Recent content by Beretta Vertec

Off-Road.Com - Toyota Tech - Diagnostic Trouble Codes You can reset the codes by just pulling the EFI fuse for a min.

Common problem. No check engine light = need new EFI relay. Try to get a plastic one from Napa. Lasts longer than metal ones from my experience.

Yes, the mechanic replaced the hard line from the LSPV to the rear axle and would you believe it if I said put in a third master cylinder? I don't even think the hard line was taking in air initially, it probably started to though after I pulled it to check for fluid. It was the master cylinder...

I was gonna do that (adjust LSPV), but didn't after I couldn't get fluid and concluded that it was somehow "air locked." Its dark, but I'll go try it real quick. EDIT: Just tried it. Detached bracket from axle, pushed it up and kept it up. Pulled rear line, no fluid.

The actual LSPV bleeds fine. Fluid gets there, and to the fronts. It's the LSPV itself that is not letting fluid to the rear. I know there are two lines that go INTO the LSPV, but as I said, I couldn't undo them to check. It's going the shop. I'll tell them everything I did, and hopefully can...

I googled and found that brake proportioning valves can get "air locked." And one way to "reset" it is to open the bleed screws and stomp on the brake pedal. This is supposed to equalize pressures and let fluid to the rear wheels. I thought about adjusting it, but didn't. I did use a line...

I tried to check the line going into the LSPV, but can't get it off. I semi-stripped the bolt trying to get it off. So if I got a T-fitting, I can't replace it anyways. But I don't think the LSPV is clogged, it just needs to be reset. Hopefully the mechanic knows how to do this.

I read about that when I searched. But, not sure I wanna just bypass it. If it is messed up, I'd rather just put a new one in. Anyways, as of right now, I'm done with it. Non-ABS brakes are relatively easy to understand, and I tried to fix it. It's going to the shop in the morning, let them...

Both wheel cylinders now replaced. Still can't get fluid to the rear wheels. Pulled the line that connects the rear wheels to the LSPV, and it was dry. Applied a vacuum to suck at the LSPV and got just a little bit. So no fluid is getting pass the LSPV to the rear. Tried to reset it by...

Yeah, that was the initial problem. I've been through 2 re-manufactured master cylinders, so I'm assuming thats not it. For now, I'm going to replace the wheel cylinder on the driver's side. Then do a combo 2-man + vacuum bleed to try to get fluid to the rear. I'll try adjusting the LSPV too...

Hi, I've got a 1992, 202K, stock. What I've been using for trouble shooting: Troubleshooting Guide for Brakes Initial problem: Initially the pedal would sink when at a stop light. What I've done: 1) Replaced master cylinder twice with re-manufactured ones. I bench bled. 2) Thought it just...

That one man bleeder kit is pretty much the same thing as what I was trying to do, isn't it? The kit comes with a magnet so you can stick it to the frame somewhere higher than the bleeder screw. This keeps fluid in the line to get sucked back in on the up stroke of the pedal. I've done it...

I might get one for next time. I didn't screw anything up by getting too much air in the lines did I? I know with ABS that can get screwed up, but non-ABS should be okay?

I'm gonna try to make a vacuum bleeder. How strong does the vacuum have to be? Would a vacuum cleaner be strong enough? EDIT: I failed. Vacuum wasn't strong enough.

I'm thinking...I might try that. Or wait till tomorrow to take it to a shop down the street, but somebody is gonna be pissed to have to walk home...