It took me a while to figure this out (I'm slow sometimes) - everyone says to hit it with a hammer, I was hitting straight down on the end on the stud, but what you want to do is to hit perpendicular to the stud, which moves the stud side-to-side, and they pop right out. I have a big brass drift...
Magnetman - if it were me, I'd go 1,5,6 on your list. Rust bullet want's bare metal or rust, not on top of primer. Check out rust bullet's website (Rust Inhibitor Paint | Stop Rust | Rust Corrosion Inhibitor | Rust Converter).
My fuel line on my '69 looks completely different, it is a clear (was clear) plastic looking hose. So I'm guessing mine isn't stock?
I'll try to get a picture of it, but it is under the seat...
The oil around the manifold is probably from a leaking valve cover gasket - F engines are known for leaky valve covers (read Mark's FAQ section on his website (the poster above me - he's a LC guru - take his advise - it's GOLD) - http://www.marksoffroad.net/FAQ.html - I learned alot from this -...
I've used rust bullet, and compared the prep involved vs. POR-15 (rust bullet has way less prep), and I've used Eastwoods rust encapsulaor (they also have a rust coverter product, used before the encapsulator - check out www eastwood.com for their rust solutions). The Eastwood was the easiest...
Also on the compression test, warm up the engine first. If you get a low reading on a cylinder, squirt in some oil and retest. If the number go up, it's rings. If the numbers stay the same, it's a valve(s).
I pretty sure I bought my WS from $OR (I'm in parts gathering mode), I'll have to check and see what I bought. I think I bought everything but the windshield one.
No doubt this post will help. I didn't even know those tools (except for the hook) existed, so it's a big help right there.
I...