Keep fitting cutting and refitting until it’s within clamping distance.
I just went through this on both driver and passenger sides. In mine I Had to use strap to close distance from b pillar to dash. Yours looks square so more trimming I think is needed. I also cut my corners on my rocker...
Forgot to answer your second question but I had Reel Steel panels and some were not matched as well as they should have. Particularly the sill and panels curvature. I think part of it though is variance in dimensions from factory as it’s turning out fairly square top to bottom.
Mostly cut slits...
Good on you for saving it. I literally ended up saving tub rails by the time I cut it all out. I can measure tomorrow but I bought a $120 kit for all poly body mounts from Daystsr. Thinking it’s about 1/2”. Lots of options out there. You reminded me I need to up my body thread.
SPIES and the other was Zook’s. Spies is a larger business dealing with blasting all sizes. They also specialize in paint. They blasted my frame. Zook’s is a guy running a local business but fun to chat with. We talked Costa Rican 40s for a time. He did a nice job on my rusted out tub. Photos...
I would cut flatten then reweld it. Probably will improve but never going to get back to zero deformation. I tried for hours to flatten mine. In the end, cut tossed in trash and replaced with new. Luckily I was tearing down anyway.
Likely still air in there or you have a leak. Especially since you said its reservoir went empty on you previously. If you want someone to pick it up for free let me know. Lol.
I had this happen and realized two things, first was the birf was 180 from my install and rotating it I could get it out. Ground it further then tried again. Second was inserting shaft all the way into diff pushed the birf up into slight interference when inserting. I am guessing the second is...