Builds Dirty Koala Build - Cummins 6BT + NV4500 + HF2AV Swap (2 Viewers)

[Dirty Koala]

Build Progress Index:

1. Basic Maintenance
2. Welded body trim & flare holes
3. Dual Battery Isolator - Hellroaring
4. Welded Roofrack holes & Installed ARB Bumper
5. Sound Deadener Install
6. Dual Battery Control & Monitor
7. Installed New Carpet
8. New Leather Installed
9. Part-Time Transfer Case
10. Body Prep for Monstaliner & Cuttingboard Tailgate
11. Monstaliner - Toyota Dark Green
12. 97 Cummins 6BT Acquired & Custom Rack Installed
13. Diesel Adapter Parts 1
14. Engo 12K Winch
15. Diesel Adapter Parts 2
16. Rausch Creek Wheeling & Installed Slee Radius Arms
17. GSMTR 2015
18. Custom Drawer System by @fireball
19. Backup battery Isolator video
20. YodaTEQ Gullwing review video
21. Cummins Rebuild underway
22. Cummins rebuild finished & delivered
23. Finished NV4500 Rebuild and mated HF2AV
24. Diesel conversion officially started
25. 1FZ-FE and Trans get pulled for Cummins Swap
26. ABS & LSPV Delete - Manual Proportioning Valve
27. Intercooler Pass-Thru Tubes
28. Clutch Pedal Assembly
29. Tundra wheel Re-finishing
30. Alternator Mod - Dodge / Toyota Hybrid
31. Using Toyota sensors on Cummins
32. 37's and Tundra Wheels
33. NV4500 / HF2AV Shift lever bracket
34. Modified Engine Harness
35. Clutch Master & Pedal Swap
36. Cummins and NV4500 Installed
37. Modified Crossmember Steering Box Spacer & HP PS hose
38. Modified NV4500 Shifter
39. Fuel Supply Connections
40. Tach Pickup
41. Sending Unit and Fuel Filler Mods
42. Finished Shifter Console
43. Clutch Hydraulics
44. Down Pipe & Gauges
45. Potentiometer Install for Gauges and Lockers
46. Troubleshooting Electrical - Starting Circuit
47. First Trip Report - CMCC '16
48. Boost Leak
49. New Turbo & AFC Live 2.0
50. Awesome @Beno box
51. Don't use AVM Hubs
52. Front Diff Carnage - CMCC ' 16
53. Harrop Lockers, 4.10 Gears and Knuckle Rebuild
54. Slinky Stage 4 Suspension
55. Slee Steering Linkage Install and Wits' End Quarter Panel Design
56. Slinky & Electrical All-nighter
57. Typical Cummins oil leaks
58. LOTS of wiring & Speski Rack
59. Cross Country Trouble
60. SWAdventure18 trip Report
61. New Condenser, Group 21 AGM's x 3 & Family Camping in Spanish Fork
62. Rear Defrost switch mod for Grid Heater & Ignition wiring re-do
63. Panhard Mount Rebuild

 

[Dirty Koala]

Since getting the Dirty Koala home, I have slowly been working my way through the truck fixing everything that is broken and gradually baselining the rig.

My 1997 FZJ80 collectors edition is currently Emerald Green and came with the following:
ARB airlockers front and rear, OME comp springs (420/419 I think), BFG KM2 315's, Safari snorkel, Proline bumpers (front & Rear) and proline sliders.

Just a few of the initial items I have taken care of...

