Just a thought on the power steering.....you could go full hydro with it, then you would be able to center your steering wheel, and not have it on an angle. You could tap the box for hydro, remove the pitman arm and move the box so that the wheel was centered. All you would need are the hoses...
I believe what he means by "blocking the front", is that he has installed 2" coil spacers.
Did you get an alignment done after installing the spacers?
I don't know about the fortuner suspension, but coil spacers are an acceptable cheaper alternative to a full suspension lift on IFS vehicles...
Well, thats good to know. I was just going by the experiences of several friends that have milemarker winches on their rigs, although I don't know if they've ever submerged them. Now, me on the other hand would be giving mine a bath quite regularly (possibly more often than I take a bath myself...
Actually, I think that you have me confused with the one and only PigHead.
Sadly, I am only PigHeadeD......not yet lucky enough to be in the wonderful world of Pigdom :crybaby:
But my goal is to eventually own the great 3...
an Fj40,
an 80 series
and maybe someday I'll find a nice Pig
Unbolt the shocks and rear stabilizer bar where they attach to the axle.
Jack the rear of the vehicle up by the Unibody, not the diff. You want the rear diff to droop all the way down. You'll probably have to jack it up quite high. It helps to use a lift if ones available. Make sure to use...
You're in luck....there is a whole thread dedicated to this in the FAQ:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/66170-pilot-bearing-removal.html
Personally I like the trick in post # 4 of filling the void behind the bearing with grease, then using an old bolt wrapped with electrical tape...
Yeah, the Warn 8274 is no doubt the best winch for a 'cruiser, but it won't fit in an ARB for a taco.
You can't go wrong with a Warn, and the 8000 is plenty.
Also Mile Marker seems to be getting good reviews too. They are slightly cheaper and are available with a wireless remote.
The power antenna could very well be the culprit if you can hear it running, but the mast is stuck. The motor may be overloading from trying to push up the antenna.
You could start by removing the radio and unplugging the harness from it. If the fuse no longer blows, then the antenna is...
Yes, the pads float on the pins. The clips on the bottom are the wear indicators. They are what causes the screeching noise and vibration in the pedal that lets you know that its time to change the pads.
Just what I was thinking!
If'n you're gonna' build a custom tractor using landcruiser parts, then you HAVE to find a way to utilize the PTO!!!!
This is a very cool build......different, but cool none the less. I like people who think outside the box.....reaffirms the idea that I'm not crazy...
Yep, the story that I got is "All you need to do is put the transmission back in it and you'll be good to go."
6 months and almost $2000 later, its almost drivable :rolleyes:
But at least you didn't end up with a Heep :clap: