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- #361
After nearly 7 years on the beach had my alloy rims sand blasted, etch primed, powder coated, plus a clear top coat.
Rebuild 74 FJ40 RHD from Down Under - 2F to 2H to 12HT - 40 series Axles with 80 series Coils (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter watrob
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- #362
Moved my attention to the roll cage. As I have to have a steel roll cage due to having a fibre glass sports tub I had it galvanised. I also have cover the steel tube with 20mm thick foam padding, but its was starting to deteriorate from the sun & weather, so I got some self adhering black UV protect plastic tape to wrap over the foam.
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- #363
This is the left & right engine from a HJ47 bolted to the 12HT engine then directly bolted to the FJ40 engine chassis mounts, there no cutting, welding or moving needed.
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- #364
So the chasses is now complete and I just need to lift the tube across.
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Very impressive Rob! 
(I used a soft urethane OME suspension bush in the bottom of my steering column but then mine is just the OEM manual steering 40-series arrangement.)
(I used a soft urethane OME suspension bush in the bottom of my steering column but then mine is just the OEM manual steering 40-series arrangement.)
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- #366
Very impressive Rob!
(I used a soft urethane OME suspension bush in the bottom of my steering column but then mine is just the OEM manual steering 40-series arrangement.)
Actually that's a pretty good idea, I am using the 80 series collapsible steering shaft with the rag joint it comes with. I decide to install a bearing as length of the shafts was starting to get fairly long when you use a 60 series power steering box.
Great work Rob, really enjoying following your build.
Looks like there are different versions of HJ47 engine brackets. Mine is HJ47 but has a seperate alternator bracket.
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- #368
The ones on that 12ht are 60 series engine mounts, not HJ47, the angle is wrong and won't mate up with the chassis engine mounts on a 40 series chassis. Those mounts are for a 60 series that did not have air-con?
Mine are definately HJ47. I still have the 60 series mounts that came off this engine and like you said they are completely different angles.
The one in the photo mated perfectly with my FJ40 mounts. If you compare our two brackets, I think the mounting surfaces are in the same location, just different castings to bolt it to the engine.
The one in the photo mated perfectly with my FJ40 mounts. If you compare our two brackets, I think the mounting surfaces are in the same location, just different castings to bolt it to the engine.
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- #370
Wondering if they are from a early model HJ47 that a H not 2H in it?
If it had an H engine wouldn't it be an HJ45 rather than an HJ47 though Rob?
In other words, is there such a thing as H-powered (rather than 2H-powered) HJ47?
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- #372
I have seen troopy's with H, remember someone swapped a 2H into one here in Qld couple years back. The 1978 models came with a H, late 1979 or 1980 the 2H came out.
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- #373
I have been talking to other members in the diesel section is regards to the Glow Plug Relay's a 2H diesel uses as does the 3B and few other Toyota diesel engines. My wiring harness I am currently using is from a HJ47 1983 model for the current 2H engine that I am running in the old chassis, this uses a Super Glow system with a main & a sub Glow Plug Relay's and a Pre Heat Timer controller, see photos below.
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- #374
The 12Ht uses 2 main Glow Plug Relays (no sub relay), they are nearly the same as the main round Glow Relay used on the 2H and a few other Toyota diesels except in the bracket design, see photo. The one on the left is from a 2H, the one on the right is for a 12ht.
I altered the plug on the second main relay so it plugs into the HJ47 wiring harness, as the other 12ht relay had the right plug.
I altered the plug on the second main relay so it plugs into the HJ47 wiring harness, as the other 12ht relay had the right plug.
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- #375
Now the new 12HT Pre Heat Timer has a larger plug but pin connection sizing are the same. A 2H uses 6 glow plugs and a 12HT uses a heat screen in the inlet manifold, (12volt system has one heat screen whereas a 24volt system for colder climates has 2 heats screens in the manifold)
The 2 glow plug timers, also as in the 2H are required for Pre Heat & After Heat.
The hj47 wiring loom has the right amount of wires going to the right places so it just a matter of pulling the wires out of the old plug and putting them in the new 12ht plug in the right order.
The 2 glow plug timers, also as in the 2H are required for Pre Heat & After Heat.
The hj47 wiring loom has the right amount of wires going to the right places so it just a matter of pulling the wires out of the old plug and putting them in the new 12ht plug in the right order.
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- #376
This is my current plug pin out.
This is the pin out for the 12HT Pre Heat Timer.
This is the pin out for the 12HT Pre Heat Timer.
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- #377
So l used these two wiring diagrams to sort out the change over pin numbers to the new 12ht plug.
