FFE8CB2F-04FF-4EBE-9F55-3DA14C19984F.jpeg
bjon

FFE8CB2F-04FF-4EBE-9F55-3DA14C19984F.jpeg

FJ40 77’ wiring diagram
It is really not possible with any of the available Blue Sea ATC fuse panels to truely duplicate the 1977 fuse panel. The problem is the Toyota fuse panel has THREE power inputs. 4 circuits are always hot, two circuits are key switched hot via the LR ACC circuit on the key switch and two circuits are key switched hot via the BY IG circuit on the key switch. You would need a fuse panel with either three power inputs or 8 independent fuses that could be jumpered to create the three power inputs. Blue Sea does not offer either of those.

However...

If you are willing to separate the LR ACC circuit onto a separate in-line fuse them you can make the Blue Sea 5032 work.
See the drawing in the link below for how to do this:
BlueSea_5032
 
It is really not possible with any of the available Blue Sea ATC fuse panels to truely duplicate the 1977 fuse panel. The problem is the Toyota fuse panel has THREE power inputs. 4 circuits are always hot, two circuits are key switched hot via the LR ACC circuit on the key switch and two circuits are key switched hot via the BY IG circuit on the key switch. You would need a fuse panel with either three power inputs or 8 independent fuses that could be jumpered to create the three power inputs. Blue Sea does not offer either of those.

However...

If you are willing to separate the LR ACC circuit onto a separate in-line fuse them you can make the Blue Sea 5032 work.
See the drawing in the link below for how to do this:
BlueSea_5032
Man… this is incredible!! I really appreciate you explaining this. I had another LC buddy also suggested a separate block for switched and consistent power
It is really not possible with any of the available Blue Sea ATC fuse panels to truely duplicate the 1977 fuse panel. The problem is the Toyota fuse panel has THREE power inputs. 4 circuits are always hot, two circuits are key switched hot via the LR ACC circuit on the key switch and two circuits are key switched hot via the BY IG circuit on the key switch. You would need a fuse panel with either three power inputs or 8 independent fuses that could be jumpered to create the three power inputs. Blue Sea does not offer either of those.

However...

If you are willing to separate the LR ACC circuit onto a separate in-line fuse them you can make the Blue Sea 5032 work.
See the drawing in the link below for how to do this:
BlueSea_5032
This is incredible!! Thanks so much for explaining that. I actually had another LC buddy suggest a separate fuse block for switched and consistent power too. I’ll follow your diagram and see if it works out.
 
Everything is pretty straight forward but I wanted clarification on the red circles. Is B+ a separate independent power source from the battery that powers that last small fused connection and if so do I run legs from that to both other #2’s on the other fuse blocks? Just a bit confused on that. The rest is good I think. 👍🏻
If that’s not correct then please share what those B’s mean on both #2 blocks.
Thank you again for your time.
-Bjon
 
I have a habit of labeling things like Toyota does on schematics. B+ next to something simply means that wire is +12V.
The Hazard switch has TWO power inputs so I label them #1 and #2.
The Blue Sea 5032 has two power inputs labeled A+ and B+ You would connect the 10 ga White/Blue wire to the A+ input, and the TWO BY 10ga wires to the B+ input. Anything connected to the top 4 fuses has always on power and anything connected to the bottom 4 fuses is key switched power.

The separate fuse at the bottom is the third power rail from the ACC on the Key Switch. If you don't want to have that separate fuse you could connect the Radio/ Wiper/Washer to one of the always hot fuses.
 

Media information

Album
FJ40 pics
Added by
bjon
Date added
View count
209
Comment count
6
Rating
0.00 star(s) 0 ratings

Image metadata

Filename
FFE8CB2F-04FF-4EBE-9F55-3DA14C19984F.jpeg
File size
4.6 MB
Dimensions
4032px x 3024px

Share this media

Top Bottom