Recent content by Scamper

So I have a 2014 RAV4 and the AWD light is lit and can't be turned off. This is the first time I've seen it do this. I'm not getting a CEL with it (which according to other articles I've seen means your gas cap is loose), and I've checked the gas cap. I've tried to toggle the switch that turns...

Mine runs at about 1400F when under significant load and 75mph. At lower speeds and load, typically around 1100-1200F.

While I'm not 100% certain about this, I'm pretty sure the OEM nuts for the O2 sensors are a type of deformed lock nut. Just putting a regular nut on them is going to risk having them back off, resulting in a potential sensor blowout. BTDT...

Fear not Sun...mine is flaking too. I suspect they can handle just so much heat over the years (plus living in the NE, just about anything will start to deteriorate over time). I figure if/when I have to get it rebuilt by Eaton, they'll give it a new coat of paint and I can start all over again :D

When you removed the two (?) harnesses, did you find a wire going up into the tail light? If the PO had a trailer with surge brakes, he may have wired the reverse light to his surge brake wire and this may be loose or shorting on something.

I didn't weld mine in...just used the same type of clamp that EMS sends with the kit. Makes swapping easy.

I installed a Vibrant resonator in the same spot as you and it helped quite a bit. But since you have two resonators that you've already bought, and you have to cut the pipe to install either of them, why not just try them both and keep the one you like best?

Sounds like you're experiencing what I did a while back. The problem with mine was fuel related, but I don't know exactly what it was. I took it to the dealer to fix after checking out all the relays and testing the FP and FPR, resistor, etc. which all checked out fine. But when I turned the...

Even after lubing it up, it's still tight. I've not noticed it moving any. Once you fit the sides in, you pop the top edge of the runner in which pretty much keeps things in place. I didn't have rattling, so can't address that question. I think my problem was a cruiser-eating car wash :mad:

I haven't done the fronts, so I don't know if they're any different, but I just recently did one of the rear runners. It was pretty easy. First, you simply pull out the old runner. You don't even have to pull the door panel off to do that. Second, you'll want to lube up the new runner--you...

Wish I could help you. I had the exact same problem last year. Dealer had the truck three times (had it towed each time) over the summer, for weeks at a time. At one point they told me it was the ECM, but after replacing it, they found that was not the problem. The basic problem was that the FP...

The nuts are deformed nuts, not just every-day nuts. A number of us have had the unpleasant experience of loosing a sensor when the nuts backed out and sent the sensor flying. :eek: The deformed nuts prevent them from loosening up.

I put on the EMS and found the sound to be too noisy for my likes. I ended up adding a resonator (SS) at the very end in pretty much the same location as the OEM, and it sounds much better, though still a bit louder than OEM.

On my '97 the code is UCAA3 for duPont Chromabase. You have to shoot clear coat over that and you'll waNt to use a flex agent in the paint as you are going over plastic. I found this a perfect match.

This what you need?