Heat mitigation in the cab (2 Viewers)

[sloanstavern]

UPDATE 4-30-12 #1

I bought some 2” X 15 Lava wrap and tried it on the manifold and on the exhaust pipe. It was almost impossible to wrap the manifold, but it did lower the temp from 500-550 to ~ 450F range. Truth is I do not not think that would translate to driver comfort and it certainly would be hard to keep in place and clean.

On the Exhaust pipe it was interesting. Before the wrap the pipe was very hot 450F right at exit of manifold and drops to 200-225 F at the turn back 14 inches later. With the wrap the high spot is only 350F, but downstream the temp goes up to close to 300F. Basically just averages the temp out over the whole length. I did not expect that. After a much longer drive, the pipe right below drivers feet was >300F with the wrap, whereas before it would be in the 180-200F range.

Results – Lava wrap type stuff not worth the risk of rust and mess.

 

[sloanstavern]

Update 4-30-12 #2

I made Kraft paper templates of each floor, passenger and driver stretching from the firewall as far back as I could:
Driver – to the step up
Passenger to the gas tank
Cut some insulation (same as used above on the firewall) and set in place. The weight and flexibility of the material made it form very nicely to the contours and it fit nice and snug.

I also cut one large rectangle for the rear compartment and covered with some rugs for the time being. I did not have the marine carpet I needed to finish the job but wanted a quick test drive, so I put some small carpet remnants on and took a test drive.

WOW

Biggest difference yet. The sound deadening was fantastic and the temp was dramatically cooler. Whereas the hot spots on the driver floor was 110 – 140F, now it is is 80-90F. that was with no floor vent open, and I suspect much of that temp was just normal air temp since it was a warm late spring morning in Phoenix.

Now I will get some marine carpet for the top, some upholsters polyester mesh for the bottom, and some binding stripes for the edge and make an insulation sandwich. Then The tranny hump is next.

I will be putting together table listing each project and the relative results so you can see at a glance how they all fared.

 

[Rockets2000]

I put some dynamat down across the floorboards and hump. It helped a bit (qualified measurement). I did not have enough to do the vertical part of the firewall, but I think now I'll get some more and finish it off. I couldn't use the insulation you used because I regularly fill the cab with mud. The dynamat is stuck for good, but it has held up so far. I also have a heavy rubber floor mat to protect it.

 

[willyfj40]

I like your idea for the insulated floor mats, especially the fact that they are removable. I was thinking about lining my floor with dynamat, I like your idea a lot better.
Mike
1975 fj40

 

[jmdaniel]

I like your idea for the insulated floor mats, especially the fact that they are removable. I was thinking about lining my floor with dynamat, I like your idea a lot better.
Mike
1975 fj40

Like this?

 

[crimsonaudio]

Hey jmdaniel, what mats are those?

 

[jmdaniel]

I made them, out of felt lined heat reflective material on one side, and automotive carpeting on the other, held together with 3M adhesive, and the edges bound with binding tape.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/570686-floormats-bedliner.html#post7434612

 

[crimsonaudio]

I made them, out of felt lined heat reflective material on one side, and automotive carpeting on the other, held together with 3M adhesive, and the edges bound with binding tape.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/570686-floormats-bedliner.html#post7434612

Dude, that's brilliant! Thanks, I've got another project on the list.

 

[jmdaniel]

If you can find someone in your area that will bind the edges for you, do that. I couldn't here in Austin, so instead used Instabind edging tape, which worked pretty good.

Instabind - Carpet Binding Tape

 

[crimsonaudio]

Will do, thanks for the advice.

 

[Trollhole]

My solution to the heat issues back in the day. It worked really well as my shoes didn't melt anymore. Though my improved version used no top and sandals. It works really well.

 

[jmdaniel]

That looks like a magic carpet ride!

 

[Michael Hanson]

Looking nice. Have you insulated your fiberglass top and with what? My dimpled 1/8 pad does very little. MIke

 

[sloanstavern]

Nice work X2

Regarding roof, I pulled it all apart, patched some cracks and on the inside, laid some new FG mat and resin. Then I coated with that white latex mobil home roof goo ( got a gallon at walmart for $18). This dampens the sound a lot.
Then I lined it with marine grade carpet -charcoal.

So far looks and sounds great and much better on heat.

I like the OEM look, but in AZ with all the sun, it is so blasted bright in there the darker carpet makes it easier on the eyes.

 

[scoutin cruiser]

Has anyone tried the Dynadeck? Website says it is a carpet replacement that doesn't absorb water. It actually has a decent look to it IMHO. If anyone has, what's the price? Less heat and noise would definitely be an improvement I'm interested in.

