You can just install the Tees and top with whatever you like. You'll only need a few cups at most, if it was properly topped beforehand. But why take your time to ask!
Coolant system flush and service is very important. Doubly so if unknown...
We change boots if damaged, to keep out contaminants that can lead to seal damage. But doing so, will not stop leaks. You'll need a new steering rack, to stop leaks from it's side seals. AT-205 added to Power Steering reservoir, may help slow...
Toyota marketing literature, does say we can mix Pink (SLL) in red (LL). But doing so you must stick with reds schedule, of earlier of 30K miles or 2 years flush interval..
Personally I prefer Toyota SS 100% (RED) and mixing with distilled water...
I have keys cut by VIN # at Lexus or Toyota. As to often, keys cut by matching to old key, don't work well.
Sometimes, it's a case pins in tumbler worn-out. If tumbler bad, I've used one of two option:
1) Take old tumbler to lock-smith and have...
I just keep it simple. I've a small crow bar, I jamb in on bolt head. It really takes very little to hold (keep from spinning). Sometimes nothing is needed.
Even if you don't mark or measure the T-bar, which you should. Look close, you'll see they have marks and or teeth, to help orient. Personally, I like to mark bars and threads or count of it's adjuster bolt. I then get back as near post position...
Just torque, after assembly once on all 4 tires back the ground.
Again @nissanh is giving the pre disassembly measuring method, to set bushing in neutral stance. Which is to avoid the PITA of torquing once back on ground.
The goal is to have...
Quite frankly, I'd not considered serrations on nuts/bolt. We have few nuts in the 100 series with serration (I don't recall if control arms have them.) One example would be fan clutch to fan brackets' 4 nuts have a directional serration. We can...
Either measure as OP and you've done, and or torque after all done and laden.
Alignment afterwards, is good idea. Which you can then have nuts/bolts re-torqued, once on rack (drive on rack). To that end, I've circles nuts/bolts and written...
Check your coil wire block connection of #5. (BK1, 3rd cylinder from front)
Source of OEM plugs & coils. If not from authorized Toyota parts dealer. Are always suspect.
He's measured the position of LCA, while it's bushings were laden (weight on tires, vehicle level on ground). Then set LCA back to those measurements, for final torque. This "close enough method", is preferred by "some". Since getting swing with...
Non synthetic is fine.
Perhaps PO used a poor lube, was contaminated, overfilled or combination. Which resulted in increase foaming, so it leak when you purchased. Then you quickly drain leaving enough residue of old lube, contaminating your...
Pulse during braking, is rotor disk run-out exceeding design limits. Which is commonly referred to as "warped" rotor. Easy to fix!
With "warped" rotors. The hotter the brakes disk of rotor and pads, the more pronounced the brake pedal or whole...
18 months is helpful.
The question was concerning foaming. Now that I'm looking closer at "foaming". I became concerned, as I added the AT-205. Could it increase foaming. OH s*%t!
Speaking with AT-205 years ago. They said, we can just leave in...
No. I'll ask!
What did you use?
Yeah, the more I looked at the more I am 99.99% certain, it was overfilled. Still I'm questioning the fluid found in breather hose. Was the fluid a buildup over time, or a recent event. I'll be checking more of...
I'd also vote for overfill or improper fill of the T-case.
I've had leaks start on long trips before to... I assume from weak parts under full heat soak running for hours impacts tolerances and moves gunks and junks about.
You’ll need to pull the T-case to change the output seals. When I pulled mine the transmission output shaft was seeping (~280k miles). It had a small cut and I replaced it.
IIRC I don’t think it possible for the fluids to mix, though. They are...
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