• Rebuilt PS Knuckle - Replaced wheel bearings, spindle, birf, hub and seals - All OEM
• Rebuilt DS knuckle - Replaced wheel bearings and seals - All OEM
• Replaced Rotors, Calipers, Pads and soft lines with OEM parts
• Replaced PHH with SAMCO Sport silicone and breeze constant torque clamps
• Replaced FHH with SAMCO Sport silicone and breeze constant torque clamps
• Replaced water pump and gasket - OEM
• Replaced heater control valve - OEM
• Replaced the three o-rings in the heater by-pass tube above the thermostat - OEM
• Replaced thermostat - OEM
• Replaced the gas tank door spring - OEM
• Replaced oil cooler hoses (trans to radiator, radiator to AUX cooler, Aux cooler to Trans)- Gates 3/8" ID P/N 27059 and Breeze constant torque hose clamps size 10.
• Replaced both drive and A/C belts - OEM
• Replaced fan clutch - ASIN Blue OEM
• Flush all old coolant out of block
• Replaced Radiator - OEM
• Replaced 3 main radiator hoses - OEM using Breeze constant Torque Hose clamps
• Relocate washer bottle using slee braket and install 2nd battery tray
• Replaced A/C Tensioner Pulley - OEM
• Replaced inlet hose to heater control valve - OE
• Replaced No.3 water bypass hose - OEM
• Replace gas filter in manifold (broke nipple whilst climbing around engine bay) - OEM
• Replace PCV valve and grommet
• Replace both PCV hoses
• Replace manifold vacuum lines (that can be reached without removing manifold)
• Replace EVAP hoses on charcoal canister
• Install Depo LED tail lights
• Install 31M DHP as primary battery and create new tie down bar & hooks
• Replace all primary battery cables and grounds with fourrunner's 1Ga and 4Ga cables
• Install Blue Sea 5029 fuse block in engine bay
• Install 34M DHP as backup battery and create new tie down hooks
• Install Pfran LED reverse light bulbs
• Fix Front Drivers Power Seat - Forward/Reverse (Gamaviti Gears)
• Replace wiper blades - Bosch Icon 18A
• Strip interior and wash out all mud, dirt and grime)
• Fix Front Passenger power window (replace motor)
• Paint front grill black and install TEQ emblem
• Bypass and Delete rear heater (heater motor not working)
• Cut out rust spot on front drivers side drain channel and weld in new steel.
• Replaced both u-joints in front drive shaft - OEM
• Weld up the 50 flare holes and trim holes
• Paint welded holes with POR15
• Paint rust repair on drivers floor with POR15

I thought there was a little surface rust in the drivers side channel, but when runnign a wire wheel over, it punched right through. So I cut the cancer out in prep of welding in new steel.

I made a simple bracket to bolt my Blue sea fuse block to, it used the charcoal canister bracket to mount to.

Does anyone know what this relay does? It was bolted to the rear heater frame, I have left the relay in place as I am not sure what it does.

View attachment 890158

 

[Overland Tailor]

Relay for the rear heater.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Dirty Koala]

Relay for the rear heater.


...via IH8MUD app

I thought so, thanks. Does it make any sense to leave this relay in now that my rear heater has been deleted...probably not right?

 

[Overland Tailor]

I don't have the wiring diagram to verify, but I don't think its used with anything else but the heater. I might leave mine and utilize it in the future for another mod that would require a relay.

 

[Dirty Koala]

The mailman just arrived with a package from Adventure Tool Company, one of the vendors here on mud. I have to say that doing business with Paul and Amy has been a very pleasant experience!!! I contacted ATC about a week or so after I placed my order to see if there was a tracking number ready. Paul and Amy looked into it, and USPS had misplaced the package. ATC kept me updated every couple of days until my package arrived today, they are even sending me a shirt for my "trouble"...really good honest folks to deal with.

Now their products are just amazing, as well as the personal presentation...The last time I received a package presented this nicely it was a wedding gift I ordered a large tarp and three large tool bags with extra labels. The scent of the freshly waxed canvas is great!

The package came at the perfect time as I was about to head out to work on the truck on my gravel driveway.

Yesterday I sanded down my grill and applied two coats of black krylon rattle can. Today I put my bhicks TEQ emblem on, I think it looks great.

 

[Overland Tailor]

Looks great.... and hey,

I'm not the safety police or a pansy, just someone who cares about fellow mudders and was unfortunate enough to witness an "E" size oxygen cylinder get knocked over and bust the valve. Pushed a huge snap on tool box right into a $3M medical helicopter in the hanger doing countless $$$$$$$ damage. Get something to strap that 75/25 bottle in so it wont fall over...

