stronger studs for birfields (1 Viewer)

[rc51kid]

What would be my best bet for.making sure that I don't break any studs on my birfields out wheeling? I rebuild my birfields about 40,000 ago with all OEM stuff. I didn't replace any studs. Should I just do another rebuild and put new OEM studs in? Or should I use something like ARB studs?

I am only running 33" but do wheel it kind hard from time to time and I am ussualy out alone in remote areas. I need it to be 100%.

Are new OEM plenty strong?

 

[drowssap]

Would like to hear on this as well before I do my rebuild.

 

[lastresort576]

hub studs right? you can get a kit from low range offroad that includes ARP studs.

 

[izzyandsue]

And a HAM radio if you are remote and alone could be a god idea.

 

[Hornd]

Please clarify what you are calling BIRField Studs?

 

[pilotuku]

I would make sure they're torqued well, and that would keep them from breaking loose.

I'm not sure about the others, but I've got OEM studs and had a few adventures of my own and no issues.

The only mishap I had was a loose knuckle stud that broke them causing a failure. I think even if I had ARP studs at the time they would still snap.

 

[chap79]

I think @rc51kid is referring to the knuckle arm studs.

 

[JohnnyOshow22]

Always check the torque on the steering arms nut/studs and the upper trunion cap. Once they loosen it allows the arm to move back and forth and you shear them. If you check them every day you go wheeling you will not have a problem on 33's

 

[midfat]

I concur with simply checking torque regularly. The purpose of the stud is to clamp. When a stud is properly loaded, it experiences zero shear and just clamps. The two flat surfaces of the knuckle and steering arm, clamped together, carry the shear load. However, when the stud loses load, all of the steering force falls to the stud. This is where it gets nasty. As the stud loosens, the shear moves further toward the end of the stud - like force moving down a lever. The force grows exponentially -- until -- SNAP!. As long as the studs are torqued to spec, you shouldn't have an issues - especially with a 33" tire. That's my take.

 

[inkpot]

I concur with simply checking torque regularly. The purpose of the stud is to clamp. When a stud is properly loaded, it experiences zero shear and just clamps. The two flat surfaces of the knuckle and steering arm, clamped together, carry the shear load. However, when the stud looses load, all of the steering force falls only the stud. This is where it gets nasty. As the stud gets looser, the shear moves further toward the end of the stud - live force moving down a level. The force grows exponentially -- until -- SNAP!. As long as the studs are torqued to spec, you shouldn't have an issues - especially with a 33" tire. That's my take.

Well said. I agree 100%

 

[drowssap]

Ok but back to the original question that he asked....is it wise to replace them at a rebuild and are arp studs stronger than oem?

 

[midfat]

Ok but back to the original question that he asked....is it wise to replace them at a rebuild and are arp studs stronger than oem?

OEM vs ARP? Comes down to cost for me. ARP is expensive, but Toyota Genuine Parts aren't cheap. Both are high quality.

I elected to replace all 8 of mine with OEM studs when I rebuilt my axle. Two had already snapped, so I assumed the two remaining would have been significantly stressed. I was already in for four, so I just did all of them. My rig had 200K at the time or rebuild. If I didn't have any broken studs, I would have reused everything.

 

[TrickyT]

... but Toyota Genuine Parts aren't cheap...

For this application they are. These prices may be a little out of date, but not by much:

knuckle studs, washers, and nuts:
90126-12005 x 8 knuckle stud $1.60 each
94115-71200 x 8 nuts $1.00 each
90201-12019 x 8 plate washers $1.25 each
42323-60020 x 8 cone washers $3.00 each

So for ~$50 you can replace everything and still have the old ones for spares.

 

[Squash]

You need the 79 series studs and dowels and ideally the hubs, though I have run combinations of both on my 80 and 81. The spindles are interchangeable with many series of LC's
Only problem being the hub has 5 wheel studs vs our 6.

 

[pilotuku]

Check yer nutz and torque 'em.

Never be complacent like me! Don't ask how I know.

 

[rc51kid]

Sorry about not being clear. I am talking about the upper and lower trunion studs. I never really thought about the hub studs. I guess those should be considered as well.

 

[Tapage]

Sorry about not being clear. I am talking about the upper and lower trunion studs. I never really thought about the hub studs. I guess those should be considered as well.

Hub studs can survive 33" even locked with no problem for years and years .. if are well serviced ( right torque and install ) and good shape

 

[pilotuku]

Sorry about not being clear. I am talking about the upper and lower trunion studs. I never really thought about the hub studs. I guess those should be considered as well.

Torque em to 71 ft/lbs. after my recent adventure, I re did all mine and drenched them with lock tite as well.

 

[bryanb]

Check yer nutz and torque 'em.

Never be complacent like me! Don't ask how I know.


View attachment 1340009

Totally baseless...

 

[pilotuku]

Totally baseless...

I heard about your adventure too... Ain't it fun?!