Im only suggesting this because it's happened to me before and not because I'm questioning your skill level, but are you sure that the butt connectors are connected tight? Working in those tight spaces and occasionally they'll look solid but they aren't actually passing current. Did you put your...
I'm betting a crank sensor if you sprayed and it didn't start firing....that means you either have spark firing at the wrong time, intermittent spark, or no spark. It could be the cam sensor but usually it's the crank sensor.
If it hasn't been started in all that time, you might consider letting some top end lube or marvel mystery oil sit in the bore for a lil bit (overnight) just in case the rings are stuck.
That looks rough at first glance but once you wire wheel it and get all the flaky stuff out of the way and see where the true rot is, you'll still be way ahead of where I started from. Believe it or not, you can fix that safely and make it stronger than new with just a bit of angle iron, a...
WIth experiences like those, I don't blame you one bit. How's your latest alternator working out? With such a quick failure rate, are you certain something else in the charging system isn't causing premature wear?
I'm on the opposite end of the spectrum, I put a Duralast alt into my old...
No worries, about the only good thing that came out of me purchasing my rustbucket, aka Rusty, is that I've become the defacto driveway expert on frame repairs. I had crossmember degradation as well but when I took it apart and really looked at it, there aren't any twisting forces on the...
I'm in the minority also, I've been buying parts-store branded alternators for years and haven't had any issues. With a lifetime warranty, it's also piece of mind for the wallet if you're doing the labor yourself.
IMHO, alternator designs haven't changed drastically enough over the last 20-30...
I did the same thing...bought a 2001 that looked great on the outside and then mistakenly trusted the seller and didn't do my normal full underbody inspection. The end result was a rusted out section of rear frame and about 12" of rusted frame just before and after the cross member on both the...
When I fixed mine about a year and some change ago, I ended up capping the 3/4 and fixing the leak on the 5/16. I'd rather cap the 5/16 too so I can eliminate the possibility of any of the rear stuff leaking. That's the hard part though, knowing what size the 5/16 line should be.
You can cap...
Does anyone know of a kit that instead of cutting the lines and capping them, you instead just screw off the old line and screw a new cap into it's place? I'm referring to the small 5/16 lines, not the big 3/4 line. As you'll see in the picture, the idea would be to avoid using the red cap and...
Looking at this now...does anyone know of a kit that instead of cutting the line and blocking it, you instead just screw off the old line and screw a new cap into it's place? I'm referring to the small 5/16 lines, not the big 3/4 line. If a cap exists, it'd be relatively easy to cap the small...
Why did you hook to the high beam ground? Why not just use the high beam hot as the trigger wire to turn the relay on? Maybe you're saying the same thing and I'm misunderstanding but I don't see the reason for using the high beam ground at all....