Recent content by mason

Just wanted to chime in here on a radio issue I had that was solved by this: All of a sudden, my factory radio wouldn't work. The LCD display would stay on, all the time, but, when the radio was turned on (volume knob worked), I only got static, and not a single button would work. The volume...

Ok, so it's not just me then. I'm guessing the stock OEM CDL switch is designed to ONLY engage the CDL in hi, but not disengage it in low, and probably has a pin that goes directly to where the pin 7 location is, requiring folks to remove the pin 7 from the harness to disengage it in low...

The company I work for now has a fleet of vehicles, half of which use the TM-D710A. I do the installs, maintenance and programming, and have used just about every speaker, and the best one I found was the standard, small rectangular speaker you find at just about any truck stop. It gave...

I've noticed this with my 80, but not sure if it's something odd that's going on, or that the 80's hazard switch doesn't have the one pin that the actual CDL switch has (leading to pin 7). I had to pull the front driveshaft to replace a front spider (which I still haven't done yet). I used the...

THAT is the recommendation I remember reading! Just couldn't remember where!

Thanks Romer. I know I read something about this (locking center diff with alternate methods) when I was doing the rear spiders a few months ago, but couldn't find the thread again. Just needed some reassurance. -Eddie

My daughter's 80 developed a sudden bad fast vibration (and growl) at over 20 mph under load (accelerating or decelerating). Based on the speed of the vibration, I knew it was driveline rather than wheel-related. Ended up being a bad front spider on the front driveshaft. Didn't have a CDL...

Has your temp gauge been altered/modified? These gauges don't show *exactly* an increase until it's above a certain range (don't remember what it is), unless it's been modified. So if yours is stock, it sounds like you have an overheating problem already. I live in the desert southwest...

'93-'94 OEM copper-core radiator. Blue hub fan clutch. Change hoses, flush. Good to go. -Eddie

Likely a HG. Very common with these engines, especially on #6. And that's not a bad price. -Eddie

I read through numerous threads regarding removal just a few days ago. Remembered reading this one: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/307424-rth-pulled-factory-alarm-now-truck-wont-fire.html He had the same problem as you: crank, but no start. Ended up jumping the circuit, and it...

Yeah, that sucks. But, it's good you've already got your FSM and you're already well familiar with where to order the genuine parts from (if you go that route). Hope it's a quick recovery! -Eddie

Well, I don't know how common it really is. I was at my local Ford house, picking up some parts for my pickup, and talked to the service manager. I asked what they did for the brake flush, and they were quite a bit more comprehensive than what Toyota did. For less money. And when I started...

And, if you determine you're going to do it (or have it done), CDan will get you the newer HG, along with everything you need, including the valve-grind kit. You'll save money there, as well as knowing you have quality parts. -Eddie

There used to be a guy on the forum who would travel and do the job for about half what a pro shop would charge (around a grand, IIRC). Would take him about three days (depending on if the head only needed to be milled; longer if a valve job was going to be done). That was seven years ago...