Recent content by Steve C

OEM: T416 Toyota DCC23754 Dune Beige

Ditto all the above. Plus remember that when initially tacking, you will need to start on side of the joint and end on the other. and you need to secure the metal very securly while tacking so that it dosn't suck in the gap due to thermal "de-expansion" while cooling. An interesting...

Having sandblasted my own fj40 at a cost of about 3,000 usd (including compressor, blaster, respirator), I would say that if you can find someone willing to do it and the price is not astronimical, I would just pay the money, and be done with it. Of all my "do it yourself" type experiences...

Useless without pics

have you tried partially blocking the exhaust pipe (a soft soled shoe pressed onto the pipe by someone sitting on the ground will work) and listening? This should make the leak more noticable.

Ok, let me put on my ex tire changer hat. First, plugs are more for punctures than tears because the rubber of the tire has to squeeze the plug a little. Step 1, put some glue on the tool pictured on the right by Mr. Norcaldoug and insert that into the hole and twist it around some...

Looks good. I also have one of their plasma cutters that I only use every once in a while. Thermal arc, while not as popular as miller, is definately not a no name machine. Since the dealer has it all set up, I would try to test it out on each of the different materials and weld joints...

I've got a water separator, then IR coalescing filter then regulator all at the outlet of the tank. I think that the trick for water filters is that the air must be cool for them to work. Coming out of the pump, the water is in vapor form. If it stays in the tank for a while, it will cool...

I think that the problem with ridgid pvc used for plumbing is that if it cracks it will tend to shatter from the pressure of the gas. Like alot of things, just because it is commonly done dosn't mean that there are not unnecessesary risks involved. Here's a flexible PVC air hose, and the...

http://www.cresline.com/pdf/cresline/productapplication&techdata/bulletinpa1.pdf

PVC and air jsut don't mix. http://www.osha.gov/dts/hib/hib_data/hib19880520.html https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=14880&highlight=pvc+air

How much money do you want to spend? Do you have tools (welder, compressor cuters grinders paint spray, etc) How much space do you have to work on it? Any backup vehicle? It's easy to say to "give it a try", but without the resources it will be tough. One thing to remember though about...

here's some mig wire for about 30 dollars: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?xi=xi&ItemId=1613564463&ccitem= As far as back gassing the weld, I worry about alot of different things, but the internal appearance of my exhaust pipes is not one of them. Especially...

I have bosch with bosch blades, bought it years ago and whatever it cost, it was worth it. But the el cheapo with good blades may be ok also. any jig saw with the cheap blades will not be much fun.

I am certainly no expert with oxyacetylene (or even competent), but my feeling is that for almost everything you would want to weld, there are generally more suitable welding methods. For 1/8" and up, and crash repair, mig is cheap, easy and fast. For thin material, and metals other than...