 

[Dirty Koala]

Looks great.... and hey,

I'm not the safety police or a pansy, just someone who cares about fellow mudders and was unfortunate enough to witness an "E" size oxygen cylinder get knocked over and bust the valve. Pushed a huge snap on tool box right into a $3M medical helicopter in the hanger doing countless $$$$$$$ damage. Get something to strap that 75/25 bottle in so it wont fall over...

It would be my luck that I would send that tank through my living room! The wheels on my welding cart cant handle the gravel driveway, so until i get a new cart, or build one with real tires I am stuck lugging this setup outside....not safe at all I know.

 

[Booger weldz]

I strap my bottle to the vehicle or gate depending where i work. Someone tipped mine over once and fortunately it landed in dirt/grass and mearly broke the low pressure gage on the regulator.

If you quickly open the valve on these you can easily blow the hat off a coworkers head 10 feet away. 2300 psi to 14.7 through a 3/4" hole equals propulsion!!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Beautiful rig

 

[Dirty Koala]

Beautiful rig

Thank you John!

Get something to strap that 75/25 bottle in so it wont fall over...

Noted...I strapped it up with a 3rd row seat b elt I took out the day before

Yesterday I got a bunch of body work done....I am not a fan of body work at all!!! I welded in a new piece of 16 gauge steel to replace the cancerous rust I cut out on Saturday...the welds are brutally ugly, but plenty strong and fully sealed. Once I get them cleaned up and coated with POR15 or Chassis Saver they should be good to go.

I also started the tedious process of welding up all the flare holes. I picked up a Durston Manufacturing Magnetic Plug Weld tool from amazon for about $26, worth it's weight in gold!!! This really helped limit the burn through that I would have had without the copper backer....and best part is I didn't have to cash in a chip asking for help since the magnet did all the work...bonus.

I managed to get through the rear drivers side quarter panel and rear door before it got too dark to see....I am really wishing I didn't have that extra trim...anyone know how many holes are under there? and the best way to get the trim off?

 

[ExpoGeorgia]

I love what you have done to the 80, does it have a 4 inch suspension lift? Get some pics when you take it wheeling!

 

[Dirty Koala]

I love what you have done to the 80, does it have a 4 inch suspension lift? Get some pics when you take it wheeling!

Thanks, yes it has a 4" OME comp suspension.

 

[Dirty Koala]

Had a productive weekend. I finished welding up all 50 flare and door trim holes, ground them all down and gave them all a coat of POR15. I also gave the drivers side a coat on POR15 on the inside, I still need to do the same for the passengers side. The next step is to skim the holes with POR epoxy putty, and then sand smooth....a job for another day.

All in, I think it took about 15-18 hours to get this done.

 

[Dirty Koala]

I also gave the drivers side drain channel and new steel patch a coat of PO5, I hit the backside of the patch too.

I finally got around to replacing the u-joints on my front drive shaft, they were vibrating horribly when I got the truck, have been dring with the shaft out and the center diff locked since then. I used OEM ujoints from Beno.

 

[Stevesnj]

Looking great!! What's the part number of those U Joints. My OEMs didn't look anything like that

 

[Dirty Koala]

Looking great!! What's the part number of those U Joints. My OEMs didn't look anything like that

Thanks Steve. The front drive shaft uses part number 04371-60070.

The rear drive shaft uses part number 04371-36030

 

[1973Guppie]

that magnetic tool is slick......

I wish I had that when I did my flares, I did not have a helper so I just welded em up, I found out later I got lucky in that I did not do any damage to the interior....

 

[nigelsiam]

It's looking really nice!! Is that all the cancer you had to cut and patch up?

 

[Dirty Koala]

that magnetic tool is slick......

I wish I had that when I did my flares, I did not have a helper so I just welded em up, I found out later I got lucky in that I did not do any damage to the interior....

Yeah that tool was a big help. I was able to use it for all the holes in the rear quarter panels, the doors (except Tue ones in the very corner) and all but 2 of the holes on the front fenders. I also pulled my interior out completely so the that there was no chance of my lighting the truck up.

It's looking really nice!! Is that all the cancer you had to cut and patch up?

Thanks, I have two other spots that I still need to fix. Right behind the rear wheels, where the mud flaps would be, (both left and right) I have already cut it out, but haven't had a chance to weld in new steel yet.