Recent content by Silver City Cruiser

They can be pretty stuck...use a pry bar and hold the cover on the ground while you or a helper pry it out.

Yes that is correct. The screw-cover is staked at the end of the blade slot to help hold it. The screw tapered area underneath also has sealant on it. I use new updated screws from Toyota that are Torx drive instead if the slotted type. It's just easier to torque them.

Dont use a aftermarket intermediate plate gasket if it does still leak. The Factory one is pre-coated and is superior to the aftermarket. Bill

Those should be ok...use OE parts if you can. They still are available. The only time I go aftermarket is when OE is discontinued. Make sure you put some grease on the back side of the seal as well as the contact area. The seal is a tight fit and the grease will help hold the coil spring in...

Well I was hoping that you had not taken it apart before you cleaned it. It wont leak with the engine turned off...It has been apart before as the three screws were staked in a different position on the timing plate. It looks like the crank seal was leaking. The oil pan reseal job looks...

If the float level in the window is in the middle it's fine. Do the egr cycle and disable. Another rare possibility is a slightly stuck open secondary throttle plate. Bill

Well that clears things up a bit. So normal level...whew.

If you follow the fsm to the letter it wont leak. Use care and keep track of the bolts in order on the cover they are different lengths and it WILL leak if you dont put them back in the right spot. Also did you make sure it IS the inner plate gasket leaking. Sure would be easier if it was just...

Oh and get some aeroquip fire sleve for the lines--- aircraft spruce and specialty company has a great selection

I agree with Byron. You now have less room for expansion in the vapor system. Fuel may just flow through that pitchfork tee if the tank is full and it's hot with expansion. The expansion tank allows for a full tank to expand without contaminating the canister.Do you still have a charcoal...

Oh ok . Perhaps a new needle and seat and a air horn gasket is in order. Still I think the intermittent stalling and only running with the choke out is egr..I have seen this probably 100 times. Perhaps you should send the carb to Trollhole and get them to freshen it up if it's not something...

Yes do this with the engine off. If you apply vacuum to the egr with it running it will stall. Sort the fuel level first ,once that is stable at idle (or even just cranking) proceed to the egr test.

I though you had the carb all rebuilt...set the float level correctly first.

Hook a small vacuum hose to the egr and apply vacuum( suck on the hose )to cycle the egr and it may clear the valve. Apply vacuum and release quickly to let the pintle slam shut. Do this 10 times and try to restart..Bill

The easiest way to check is just pull the hose off the egr and plug it. Please just do this for testing only. Make sure you do this when the vehicle is idling normally and not during the stalling issue. Drive the vehicle for a few days and see if the problem returns. The EGR cooler gets filled...