stronger studs for birfields (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Torque em to 71 ft/lbs. after my recent adventure, I re did all mine and drenched them with lock tite as well.

View attachment 1340048
Are you physically torquing the stud itself into the knuckle at 71ft/lbs? Cuz from that pic, it looks like it. Pretty sure that's the rating for the nut on top of the cone washer, seated into the steering arm, sam'itched onto the knuckle.
 
Are you physically torquing the stud itself into the knuckle at 71ft/lbs? Cuz from that pic, it looks like it. Pretty sure that's the rating for the nut on top of the cone washer, seated into the steering arm, sam'itched onto the knuckle.

That's for the knuckle nuts not the stud. Just showing the lock tite in this picture, if it's even noticeable...
 
That's for the knuckle nuts not the stud. Just showing the lock tite in this picture, if it's even noticeable...
That's what I thought. I was gonna be impressed if you could get a stud alone to that torque. Btw, congrats on that trail-side repair! That's epic on so many levels.
 
80's drive flange vs 79 series Drive flange dowels and studs. Note the increase in size, the flanges are also slightly thicker.
The hub is a 79 series 5 wheel stud and should be similar to a 105 though I cannot verify this.
The last two photos speak to the knuckle studs, note size difference. The knuckle housing is identical except for lack of abs sensor port.
The 79 series offers a thicker birf as compared to our 80's.

Is this worth the effort? Does one now compromise the inner axle?
For me it is the parts availability, and yes the challenge of cross referencing parts.
With this set up we see greaseable steering components like the relay rod but one requires the 79's steering arm, though tie rod ends are interchangeable among almost all LC's.

IMG_2084[2].JPG


IMG_2085[1].JPG


IMG_2088[1].JPG


IMG_2090[1].JPG
 
Yes they fit.
The key is your spindle, spindle is a common application so no problem here.
The hubs differ between 5 wheel lug and our 80's 6 wheel lugs.
That said the 79's are bigger and offer beefier components such as dowels and the drive flange studs, but yes can be made to fit.
Don't forget thicker birf and flange ends, so you need fully plan

Thinking about eventually swapping out the SC'd 80 gasser and tranny for a 1HZ and 5 speed, at this time I will change hubs,birfs, relay rods, knuckles and anything else I can. Essentially a total hub change of all four wheels

Have done some of these mods on my sold HDJ81 and was happy, mind you I did have to machine an 80's hub to accept the 79's dowels, oh and some step studs.
 
Does anyone want to do a group buy for a shipping container filled with 79 series axles from Australia?
 
79's have a shorter inner axle.
You don't get off that easy.
 
I talked to slee today to see if they sell a "up grade" kit or something to ARP studs. They said the OEM are good to go if torqued right. That is good enough for me. unless i hear from some one else i trust more to go to ARP.

But just incase does anyone have the info or part numbers for the ARP studs?
 
Can the 80s swap to a 79 series spindle, hub, drive flange assembly? Just the outer stuff to the 80 balls? Or might have to swap and weld in new balls?
 
Same spindle. 43401-60080
Suits Models FJ80, FZJ105, FZJ78, FZJ79, FZJ80, HDJ80, HZJ105, HZJ78, HZJ79, HZJ80
Inter changeable hubs.
Best to swap front and rear hubs which I haven't tried yet as this makes everything 5 hole rims.
 
Funny how every picture of a truck with sheared studs that I see is always on the passenger side

May have to do with the fact that steering input for both tires goes thru that side, but only the forces for one tire go thru the other arm.
 
Funny how every picture of a truck with sheared studs that I see is always on the passenger side

I've seen three in the same side including mine... Lol.
 
Same spindle. 43401-60080
Suits Models FJ80, FZJ105, FZJ78, FZJ79, FZJ80, HDJ80, HZJ105, HZJ78, HZJ79, HZJ80
Inter changeable hubs.
Best to swap front and rear hubs which I haven't tried yet as this makes everything 5 hole rims.

43401-60081 is actually the correct part number.
 
Funny how every picture of a truck with sheared studs that I see is always on the passenger side
Yes, funny you should say that, I'm helping a friend do a axle rebuild on his truck. When we pulled his steering arm from the passenger side, 2 out of the 4 studs in the knuckle housing were lose, the others were a little more then finger tight. After we cleaned up all the parts, we applied loctite, and torqued* the studs back into the housing at 15 FT pounds.
*We looked for a factory torque spec on the steering arm studs, we could not find one. I use to install 1/2 inch ARP head, and main studs in my shop. ARP listed 15 foot pounds as the torque when installing them. Since the steering arm studs are 12MM, close to 1/2 inch, i thought this was a good match.
 
Last edited:
Birfeilds were done about 30,000 ago. I will probably redo them since i need to repack wheel bearings AND do the studs. But just to consider options, could i just remove the lower trunnion, remove 4 studs and replace with out opening up birfeild?
 
I talked to slee today to see if they sell a "up grade" kit or something to ARP studs. They said the OEM are good to go if torqued right. That is good enough for me. unless i hear from some one else i trust more to go to ARP.

But just incase does anyone have the info or part numbers for the ARP studs?

I agree, all studs and holes should be *clean* and installed *dry* while properly torqued. That's all they need. This is a 3rd world rated vehicle tend to go on forever in other countries without any type of real maintenance.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom