EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470 (1 Viewer)

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This bypass kit bypasses the bad EFI relay circuit in the fuse box so that the immobilizer system gets adequate power supply for starting the car. I made this for myself after my new 30A replacement fuse - initial fix for crank but not start problem, failed to start after 4 days. Some members have showed interest in the kit and asked me to sell this kit.

This bypass kit is for you if:
  • You are told a new fuse box 82720-60023 will fix your intermittent starting problem but you don't want to spend $700 just for the part alone
  • You have intermittent starting problem and you replaced the 20A EFI fuse with 30A fuse or paper clip
  • You have intermittent starting problem and you have been tapping or removing/replacing relays and fuses in the fuse box
  • You want to have this kit in your glove compartment in case you run into this crank and non starting problem
The kit is designed to connect to EFI fuse slot. It is 100% plug and play provided there is no damage to the EFI fuse slot. If your EFI fuse slot is melted or damaged, you will need to connect the kit to the battery.

Kit comes with relay, 20 AMP fuse and installation instructions. Fuse holder may not be the same as shown in picture. $135 shipped to 48 states. Please contact me for payment info or shipping cost outside 48 states.

immobilizer_kit2.jpg
 
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I don't know how to PM on this site. Please contact me regarding this. I want one.
 
This bypass kit bypasses the bad EFI relay circuit in the fuse box so that the immobilizer system gets adequate power supply for starting the car. I made this for myself after my new 30A replacement fuse - initial fix for crank but not start problem, failed to start after 4 days. Some members have showed interest in the kit and asked me to sell this kit.

This bypass kit is for you if:
  • You are told a new fuse box 82720-60023 will fix your intermittent starting problem but you don't want to spend $460 just for the part alone
  • You have intermittent starting problem and you replaced the 20A EFI fuse with 30A fuse or paper clip
  • You have intermittent starting problem and you have been tapping or removing/replacing relays and fuses in the fuse box
  • You want to have this kit in your glove compartment in case you run into this crank and non starting problem
This kit is 100% plug and play, no need to splice any wires.

Kit comes with relay, fuse and installation instructions. $79 shipped to 48 states. PM for payment info or shipping cost outside 48 states.

View attachment 1330817
just saw this looks exactly like the ones I've been giving away for 10 yrs
 
just saw this looks exactly like the ones I've been giving away for 10 yrs

Yeah right! Exactly like that and 10 years ago :meh:. Thanks for the free bump and Happy Easter!

Pretty sure I posted the exact fix 2 years ago even made about 8 of them and sent em out for free to those who asked ( all the parts i had) the relay is a $2 part off ebay but it is common to your aux. light light relay most of you use... also the same relay for the tilt trim for my outboard (which is why i had one with me) I build my first one in a parking garage where my wifes lx470 was stuck built with parts and wire in the bottom of my tool bag... yours is much cleaner than my first one...
 
So how does this bypass the "bad" circuit?

You are extending the position of the relay off of the fuse box terminals but the wires are still connected to the fuse box - which is where the bad circuit is.

I also wish this thread were not called "immobilizer fix" since its the EFI relay and not the actual security immobilizer.
 
So how does this bypass the "bad" circuit?

You are extending the position of the relay off of the fuse box terminals but the wires are still connected to the fuse box - which is where the bad circuit is.

I respectfully disagree. The bad circuit is not used to power the relay. It bypasses the bad circuit just fine.

I also wish this thread were not called "immobilizer fix" since its the EFI relay and not the actual security immobilizer.

EWD shows that this is part of the Immobiliser System. To be exact, this thread is not called "immobilizer fix".
 
I respectfully disagree. The bad circuit is not used to power the relay. It bypasses the bad circuit just fine.



EWD shows that this is part of the Immobiliser System. To be exact, this thread is not called "immobilizer fix".

So in your estimation the issue is the power terminal to the relay being the "bad" circuit so thereby swapping to the factory EFI fuse input side you have bypassed the "bad" circuit? You're thinking that the EFI relay itself isn't shorting causing the no start or EFI fuse blowing?

Fair play on the thread naming - the immob is parenthesized.
 
So in your estimation the issue is the power terminal to the relay being the "bad" circuit so thereby swapping to the factory EFI fuse input side you have bypassed the "bad" circuit? You're thinking that the EFI relay itself isn't shorting causing the no start or EFI fuse blowing?

Fair play on the thread naming - the immob is parenthesized.

If your EFI relay is bad, replace it and move on.

If you buy this kit, it will also fix your bad EFI relay problem. Kill two birds with one stone.

If you want to know more about this kit, please search for a thread by me in the 100 series forum.
 
My interest here is good information. By offering a kit you're implying a vetted solution. I know the wiring in the Land Cruiser 100 pretty well (including the EFI) but if you've come up with something that I missed it interests me. I cant see how this solves anything but replacing the EFI relay since it still uses the fusebox connections. What am I missing? If that's it, fine.
 
My interest here is good information. By offering a kit you're implying a vetted solution. I know the wiring in the Land Cruiser 100 pretty well (including the EFI) but if you've come up with something that I missed it interests me. I cant see how this solves anything but replacing the EFI relay since it still uses the fusebox connections. What am I missing? If that's it, fine.

