Recent content by 916rockcrusher

Thanks for the info that’s a great price.

I noticed guys talking about the 1 degree difference when setting up a DC shaft being for axel wrap. I’ve always been told by driveline shops its for lubrication of the single joint side of the drive line. If the joint never rotates it will rust and seize.

Thats scary. Frequent inspection is very important on a heavily wheeled rig especially if it’s street driven.

If you decide to build your own make sure nothing is threaded into the bungs while welding or the threads will fuse and it’s time to junk It and start over.

I like to make my lowers out of 2” 250 wall DOM with 1 1/4” grade 8 heim thread at the top. The tubes always bend first and the threads usually are protected pretty well by the lock nut and larger diameter tubing. If it’s a concern could you make the top arms adjustable? I won’t buy aftermarket...

I’m having a hard time finding a new stock rear for under $560 right now do you have a good source?

Have you ever had a rig that wouldn’t stop vibrating after taking these two steps? I already was planning on building adjustable lower arms but I only want to spend the $$$ on a driveline once.

II just finished break in on my new 5.29s and took my rig to the coast. 4 hours each way of bad vibes I didn’t notice before with stock 4.10s. My rear slip at 385k miles is sloppy and is causing bad vibes especially coasting. I have 3.5“ J springs and I’m wondering if I should go DC or find a...

Toyota’s goal with the 80s and most of their products is quality and longevity. Dana/spicer‘s goal is and always has been value engineering. Cut quality to boost profits. Toyota = overbuilt, tight tolerances and superior metals who cares what it costs make it last. Let’s put a magnet on our...

The FSM doesn't give a ton of detail on cycling the CDL if I remember correctly. The safest way is to use a 9V battery so as not to fry anything or stretch the springs in the diff. If you're using the vehicle battery I would us a small fuse on your test lead to prevent damage. The motor has two...

You still have it?

The diff lock has to be at the limit switch in either lock or unlock before the relay will engage. Yours is probably stuck somewhere in the middle like mine was.

My relay clicked too. When it works properly there are 3 clicks out of the relay and only one when it wasn't working. That relay seems to be bulletproof as I shorted it several times with the wrong switch and several more testing so I wouldn't worry about it going bad. The ECT switch will not...

Good thinking. I wonder which hubs are just weak enough to break first yet functional enough to be safe. I've read that Warn hubs are weaker than stock and I know they work. Hopefully someone with experience running aftermarket hubs will see this thread.

Or a little extra hahaha