Looks like a great starting point. A couple of thoughts in no particular order:
1. Add fuse between charge controller and the battery.
2. I would also add fuse between battery shut off and the fuse block.
3. the inverter will most likely require a fuse that is bigger than your fuse block might allow. Usually stuff in fuse block is 10A, maybe one 30A in there if you had something large, and you don't want to exceed the total capacity of your fuse block. so you may think about wiring the inverter directly off the battery, with it's own fuse.
4. Wire gage size is determined by the amps you need, and also the length of the wire. With some of your longer wire runs to the other side of the trailer, you may need to up-size wire gage to make sure you have adequate amps. I ended up using 10Ga, 14GA, and 18GA for most. But needed some 2GA and 4GA at a few locations near my battery, charge controller, shut off switch, and power to fuse block.
5. most batteries need to be vented when they are charging. so be sure to consider that before you frame it in.
You'll need to know what size fuse (10A, 30A, 100A, etc) that you need at various locations. It will depend on your final layout (how many panels, panel size, and other info).
Looks like a great starting point. A couple of thoughts in no particular order:
1. Add fuse between charge controller and the battery.
2. I would also add fuse between battery shut off and the fuse block.
3. the inverter will most likely require a fuse that is bigger than your fuse block might allow. Usually stuff in fuse block is 10A, maybe one 30A in there if you had something large, and you don't want to exceed the total capacity of your fuse block. so you may think about wiring the inverter directly off the battery, with it's own fuse.
4. Wire gage size is determined by the amps you need, and also the length of the wire. With some of your longer wire runs to the other side of the trailer, you may need to up-size wire gage to make sure you have adequate amps. I ended up using 10Ga, 14GA, and 18GA for most. But needed some 2GA and 4GA at a few locations near my battery, charge controller, shut off switch, and power to fuse block.
5. most batteries need to be vented when they are charging. so be sure to consider that before you frame it in.
You'll need to know what size fuse (10A, 30A, 100A, etc) that you need at various locations. It will depend on your final layout (how many panels, panel size, and other info).
1. Based on the calcs for 2 - 100W panels in parallel I get 14.65 should I use a 15a or 20a fuse between them and the controller? If the controller is 30a pwm why wouldn't that just be a 30a fuse?
2. How do I determine the fuse size between the shutoff switch and the fuse block, do I just match the fuse block? I'm looking at a 10 fuse 100a block so I have extra spaces if I ever want them. Found these 100a fuses: Amazon product ASIN B07FFC6NNB3. I couldn't find in your post about calculating the wire size, can you point me at it?
4. The lights are only pulling .18a each (LED's are awesome), thats .9a total so I'm guessing a 2a fuse is the only option there?
5. The 2 usb/outlets pull 3a, should I go 3a or 5a on the fuse?
6. The water pump specs say 3a (6 max amps) I'm thinking 5a fuse so it never hits 6a which I assume would burn up the pump, thoughts?
7. The fridge and heater both have 15a fuses built in, I think just matching those is the way to go in the fuse block, double protection.
Battery will probably just have some kind of tray so it doesn't move all around, the compartment isn't super airtight but I can add a little vent of some kind if needed.
1. Yep. 20A from panels to Controller. At controller to battery, match your charge controller amperage, 30A.
2. Yep, match your fuse block total capacity, 100A. I can't see your link, but I went with this one: Amazon product ASIN B001P6FTHC
3. Check here: choosing-right-wire-size - Web - https://www.windynation.com/jzv/inf/choosing-right-wire-size
For example, a 10GA wire can run 30 amps, at 3.5 feet. If you want to go farther, you need to upsize the wire. If you go 15 ft with 30 amps, you'll need 4 GA wire. Not an issue for the lights and small stuff, but for your fridge (sensitive to amp drop over long runs of wire) and inverter, you'll need to double check the wire size is appropriate for the length you run. In my trailer, running wire from a cabinet, down the wall, under the trailer, up the wall, over to outlet, added substantial length to my wire runs. It might mean that you place electrical components (your inverter) closer to your battery to avoid big a$$ wires. Something to keep in mind.
4. Yep, small stuff. Maybe 5A fuse. (buy a big variety box full of fuses from Amazon as it is much cheaper than Napa, Autozone).
5. 5A is probably fine. Keep in mind, you want a fuse that is rated lower than the amperage your wire can carry. Otherwise in an overload situation your wire will burn up before the fuse. This relates to how long of wire runs you have.
6. Similar to 5.
7. I agree. I used a 15A fuse with my ARB fridge. And I ended up running 10GA wire for my fridge since it was a longer wire run.
Remember to add a hold-down strap or bracket for the battery. I watched our old trailer catch air and thanked my lucky stars the batteries were strapped down. Haha.
You've got a really cool project. Can't wait to see it finished.
Found this awesome wire size calculator where you put in the amps being pulled and the length and it tells you recommended fuse size and wire size.
It says I need to go to 6 gauge on the fridge and water heater/inverter due to the length of run. I'm kind of on the 6/8 edge so I'm going to go up. Seems crazy large though.
That's a good website.
I agree, wire size can get large and seem a bit out of the ordinary.
Any chance you have of shortening the wire runs will be value added.
Yeah having the controller, fuse block, and battery on one end and the fridge, water pump and heater on the other isn't conducive to short runs. I haven't come up with a better layout though, largely because I don't have anywhere to put the battery up front.
