Recent content by PressOn

On warm days we get pine tree sap drippings. I've found isopropyl alcohol works well for that stuff even after its hardened, old and crusty. On a related note, the HEET fuel additive used to dry out gas has isopropyl in it. Jeff

Sorry, I'm all set for reading rpms. Thank you for the offer though. Jeff

My rig is almost complete so not much is needed (for now). The only project I foresee is a turbo charger. Do you have a manifold and turbo for the 3B laying around? I'd be willing the work something out with that trade. Jeff

Left hand drive rig on the steering box. I'm not sure if they made the mounting brackets left or right. Jeff

Not too bad as long as the rig is moving. Its those tight slow turns through boulders that provide the work out. By habit, I now keep my thumbs on the outside of the wheel just in case I'm over powered. Ouch. Jeff

For sale are most of the parts needed to upgrade your 3B mechanical steering to hydraulic. Power steering pump, bracket, and pulley Crankshaft pulley Water pump, gasket, and pulley Power steering belt Alternator belt Power steering belt tensioner Thermostat housing and gasket...

Does the noise change when in two wheel drive versus 4WD? Just curious because at speeds > 40mph in 4WD I get a high frequency hum (not real loud but rpm related) from the front differential area. In my case, gear lubs look fine but I need to look into it further. Definately post in the...

Gentlemen, Thank you for the PM's. I am now have everything to complete my power steering project this winter. Jeff

If anyone has a 3B crankshaft pulley used with power steering (and fan if available) I'd be willing to take it off your hands (for a price of course). Much appreciated. Jeff

With my 3B rebuild project, magna flux, die pen, and some kind of bouncing steely test on the head, crank shaft and cam shaft revealed cracks. A new head from Engine Australia fixed that (unfortunately, it sounds like most 3B's need them on a rebuild). The crank and cam shafts were remachined...

I used the same recipe as Code 621's, cork with a thin layer of blue RTV between the block and cork when I pulled my pan. (Thank you mud post whoever it was). I knew a rebuild was in the near future and it made for easy removal and reuse. Any how, that was 10,000 miles ago and it is holding...

I picked up an 81 landcruiser (BJ42) in Tennesse and drove it to northern Michigan with a respectable piston slap. I put on another 4k miles until I got the rebuild parts together. In my case it was a cracked and missing piston skirt on half the piston. It also had a sweet spot where it was...

Never done it myself but that's what MMO recommends so give it a try. The only thing that concerns me about leaving it in long term is the viscosity of MMO seems low compared to the oil. I have nothing to reference but I wondered about thinning the oil too much for long term use. Again...

I had a 3B with a metallic rap at 1 x's rpm and found the problem after I pulled the oil pan. In my case it was a piston missing part of its skirt. The noise was the other side of the piston skirt slapping the cylinder wall. My only solution was a rebuild as I didn't want to pay for the...

I just added the MMO and drove roughly 10-20 miles and dumped the oil and filter. More than enough to warm everything up. A little more information is my parents also had a ticky subaru. (Mine was a 95 legacy and they had an 03 outback) The same approach quieted theirs but it didn't last...