HJ47 Pin 1 Y/W (Water Temp Sensor) becomes 12HT Pin 7
Pin 2 B/R (Glow Plug Relay No.1) becomes Pin 1
Pin 3 B (FL 0.5Green Wire) becomes Pin 6 (I could also use my pin 9 wire as its spare also)
Pin 4 Y (Regulator Term L) becomes Pin 9
Pin 5 W/B (Earth side of Temp Sensor)) becomes Pin 10
Pin 6 B/Y (Fuse - Ignition Switch/Start Relay) becomes Pin 4
Pin 7 R/B (Glow Indicator Light) becomes Pin 3
Pin 8 B/R (Glow Plug Relay No.2) becomes pin 5
Pin 9 ( Spare) Spare
Pin 10 B/W (To Ignition Switch) becomes Pin 11
Also I found out what the Brown wire with the Blue bands is for, its the earth side of the water temp sensor going back to the Pre-Heat Timer pin 10 on the 12HT (on the HJ47 timer the wire is a white with black stripe going to pin 5. The FL 0.5 Green wire goes back to pin 6 on the 12HT Re Heat Timer.
HJ47 Pin 1 Y/W (Water Temp Sensor) becomes 12HT Pin 7
Pin 2 B/R (Glow Plug Relay No.1) becomes Pin 1
Pin 3 B (FL 0.5Green Wire) becomes Pin 6 (I could also use my pin 9 wire as its spare also)
Pin 4 Y (Regulator Term L) becomes Pin 9
Pin 5 W/B (Earth side of Temp Sensor)) becomes Pin 10
Pin 6 B/Y (Fuse - Ignition Switch/Start Relay) becomes Pin 4
Pin 7 R/B (Glow Indicator Light) becomes Pin 3
Pin 8 B/R (Glow Plug Relay No.2) becomes pin 5
Pin 9 ( Spare) Spare
Pin 10 B/W (To Ignition Switch) becomes Pin 11
Also I found out what the Brown wire with the Blue bands is for, its the earth side of the water temp sensor going back to the Pre-Heat Timer pin 10 on the 12HT (on the HJ47 timer the wire is a white with black stripe going to pin 5. The FL 0.5 Green wire goes back to pin 6 on the 12HT Re Heat Timer.
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- #378
Having solved the Pre Heat Timer conversion from a 2H to a 12HT as above, I have now turned my attention to Fuel Control Relay (FCR). I have install the Oil Pressure Sensor Switch from the 2H into the 12HT engine block as the hole is in the engine block to accepts it (just remove the bung).
The FCR from the 2H has 4 wires going the Edic Motor (FCM), which a 12HT does not use, it uses a electric vacuum switch valve (VSV), which causes the vacuum actuator to close a butterfly in the inlet manifold which stops the engine when the ignition key is turned off.
So my aim is to work out a combination of these 4 wires that will activate the VSV to allow the VSV to work correctly - in allowing the engine to start & stop.
The 4 wires on a 2H to the Edic Motor are:-
Blue M (motor) +
Green D (Drive - run)
Yellow O.I (over-inject - adds extra diesel fuel on start up)
Red S (stop)
FCR & FCM CONNECTIONS
The FCR from the 2H has 4 wires going the Edic Motor (FCM), which a 12HT does not use, it uses a electric vacuum switch valve (VSV), which causes the vacuum actuator to close a butterfly in the inlet manifold which stops the engine when the ignition key is turned off.
So my aim is to work out a combination of these 4 wires that will activate the VSV to allow the VSV to work correctly - in allowing the engine to start & stop.
The 4 wires on a 2H to the Edic Motor are:-
Blue M (motor) +
Green D (Drive - run)
Yellow O.I (over-inject - adds extra diesel fuel on start up)
Red S (stop)
FCR & FCM CONNECTIONS
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- Thread starter
- #379
I need to re-wire these 4 wires (photo above) which did go to the Edic motor (FCM) in some combination from the FCR to the:-
VSV which will activate VACUUM ACTUATOR
VSV which will activate VACUUM ACTUATOR
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- #380
This is the circuit of the FCR which shows the 4 wires going to the Edic Motor (FCM), I just need to re configure this wiring to the VSV.
On my ignition switch I have LOCK, ACC, ON, START.
With the 2H when I turn the ignition key to "ON" (IG) it gives power to the edic motor and moves it into the D position (run/drive), when I turn the key "START" (ST) it moves the edic motor into Over-inject position (I.0), once started it returns the edic motor back to the D position (run/drive), when I turn the key to ACC (OFF) it tells the edic motor to go to S (Stop).
So when I turn the ignition to "ON" I need to have 12volts to the VSV, when I turn the key to "START" 12volts must remain on, when I turn the key back ACC (OFF) 12volts needs to be turned off to the VSV so the engine stops.
On my ignition switch I have LOCK, ACC, ON, START.
With the 2H when I turn the ignition key to "ON" (IG) it gives power to the edic motor and moves it into the D position (run/drive), when I turn the key "START" (ST) it moves the edic motor into Over-inject position (I.0), once started it returns the edic motor back to the D position (run/drive), when I turn the key to ACC (OFF) it tells the edic motor to go to S (Stop).
So when I turn the ignition to "ON" I need to have 12volts to the VSV, when I turn the key to "START" 12volts must remain on, when I turn the key back ACC (OFF) 12volts needs to be turned off to the VSV so the engine stops.
