my 60. But with the "skid" plate in place under the radiator I couldn't see the crank shaft and, honestly, I never thought I needed to. But since I knew that nut came from my 60 I placed it on a shelf thinking, "One day I'll find out where this goes." That day came about 2 months ago.
Never been into the dub.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Gotcha! Sorry you had to rewrite all that, its now come clear again. Skid plate? Really there is supposed to be such a thing there? Interesting!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Hey @JamesR, did you do the oil seal in the timing cover? I got mine out today to replace and what a beotch that was to push out!

 

[JamesR]

Gotcha! Sorry you had to rewrite all that, its now come clear again. Skid plate? Really there is supposed to be such a thing there? Interesting!

I use the term loosely. It's more like a rock shield. I'll take a photo tomorrow.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

use a thin smear of RTV on the TC gasket

I was under the impression that no rtv is is supposed to be used on the cork TC gasket? Could you link me that page in the FSM Spike Strip?

 

[Spike Strip]

Not in FSM. Cork gaskets are generally used dry. In my experience FWIW, cork tends to leak if you use a cheap gasket or cover bolt holes are deformed. When I've used a thin smear of RTV and lightly tightened the cover and let RTV cure over-night (or at least a couple hours) - THEN tightened the cover to recommended torque, I've had no leaks. If you tighten the cover before the RTV has cured, it tends to squish out.

I'm referring to your basic Permatex Black or Grey in the tube. If you use something like Hylomar follow tube directions.


http://www.permatex.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Permatex_GasketMakerSelector.pdf

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Gotcha. Okay, yes I actually had someone else check their book this AM as I did mine and found it wasn't recommended. I am using the cork gasket from SOR and my bolt holes weren't deformed. Thanks.

 

[JamesR]

Okay boys and girls...today I completed the reassembly of the remaining parts, including the fan shroud mod. (I need to add a bolt or two to the shroud so ensure it won't vibrate.) I tried to crank it; the battery wouldn't turn over so I've got a battery charger on it tonight. I had a trickle charger on the battery for the last couple of months. So I thought it would keep the battery "topped off". However, I had the positive battery cable loose so I could lift it up to disconnect the battery each time I worked on it. After each session I'd slide the positive cable back over the post. Since I didn't tighten the battery terminal I guess the connection was solid enough for the trickle charger to actually work. So the saga continues; hopefully ... it'll crank tomorrow.
On a different note... I took a couple of pics of the skid plate/rock guard prior to and after installation. NeverGiveUpYota wanted to see what it looked like. Based on her comment, she may not have one.

 

[Spike Strip]

That's really a splash guard. I leave mine off, but I'm in So Cal where it's not very wet. East Coasters may have different needs.

 

[JamesR]

I knew it wasn't a true skid plate but I wasn't sure of the proper name. Thanks.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Huh, interesting. I could use one! Friggen rain has been a downer the last two days! Thanks for the pix @JamesR! Not sure 100% but I was always under the impression that when working on a vehicle you disconnect the positive as well until a fellow Mideast mudder obliged me a visit and explained that the negative is the more correct cable to disconnect. Something about the way the electricity flows positive to truck to negative to ground... so disconnect negative so you don't become the ground? or maybe that is vice versa.

 

[JamesR]

That's right. It does flow from negative to positive. You are supposed to disconnect the negative. I reread my last post and I disconnected the negative and not the positive.
We sure need rain here. Send some my way.