 

[TrickyToy]

Update 4-30-12 #2

I made Kraft paper templates of each floor, passenger and driver stretching from the firewall as far back as I could:
Driver – to the step up
Passenger to the gas tank
Cut some insulation (same as used above on the firewall) and set in place. The weight and flexibility of the material made it form very nicely to the contours and it fit nice and snug.

I also cut one large rectangle for the rear compartment and covered with some rugs for the time being. I did not have the marine carpet I needed to finish the job but wanted a quick test drive, so I put some small carpet remnants on and took a test drive.

WOW

Biggest difference yet. The sound deadening was fantastic and the temp was dramatically cooler. Whereas the hot spots on the driver floor was 110 – 140F, now it is is 80-90F. that was with no floor vent open, and I suspect much of that temp was just normal air temp since it was a warm late spring morning in Phoenix.

Now I will get some marine carpet for the top, some upholsters polyester mesh for the bottom, and some binding stripes for the edge and make an insulation sandwich. Then The tranny hump is next.

I will be putting together table listing each project and the relative results so you can see at a glance how they all fared.

A couple questions....
Where are you getting the stuff at?
Are you using some kind of adhesive?
How did you get it it stick and stay in place on the firewall?

Thanks for any info.

 

[DSRTRDR]

thanks for the report on the exhaust wrapping - not gonna do it now

Cut some insulation (same as used above on the firewall) and set in place. The weight and flexibility of the material made it form very nicely to the contours and it fit nice and snug.

yes, it cuts down on noise as well - I also used the Dynamat

How did you get it it stick and stay in place on the firewall?

I used double-sided tape - it sticks better to the silver side, though, so I put the silver side down, matting up - covered everything with another layer of carpet

for carpet, I used these types of mats Enviroback Charcoal 60 in. x 36 in. Recycled Rubber/Thermoplastic Rib Door Mat-60-443-1902-30000500 at The Home Depot

I am planning to make patterns for MUD members who want to use them when I do my transmission swap

 

[sloanstavern]

A couple questions....
Where are you getting the stuff at?
Are you using some kind of adhesive?
How did you get it it stick and stay in place on the firewall?

Thanks for any info.

Morning,
I got the double foil lined insulation from Summit racing ( part no earlier in the thread).
2 boxes will be more than enough to do the entire FJ40. One will do the firewall and front floors and tranny hump with ease.

I did not glue to the fire wall, instead, I placed behind the heater and other stuff then bolted them back in place. So far it is holding up great and no movement.

In general I did not want to glue anything to the rigg in the event it has to be repalced or repaired and that logic seems to be working. The floor mats are sufficiently heavy and flexable that they lay and form nicely .

I go the carprt and backing from a funky little local shop Tempe Sales, it is just marine grade carpet $15 / yard ( 36X60). 2 yards will just do the front floors, tranny hump and cargo floor only, not wheel wells......if you plan your work and cut carefully.

Good luck.

 

[akeyzoo]

Subscribed...

I recently finished my restoration...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/459720-moment-truth-coming-near-paint-5.html

and I was surprised how hot my floorboards got on my recent inaugural off road trip. My thought was to create a heat sheild like you did between the body and the exhaust. I restored my FJ back to original, so wouldn't want to do anything that would alter the look of the painted metal interior (that I love), but do need relief. The heat that I notice is on the floorboard below the exhaust. As I progress through my project I will take pics, steal the ideas here, and take measurements with my IR gun.

Chris

 

[CHAS404]

This is a great thread. I am finding that heat indeed is the worst enemy of the drivability of these trucks especially in summer time in Florida. I have done several trucks and some with the passenger side AC unit and also the vintage air style 4 vent unit (by the way I like the AC units from nostalgicac.com out of Ocala, FL). they have a slimline ac 4 vent unit that works well for a client I have in Arizona. My next approach though is to do what you are doing and figure really how to insulate the floors and also that heat shield idea.

most of my clients want to see the shiny floors so we are limited there. we do the insulation under the mats already like here. I really want to do something much more effective. I dont have a photo but the FJ73s run much cooler due to plastic dash and factory ac but also they have a floating bubble type insulation under the same heavy mat we use but also plastic thresholds along the door and rear door openings. I drove a 1986 FJ73 in Florida summer last year and even with soft top is was not that uncomfortable.

There has to be a comprehensive approach like the poster is doing... meaning heatshield on the exhaust, insulation firewall, thresholds, heavy mat. I am going to look into better compressors and evaporators too.

This is a losing battler on a 40 but even a 25% improvement if it did not cost too much would be a welcome improvement.