School me.
What are the benefits of running a square front driveshaft on a rig such as this? Strength?
What are the benefits of running a square front driveshaft on a rig such as this? Strength?
Fodee build "Where it's at" (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fjfodee
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- Thread starter
- #22
Good point.
Strength mainly, 1/4 wall tube inside another 1/4 wall tube would be plenty stout. You also have the benefit of making as much slip as you want.
I've seen square driveline "walk" themselves off of a rock rather than just spin.
CHEAP
They do have downsides tho...as Bomar mentioned one.
Has anyone experimented withed any of the metric driveshaft shapes (star, triangle, etc.)? I know some are heavy wall, but it may be cheaper to have a round shaft made. Balancing would be an issue with those as well (I think).
Bomar
SILVER Star
My theory...round if you drive it on the road. Trail rig...Anything goes but round will always be less wear on driveline....bearing, seals, and shafts. Also less noise...
Yeah, I'd probably go round if you plan to drive it on the road much.
As for the other part, I am assuming you want to run the same length so you can have one spare. I would just get a "pillow block" bearing for the front, and put a slip yoke just forward of the bearing. Then just make sure the slip yoke for the rear is measured so that it makes that piece the same length. It shouldn't matter if the shafts are a little different in length, as long as that piece is the same. When you make them, just index them all together and mark them to line them up. That way if you have to replace them, you could just unbolt one end and slide the other end out.
As for the other part, I am assuming you want to run the same length so you can have one spare. I would just get a "pillow block" bearing for the front, and put a slip yoke just forward of the bearing. Then just make sure the slip yoke for the rear is measured so that it makes that piece the same length. It shouldn't matter if the shafts are a little different in length, as long as that piece is the same. When you make them, just index them all together and mark them to line them up. That way if you have to replace them, you could just unbolt one end and slide the other end out.
- Thread starter
- #26
I plan on getting as much use out of this rig as possible. Hwy driving, trail riding, and anything in between. I do have some old mini truck shafts that would probably work fine. Might make a square spare for just in case. Unless ya'll see a big advantage to having custom shafts made by one of the big name guys.
Johnathon, yeah that's exactly what I had in mind. Have seen it done here on mud years ago, but can't locate the thread now...
Johnathon, yeah that's exactly what I had in mind. Have seen it done here on mud years ago, but can't locate the thread now...
Mark, I know you are not in LR, but I have had good luck with Dynamic Driveline here locally... Might be worth checking it out, cause I know they would be cheaper than the big name guys.
Bomar
SILVER Star
Like Lance said get it done locally. Always always use OE joints worth there price v cheaper one.
I've had two driveshafts rebuilt at Joint, Clutch and Gear. One for a K5 and one for my 80. Did a great job. Not sure if they do custom work or not.
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks for the info guys. I also need to have a double cardan built for the 80. I'll check em out.
I liked the guys at Dynamic as well.
Dang I hope you took notes. I will rebuild my 2F someday.
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- #33
So when I bought this rig back in '06 I was still in a mini truck frame of mind. Took me a while before I figured out I was headed in the WRONG direction. Anyway, one of the things I kept were the springs. Custom Alcans, which are mini truck width. This allowed me to use the front hanger from an SAS kit which in turned set the springs outboard about 1.5" each side. Front springs are about 6" longer than stock, and the rears are around 12" longer.
Also bought a set of shackles from Marlin along with sleeves for an SAS on a mini. Measured everything 26 times then cut holes in the frame and sleeved for the shackles . At one point I had the shackles mounted on the bottom of the frame, but didn't like that at all. Originally I had it set up as SOA but I thought it was too tall. So I went back SUA. Left the spring pads on top of the axle just in case I ever decide to go back. Never mind the plate protruding from the front. Thats just excess scab plate that I haven't cut off.
Also bought a set of shackles from Marlin along with sleeves for an SAS on a mini. Measured everything 26 times then cut holes in the frame and sleeved for the shackles . At one point I had the shackles mounted on the bottom of the frame, but didn't like that at all. Originally I had it set up as SOA but I thought it was too tall. So I went back SUA. Left the spring pads on top of the axle just in case I ever decide to go back. Never mind the plate protruding from the front. Thats just excess scab plate that I haven't cut off.
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- #34
I cut the rear hangers off and made my own out of 3/8 plate. The stock ones are just bad times waiting to happen.
The rear springs moved the axle back about 10". The bumper was one of the first things done after I bought it. Not sure I like it anymore, but if I change it I'll still need a place to mount hangers. It's basically 2 pieces of 4x4 square tube cut up then welded back together. Thinking I'll at least remove the 2 rear most "wings". Thoughts??
The rear springs moved the axle back about 10". The bumper was one of the first things done after I bought it. Not sure I like it anymore, but if I change it I'll still need a place to mount hangers. It's basically 2 pieces of 4x4 square tube cut up then welded back together. Thinking I'll at least remove the 2 rear most "wings". Thoughts??
- Thread starter
- #35
Also whipped up these snazzy cradles for the springs. Got the idea from some other build here on Mud.
M0untaineer
Montani Semper Liberi
YotaJosh
SILVER Star
I like the front spring hanger. It's got great clearance, which a lot of the standard shackle reversals lack.
I'd add some bracing on the front hangers of the rear springs. On the front side back to the frame, to counteract the pushing forces from the axle and springs. It's not the weight of the truck that kills the hanger, it's the axle pushing the truck forward. Lateral forces.
Rear bumper looks good to me. I'm curious what it looks like with the tub on, so do that real quick and take another picture.
Not bad so far.
I'd add some bracing on the front hangers of the rear springs. On the front side back to the frame, to counteract the pushing forces from the axle and springs. It's not the weight of the truck that kills the hanger, it's the axle pushing the truck forward. Lateral forces.
Rear bumper looks good to me. I'm curious what it looks like with the tub on, so do that real quick and take another picture.
Not bad so far.
- Thread starter
- #38
Rear bumper looks good to me. I'm curious what it looks like with the tub on, so do that real quick and take another picture.
Not bad so far.
Done....with the magic of time lapse photography, spanning almost a decade.
- Thread starter
- #39
I am going to do something about the corners on the rear bumper. Just haven't decided yet. Give me some ideas!
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- #40
So I've been thinking about the front axle. I have already widened it to a 60 series width, and pieced together some axle shafts (mini and 40) to fit. As ya'll know, I now have spare front and rear unlocked 80 series axles. The rear is more than likely going to go into the 40. I'm not sure about the front tho. While I would not install the complete front axle, I have been debating using the knuckles out. This brings several challenges to the table. Here's a couple of the major ones...
1. Axle shafts...I could widen the already widened 40 axle to the 80 width and run 80 shafts. Or...possibly have a hybrid set of a shafts built with an 80 birf and correct length inners to fit the current configuration. I believe, in theory, that with the second option if I ever broke a birf or shaft I could use the axles I have now. Only difference (I think) would be a smaller birf.
2. Steering...Not real sure how to approach this just yet.
Or say screw it and continue with what I have...
1. Axle shafts...I could widen the already widened 40 axle to the 80 width and run 80 shafts. Or...possibly have a hybrid set of a shafts built with an 80 birf and correct length inners to fit the current configuration. I believe, in theory, that with the second option if I ever broke a birf or shaft I could use the axles I have now. Only difference (I think) would be a smaller birf.
2. Steering...Not real sure how to approach this just yet.
Or say screw it and continue with what I have...