Inner rear wheel wells replacement panals? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Avro
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There are quite a few spot welds holding the inner well onto the floor, quarter panel and rocker. If you just need to fill in holes near the top and dont have issues with the well at the floor or on the quarter/rocker area...I would find a wrecked or parted 60 to cut new metal from and then weld that back in.
Edit: MIG welding it back in is fine. If you cut your patch first you can trace the outline on your rusted wheel well then cut that area out for a near perfect fit. Tight fit with minimal gaps is best to keep from blowing though the sheet metal.
Edit: MIG welding it back in is fine. If you cut your patch first you can trace the outline on your rusted wheel well then cut that area out for a near perfect fit. Tight fit with minimal gaps is best to keep from blowing though the sheet metal.
I am in the same boat. I am thinking of just puting my 60 in storage and buy a caravan till I decide what I do with the 60. Its used as my service vehicle. Inner fender is rusted though where it is spot welded to the inner wall and all the way down to the outside.
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I think I'm just going to hammer the bad with a pin hammer, cut out the rot and get some sheet metal and mig weld it in. Paint er all black and I'm good to go.
I'm going to just cut out the bad, mig weld some new sheet metal in there, paint er black, and she will be good to go. Thank you for the tips, cheers
Avro im in the same boat. What is a pin hammer? BTW, can another wheel well from a make/model truck be used in place of a fj60? And essar5, what how many wheel well spot welds need to be removed? how much time do you think it would take to cut the old on out and weld in a new one..including clean up of floor sheet metal area? How is the floor spot welded to the inner wheel well? Do I need to cut it out from behind the frame?
If you are going to be replacing the entire wheel well don't even try anything other than the original. I don't have an exact number of spot welds required to replace one memorized, but it is pretty close to 2 spot welds per inch on the entire circumference of the wheel well. If I had to guess I would say no less than 100 individual spot welds to cut through. I wouldn't even consider replacing the entire thing unless the quarter panel behind it needed to be repaired or the floor around it was wasted. Just patch in sheet metal on the top, or on the sides or on the floor as needed. The time it takes to pull your old and the new wheel well will take several hours on its own, and you haven't even sparked an arc yet.
The floor bends 90 degrees downward and is spot welded about half an inch below the floor line to the inner wheel well. Easy to deal with if you are cutting the floor out as you only have to drill out the spot welds holding it on the inner quarter. If you have good floors and want to keep it that way it won't be an easy job.
The floor bends 90 degrees downward and is spot welded about half an inch below the floor line to the inner wheel well. Easy to deal with if you are cutting the floor out as you only have to drill out the spot welds holding it on the inner quarter. If you have good floors and want to keep it that way it won't be an easy job.
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Essar5, thanks for the heads up on time it takes to remove the wheel well. I unfortunately already posted this very same question. I assume that the quarter panel has to be removed to remove the inner/outer wheel well?
You can remove the inner wheel well without doing anything to the outer quarter other than slicing through some undercoat between the two if it has been undercoated. The outer wheel well is part of the quarter panel, you could probably separate it from the panel if you had to. But that is another one of those solutions that brings problems of its own. It would be much easier to patch in panels if you have mostly good metal left to work with. Or better yet, if you have other problems with your quarter, just replace the whole panel if you can find a good one. While it would take the most time of any option, it would fix several problems at once (assuming you have several problems at once).
I was going to take some pictures of the carnage laying around my garage but I can't find my camera right now and my cell phone is worthless for pictures. I will shoot some pics once I find that camera.
I was going to take some pictures of the carnage laying around my garage but I can't find my camera right now and my cell phone is worthless for pictures. I will shoot some pics once I find that camera.
I know this conversation has been moving through other forums and threads but I promised pictures, so here they are.
Here is a good wheel well that I removed from a floor that was cut in half, and what was left of the quarter panel it was attached to.
This is the reason why I went through all of that:
Here's how the floor and wheel well attach:
And lastly here is the magical "outer wheel well". I'm just going to cut out what I need from here, these spot welds do not look like so much fun to try and drill out.
Here is a good wheel well that I removed from a floor that was cut in half, and what was left of the quarter panel it was attached to.
This is the reason why I went through all of that:
Here's how the floor and wheel well attach:
And lastly here is the magical "outer wheel well". I'm just going to cut out what I need from here, these spot welds do not look like so much fun to try and drill out.
Aren't spot welds fun. I restored a 1977 Ford Bronco years ago and replaced 85% of the factory sheetmetal. I had nightmares of spot welds after that.
btw would it be easier to rivet those spot welds back into place?
I don't see where it would save you time or effort if you had access to a welder. Plug welds are easy and quick.
@essar5 do you happen to have a pic of the wheel well backing plate? Im trying to remove mine from my 60 and I'm wondering if I missed the bottom rivets.
Carpet Install / Tint Removal
Carpet Install / Tint Removal
