Recent content by TimberWolf

Do you get any blue smoke from the tail pipe? if it smokes a little at start up and then quits, its probably just bad valve seals, which are MUCH cheaper than getting a new engine. My FJ40 leaked a quart a week when i first bought it.. replaced some seals and it was good to go.

Yup, same symptoms as what i just was dealing with... including the tranny light. my Toyota Reman Alternator was about $180.

Problem solved!... i think... Cylinder # 2 didnt change anything when i unhooked the plug wire. did a compression check and all cylinders are still around 160... busted out the stethacope again, and injector # 2 is ticking still but is VERY faint compared to the others. i think i nailed it...

done a bit more work on it now.. pulled the distributor cap and that little spring loaded button thing in the middle that contacts the rotor was GONE, and the plastic around it was all charred and melted, along with the contact point on the rotor. I'm thinking that its a wonderful thing to be...

Damn! thats not a bad offer!

hmmm, sounds like it would be worth a shot, i have multiple peices of junk that im trying to keep running, so perhaps i should bust some out! I used a stethascope on the injectors on the right and they "sound" as if they are working without a hitch, however checking those ones under the...

i aquired some thrid row seats out of a Lexus LX470 once, worked on it for awhile trying to fabricate a way to install them into my 62... ended up that they were WAY too big, but i still look at options every so often..

Alright, so i've got an 89' 4Runner 3.0 with about 273,000 on the clock, been in the family since new and have had pretty much zero problems with it... two days ago, amoungst the sub-zero Colorado temperatures and snowstorms it suddenly felt like it lost power. the engine shakes the bejesus...

you mean the headlight control switch on the left stalk that also controls the brights and the turn signals? should be part # 84310-60700 for yours, should run around $80.

Try smacking the motor with your hand with some force while the switch is on, no joke. Just like Wyomingben said, it could be the brushes and the motor may just be sitting in a position where its cant spool up on its own... i have this issue on my 4Runner.. even went so far when i first...

silicone lubricant works wonders on locks, its clean and doesnt attact dirt, so you don't have to worry about it fouling it up later. i used graphite on my 62's door locks for years and they always made grinding sounds and were sticky, shot a spray of silicone lube into them several years ago...

Sorry for digging up an old thread, but did you ever find what the culprit on this was? MY 62 just had an alternator die, and when i replaced it i am all of a sudden having the exact same issue... i've taken it to get tested and they say it's okay, but i would beleive my truck over that that...

I'm sure that it goes on, Man-a-fre has pictures of FJ62 cases mounted to H55s it on thier website.,i'll have to do more research on this to see how it all fits together... i don't imagine it would be rocket science, probably just a few minor modifications... I just figure that if i could just...

Hell yeah! thats answers it! thanks!

I know the differences in 60 and 62's, what im asking is can the FJ62 transfercase be used in an H55F 5-speed swap with the same late model 60 driveshafts? For example: if i pull a Transfer case from the rear of an 87 FJ60, and pull mine from my 89 FJ62, will they be the same length? I was...