Idler & Tensioner Pulley Bearings, Drive belt (AKA Serpentine or fan belt) (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Hey guy's anyone found a good source for the bearing of the: drive belt Idler Pulley part # 16604-0F010.

The Bearing in it is a NSK BD20-15DUL:

Edited 9/24/2019

Is a drive belt pulley bad:
Sound is first alter bearing of pulley(s) may be going bad. To make sure which are bad remove the belt and spin the pulley(s) If they free spin they're at minimum on the way out. And sound a they are bad.


Idler pulley:
After years of looking, no reasonably priced bearing was found for the idler pulley that is same depth size. We've used a few different aftermarket bearings with spacer or pulleys assemblies which also had spacer to make up depth. Some even pull bearing seal off and repacked the grease within (I've not tried that one). I actually did find a source for just bearing. But required buying, by the case, with high shipping cost. I've gone back to just using OEM idler pulley assembly. It is fast, easy and last the longest.

To replace either pulley. Simple use a 14mm socket with 1/2 ratchet wrench or breaker bar. Turn the left hand thread of tensioner pulley bolt counter clock wise (CCW), which tighten the bolt. This releases the spring loaded tension off the belt. With belt now off the idler and or tensioner pulley, remove its pulley with same 14mm socket. The idler is a normal right hand thread. I use 29ft-lbf when installing idler bolt and 24ft-lbf on tensioner. The one mistake I see is during installing the pulley(s), is installed backwards. Open side of pulley's goes to the back. If reversed, the pulley will bind. If pulley not centered as bolt tightened, it may also bind.

BTW: Drive belt routing, is mapped on a sticker affixed to underside of hood.

Tensioner pulley:
With tensioner pulley I just replace the bearing, it's cheap and easy. Unless the tensioner has lost it's springs tension. A new OEM tensioner has a lot of pull back tension to keep drive belt tight. So much tension, it will hurt fingers if they get between ratchet wrench and fan clutch. A very bad tensioner may need pulling back into place, or has it has very little pullback tension. I like to replace the tensioner assembly during a timing belt or fan bracket job. That way, it does not add to labor/time of job.

But when tensioner is good. I just press out and in a new bearing. I like the NAPA 6203-2RSJ bearing the best of ones I've used. Seems to last a long time. It so easy to do, that even with labor, it save $ over buying new OEM pulley. The OEM tensioner assembly is only a few dollars more than just the tensioner pulley alone. So if going with new OEM, it's best to just buy the whole assembly.

Here is a tension bearing job I did for a local mud membe, while servicing his Land Cruiser for him. See posting starting on #8 post for pictures and videos in this link Coolant leak at water inlet and.. for more in-depth info on replacing tensioner pulley bearing.

Here a teaser video, which you'll find more info in the link "Coolant leak..." provided in last sentence..

I have a socket that will fit perfectly just around outer race (edge) of bearing while pressing in. Gives my finger more room. It also insure I do not press on center race of bearing, which would damage bearing.

 

[hankinid]

This from the Club Lexus board...

Top idler pully bearing: 6301. This is the very top pulley on the belt system, about 3 inches diameter:

For Shaft Diameter 12 mm
Outside Diameter 37 mm
Width 12 mm
Torque on bolt: 27 ft lb
McMaster-Carr part number: 5972K86
Cost: $7.80
See: http://www.mcmaster.com/

I'm not sure if MMC sells cheap Asian bearings, but dimensions should let you pick a Timken, SKF, etc. of decent quality. If you can find a local bearing store that can press the new one onto the pulley, so much the better.

Steve

 

[2001LC]

This from the Club Lexus board...

Top idler pully bearing: 6301. This is the very top pulley on the belt system, about 3 inches diameter:

For Shaft Diameter 12 mm
Outside Diameter 37 mm
Width 12 mm
Torque on bolt: 27 ft lb
McMaster-Carr part number: 5972K86
Cost: $7.80
See: http://www.mcmaster.com/

I'm not sure if MMC sells cheap Asian bearings, but dimensions should let you pick a Timken, SKF, etc. of decent quality. If you can find a local bearing store that can press the new one onto the pulley, so much the better.

Steve

Not sure if that the one is same as I'm looking at for idler (not tensioner). I get width of 15mm (from front to back side of bearing).

Can you link me to the Club Lexus board page?

I pounded on the bearing to get out so not sure if recess on front and protrusion on rear is as new OEM would be. I actually measure 15.5mm width, with protrusion.

 

[hankinid]

Not sure if that the one is same as I'm looking at for idler (not tensioner). I get width of 15mm (from front to back side of bearing).

Can you link me to the Club Lexus board page?

Sure...I just googled NSK BD20-15DUL. The first hit takes you to http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls400/387403-bearings-replaced-for-serp-tensioner-and-idler-pulleys-part-numbers.html
it's the first post. Poster notes same 12mm width for both the idler and the tensioner bearings.

Which is why I think it's a good idea to take the part with the bearing to a shop that does this stuff all-day everyday.

Steve
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...tensioner-and-idler-pulleys-part-numbers.html

 

[2001LC]

I see (on second page on link) the bearing failed after 20,000 miles. Could have been bad bearing or wrong size. I contacted NSk, they gave me local rep. Best was $30 plus shipping & Tax.

