Of course I wasn't sure !!!! But I was looking for a more convincing explanation, not just "it's too risky". So I decided to go on after realising that going down a steep hill would make the pump run dry anyways. until the vehicle gets to a more horizontal terrain and the oil level allows for...
I am reluctant to accept this idea.
The transmission must have been designed to allow dry operation, even under heavy load, for a reasonable amount of time, because when going down a very steep hill, all of the oil in the pan migrates forward, the strainer inlet is then depleted from any oil...
Well, did the flush yesterday.
Removed the pan, and there were 2 liters. Started the engine for 5 seconds, and turned off. After turning off, an extra 1.5 liter got out of the strainer inlet. Then removed the strainer and got 1.2 more liter. Total 4.7 liters. (about 5 quarts)
After cleaning...
Ok guys, I really appreciate your help. My 100 already has 330,000km (205,000 miles) and the fluid has never been changed.
If the pump stops doing its job after 2 or 3 liters because (i asume) it starts sucking air from the pan, then what about using vacuum on the line that sends oil to the...
I think I am not being clear, probably a language barrier thing.
What I intend to do (and ask whether this is possible or not), is to open the the transmission cooling circuit (by unclamping one of the hoses of course), and let ALL the old fluid to be PUMPED out completely, until the last drop...
Thank you for your prompt reply. I know that procedure... is the more or less the usual one, with multiple drain and fill steps until completion, in order to keep the system free from bubbles and not let the pump work "dry".
But my question was aimed to the possibility of a complete drain, and...
So... bubbles apart, a one-step complete drain is then possibe ? Can you run the engine until almost all of the fluid is out ? (converter, hoses, radiator, all except strainer and pan, which then will have to be unbolted in order to get the remaining 3 liters out).
Then after refilling, the...
Disassembly of the FRAM PH5123 oil filter (replacement for Toyota 30002) and also some fitting considerations for not screwing up the inner seal (yes there is an internal seal that it is worth lubing before fitting)
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-filter-30002-8t.129336/post-14073358
This is an old thread, but I think these pictures and information are worth reviving it.
I will show the internals of the FRAM PH5123 oil filter (replacement for toyota 30002), but more important is to show how one can screw up the internal seal if the filter is not fitted carefully or not...
Well, R134a arrived today, and I checked pressures. Both low and high reading were below nominal (10psi and 150psi), so I added R134a until pressures reached "nominal values". Just added some 250 grams or so (total charge is 850 grams nominal for front AC + Cool box)
The closer I could get to...
While waiting for a couple of R134A cans to arrive next week, I decided to remove the horns and intercooler for cleaning, and I noticed that the AC condenser needs some cleaning too.
Is there any way to clean it without removing it ?.... maybe removing just the engine radiator does the trick of...
Thank you guys,
I don't have any service manual covering my actual AC+cool box system, but looking at the EPC drawings, I can see that there is also a solenoid operated valve that regular AC systems don't have. It's part number 88690-60230 and I think it electrically enables freon flow to the...
I know this subject has been discussed many times before, but I couldn't find any discussion on my particular AC system, which has a cool box.
Well, my LC is a 2003 4.2TD with front AC + cool box... no rear AC.
The compressor clutch engages, and the AC works OK most of the time, but AC stops...
If you read my earlier post on this thread, the bearing is perfect, but the grease washed off by a diff oil leak... so I have to repack. Replacing would be nonsense.