Recent content by scoba

The sealed area is created by pistons cylindrical side, rubber seal and the seal groove in the calliper if one of them is damaged it will leak.

When you remove preload nut is there just one bearing race under a thrust needle bearing so the shaft flange serves as the other side bearing race? I just disassembled mine and it's weird that the other needle bearing on the shaft has two races washers. Roman

Any updates on your rebuild?

The motor is already out and half apart, inspect everything.

Great job. Nice light bar placement.

80

The first one is a real IH8mud picture

Had to replace front left wheel bearings. They were due to be replaced 100000 km back when I got the truck. But I ended up stretching it for a bit longer. They were KOYO made, really impressed with the performance. Installed TIMKEN in a good shape salvaged from my other 80 as a temp. solution.

Happy birthday!

There is nothing to do with threads. the heat will expand metal and move head of the bolt away from the pulley which will make cracking it easy.

Propane torch would not overheat your bolt. Apply heat for a minute or so from approximately opposite sides of the bolt head.

The engine oil pressure is too impressive for the fully warmed up engine.

Heat up the bolt with propane torch (yellow bottle) direct the flame on to the head of the bolt perpendicular to it not towards the pulley so you do not damage the rubber, should be going easy after that. It worked for me.

Search the posts, there is a few with similar symptoms. I have a “leaky” filler neck around the bend under the body. I live in Canada and vehicle is pure Canadian, so sault did it job pretty well. It does not leak all the time it even holds the vacuum in the tank but when I overfilled once- it...