My OEM pulley/bearing assemble is failing has a tick sound that can be heard with mechanics stethoscope, but hasn't failed. Whereas my NAPA tensioner replacement bearing is quite, after 50K miles. So not sold on NSK, hoping to find replacement.

 

[APKhaos]

6301 is a standard bearing used in thousands of applications. All the 'name' bearing companies make them, but the Japanese bearings are generally just as good [or better].

 

[BamaHeel]

I contacted the place that makes the actual bearing a few months ago and found out it costs about $45 for the actual replacement. The bearing listed on the clublexus website is not the same as it is a single row of ball bearings and the stock one is two rows of ball bearings. There is actually a bushing in the center of the stock one you would have to press out and into the new one if you went with the actual replacement part.

The similarly sized single row bearing listed on the clublexus website is not as wide as the factory bearing.

 

[BamaHeel]

Here's the double row I'm talking about. You can see where I broke out the plastic spacers on one side of the shielded ball bearings allows you to see the second row of ball bearings. Mine was screaming when I replaced the entire pulley with bearing included.

 

[white_lx]

I've been able to carefully remove the shield with a dental pick and re-pack the bearing with synthetic grease. Only works if it is not too late and bearing has developed play. Solved my whining issue.

 

[apdxyk]

The bearing may be the same, but the high temp grease is what you want there. When it is an automotive application, it has high temp grease there by default. Generic bearing has a generic grease..

I have to go through this quite a bit with other vehicles in my commercial fleet, and here are few reference points from my research:

[different vehicles, 203 or 6203 bearing]

http://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...ch-41/idler-pulley-bearing-replacement-75195/

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1946575

 

[2001LC]

Has anybody sourced the idler bearing yet?

Anyone know what is the correct torque for tensioner bearing bolt?

I pick up the tensioner bearing from Advanced Auto ~$7 (National #203-FF). Is exact size as OE from factory. I could not find the torque for the tensioner bearing bolt, so I just used 27 ft-lb, like what's spec for the idler.

 

[2001LC]

bump

 

[apdxyk]

Still looking, but not too hard. It's not a matter of savings for me, yet a matter of fun. At least, at this stage of my life. Thank you for keeping this thread going.

Here is a Timken 203FF made in USA

I haven't tried it, as it says 'single row design'. Some folks confuse this and the number of sealed sides as well.

Here is an example of a mislabeled one with a seal business confusion

A number of catalogs here

I have added the dimensions to the above search string, and all I got were some really high end aviation grade bearings. Some info we have at hand may be incorrect after all. An interesting hunt, especially given the fact that OEM lasts close to 200k miles in my highway application

 

[2001LC]

I 'd found the OEM bearing years ago, but time and cost was not inline with my needs at the time. I did this by contacting the USA rep for NSK. A group buy or one of our venders on mud may make senses.

Also, it's possible to press out the center bushing and reuse. Then one could broaden the search to include a 20mm bore.

OEM for idler is:
NSK BD20-15DUL
12Bore X 15width X 37Dia MM.
20 bore center bushing remove

 

[apdxyk]

I 'd found the OEM bearing years ago, but time and cost was not inline with my needs at the time. I did this by contacting the USA rep for NSK..

Thank you, I saw this reference on a Tundra board to NSK part at McMaster as well, but they claim it's a cross, not a direct replacement. I shall try to get a few crosses and see what really is fitting 100%, if any at all, but it will take me a while.

Also, this isn't good news

 

[2001LC]

That 6103 is at NAPA as well. But it will not last from what I've read, it will burn up in ~20K miles.

 

[2001LC]

Posted info on a Rock Auto (RA) idler I bought here: Serpentine Belt and Gear that has the 6203RS bearing in it.
It is pictured at RA as OEM, but is not. I may give it a try, haven't decided yet.

 

[apdxyk]

Found this on a Ukrainian site: clearly a double row

 

[2001LC]

That looks like it @apdxyk, without our center bushing. How do we order??????????

 

[apdxyk]

No luck so far. the data and part number may have been deprecated.
If you run a search on this string: buy BD20-15 bearing - you may find quite a few interesting threads, including one by Yamaha/Ford SHO folks, who broke their collective heads against this wall. Including some outlandish suggestion like getting the next one in size on the outer diameter and machining the pulley (and the discussion of the pulley metallurgy ensued, of course). My main concern is not the price, I am wondering as to whether the new Toyota replacement part is as good as the factory original. We all know, that regardless of the brand, the aftermarket part may be 'different' in durability. Simply trying to be proactive for my 180k mile surgery. So far, the original pulleys have been flawless. Will the replacement be as good for the next 180k mile is the question, and I am willing to spend more than the whole replacement pulley costs, if the bearing solution is of the same quality as original.

Also, found this one. Except for marketing claims, nothing telling me it's a double row one. Although, German metallurgy and 'superior' grease may work, if any of their claims are true. But.. materials and QA is one things, and design is another. Febest is a young company, founded in 1999. An interesting hunt..

This discussion makes me skeptical with regards to Febest; user Trav is a tech with dual experience - USA and DE