The kit does more than just replacing the EFI relay. As mentioned before the bad circuit is not used to power the relay. Your argument is based on ignoring the fact that the relay is powered from different source. We will not accomplish anything here until you stop insisting the EFI relay is bad and understand that the problematic circuit in the fuse box is bypassed.

I encourage you to read my technical thread in the 100 series forum. All trouble shooting steps are showed in that thread, and I also showed that the EFI relay was not the problem. There is also a member who used my schematic to bypass the bad circuit with factory relay and solved his non-starting problem. Hope this helps!
 
I'm not arguing with you - I'm not sure how asking clarifying questions indicates that. I've seen the other thread.

I think you misunderstood me - I know the fuse box is the culprit.

I mention the relay because that's the component you've "remoted". So in the end powering the relay from the EFI fuse circuit solves the issue because the relay's power terminal is bad. So not a perm fix but definitely could get you down the road.
 
I'm not arguing with you - I'm not sure how asking clarifying questions indicates that. I've seen the other thread.

Funny you asked how. Please see 3 quotes below.

So how does this bypass the "bad" circuit?

You are extending the position of the relay off of the fuse box terminals but the wires are still connected to the fuse box - which is where the bad circuit is.

I also wish this thread were not called "immobilizer fix" since its the EFI relay and not the actual security immobilizer.

So in your estimation the issue is the power terminal to the relay being the "bad" circuit so thereby swapping to the factory EFI fuse input side you have bypassed the "bad" circuit? You're thinking that the EFI relay itself isn't shorting causing the no start or EFI fuse blowing?

Fair play on the thread naming - the immob is parenthesized.

My interest here is good information. By offering a kit you're implying a vetted solution. I know the wiring in the Land Cruiser 100 pretty well (including the EFI) but if you've come up with something that I missed it interests me. I cant see how this solves anything but replacing the EFI relay since it still uses the fusebox connections. What am I missing? If that's it, fine.


I think you misunderstood me - I know the fuse box is the culprit.

All of your posts up to this point so far contradicted with the fact that you know the fuse box is the culprit. All you have been saying is the relay is the issue and my kit does nothing to bypass the bad circuit and it doesn't solve anything. If you know the fuse box is the culprit, then what you have done here are not :cool:.


I mention the relay because that's the component you've "remoted". So in the end powering the relay from the EFI fuse circuit solves the issue because the relay's power terminal is bad. So not a perm fix but definitely could get you down the road.

Do you really have to be this negative? First you said the kit doesn't solve anything, then you said this is not a permanent fix. I am curious to hear from you why you think this is not a permanent fix. Although I never claimed this is a permanent fix, the relay is rated for 100,000 operations at 40A. Assuming it is operated 10 times everyday, the relay is good for 27.4 years. It will probably last longer than 27.4 years since the EFI circuit is 20A-25A, not 40A. I would consider that a permanent fix.
 
Im not going to go point by here. I asked qualifying questions to get to the thinking behind your remote relay, thats it. I specified the root cause in my thinking in my first post. I think you need to reread - I never said your kit didn't solve anything.

Why are you being so sensitive?
 
Im not going to go point by here. I asked qualifying questions to get to the thinking behind your remote relay, thats it. I specified the root cause in my thinking in my first post. I think you need to reread - I never said your kit didn't solve anything.

You are absolutely wrong. Yes, you said the kit doesn't solve anything. Please see the following quote from you.

My interest here is good information. By offering a kit you're implying a vetted solution. I know the wiring in the Land Cruiser 100 pretty well (including the EFI) but if you've come up with something that I missed it interests me. I cant see how this solves anything but replacing the EFI relay since it still uses the fusebox connections. What am I missing? If that's it, fine.


Why are you being so sensitive?

You came here to invalidate my kit and I answered all of your questions but that is still not good enough for you. I am not being sensitive, I am trying to understand your motives. I look forward to your reply on why you are so negative and why you think this is not a permanent fix.
 
You are absolutely wrong. Yes, you said the kit doesn't solve anything. Please see the following quote from you.

You came here to invalidate my kit and I answered all of your questions but that is still not good enough for you. I am not being sensitive, I am trying to understand your motives. I look forward to your reply on why you are so negative and why you think this is not a permanent fix.


I have no need or desire to invalidate your kit - I'm looking to be thorough in its nature. If its a valid fix for part of this issue then I'm all in. Lots of owners come to me for various issues and want advice. If i can send them in a direction or help them directly I do it. Stop thinking I'm picking on you - geez.

At any rate for those still reading, this bypass will get you down the road by changing the EFI relay power source and should avoid the EFI fuse blowing syndrome. I have no concern about doing it this way.
 
I have no need or desire to invalidate your kit - I'm looking to be thorough in its nature. If its a valid fix for part of this issue then I'm all in. Lots of owners come to me for various issues and want advice. If i can send them in a direction or help them directly I do it. Stop thinking I'm picking on you - geez.

It is what you said, not what I think. Spin it anyway you like. After referring you to the technical thread that explains everything on this, you came back with the following comments:
  • I know the wiring in the Land Cruiser 100 pretty well (including the EFI) .....
  • I cant see how this solves anything .....
  • So not a perm fix but definitely could get you down the road

At any rate for those still reading, this bypass will get you down the road by changing the EFI relay power source and should avoid the EFI fuse blowing syndrome. I have no concern about doing it this way.

Thank you.
 

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