Builds My '78 FJ40 "44" (1 Viewer)

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Riley (jetranger) suggested I start a thread here to announce my new 1978 FJ40.

Some of you may experience deja vu - I previously posted some of this information in the 'classifieds' forum, as posts within my initial "WantToBuy: New Member Looking for and FJ40 in Nevada" thread - I closed that thread and will post new pictures here.

I bought my 40 from Classic Car Liquidators(CCL) in Sherman, TX and, while it took longer than expected for them to get it delivered, they more than made up for the delay by reupholstering the bucket seats and the jump seats - I'm very pleased with my new seats! I'm also very pleased with CCL!

I took delivery of "44" (44th wedding anniversary this month and 40 for FJ40) on March 6th and it is everything I was led to believe it would be!

I was led to believe (by the seller and the inspector I hired) that it was virtually rust-free and it is - the rust is extremely minimal and only surface.

I was led to believe it was in great mechanical condition - and I'm very pleased with the overall condition.

I was led to believe the paint was good (no bondo), but not showroom (with some red showing thru) - and it is exactly that - I plan to use my 40 offroad (not crawling), but on very rough Nevada roads regardless - the paint is perfect for me - it looks good - but, not so good that I will worry about scratching it.

The issues reported by the inspector (other than the upholstery that has been replaced) were: watery coolant; a slight oil leak at the front of the oil pan; and the clutch engaged too high.

I took it to the local Toyota dealership on March 11th and asked them to flush the coolant, the diffs and the transfer case. I also asked them to adjust the clutch, do a frontend alignment and tell me where the oil leak was.

They found the plastic coolant canister completely clogged - that's resolved and coolant has been replaced.

They found the front diff fluid was a thick 'mud' consistency - that's resolved.

The back diff and transfer case was fairly clean - but I had them flushed anyway.

The oil is new, as is the transmission fluid.

They said they couldn't adjust the clutch because the slave cylinder adjustment is 'frozen' - I have ordered a replacement and will install and adjust it myself.

They said they couldn't align the frontend because the two front rods (that are used for this purpose) are also "frozen" - 44 is safely drive-able, as is, I will deal with this later.

They showed me three minor leaks:
1. The oil pan plug has a very slight leak - it appears that whomever changed the oil didn't put a gasket on the plug - I will deal with this when I next change the oil.
2. The speedometer gear cable needs a new seal at the transmission - I will deal with this eventually.
3. This is the largest repair - the front input shaft seal is leaking on the transmission - unless this leak worsens, I will deal with this when I get to it.

I knew from the outset that there was no headliner in my 40 - I've spoken to scrapdaddy about Lizard Skin and Monstaliner (magnetman too) and they have both provided excellent input. I am now in touch with Lizard Skin - I plan to spray Lizard Skin "insulation" and "sound control" and then roll on Monstaliner, rather than install headliner (as scrapdaddy did in his SLOW 71 build.

NOTE: For anyone interested, here's what Lizard Skin told me:
"Thanks for your interest in LizardSkin, Where you can Spray your way to a Cooler, Quieter Ride.
The only prep on a fiberglass surface is make sure it’s clean with no grease, oil or dirt then scuff it very good with a red scotch brite pad then wipe it down with “D” natured alcohol. Tape off any areas you don’t want it on. Spraying is the best way to apply the product there are particles suspended in the product that must be evenly dispersed across the substrate for the best performance and we are looking for two 20 mil coats. Rolling or brushing those ceramic particles tend to hang up in the apparatus and even though the surface gets covered there could be holes in the product so to speak where heat could come through, the next area of concern if you’re not careful rolling can lay the product on too thick per coat so you have to be patient and measure your coats to be at 20 mils. If you are wanting to roll it the big box stores have a foam roller that is 1” wide by 4” long make sure the roller is completely saturated and go slow and measure your thickness. The Super pro gun kit has the gun and cup, wet mil gauge, stirring paddle and a secondary nozzle at 90° for $80.00. In the Vegas area we have SOCal Speed shop that carries the product and applies it too. This is meant to be a DIY project it’s easy or any body shop can apply it too."​

I'm also considering doing the same on the floor of my 40, with the additional, initial step of applying ZeroRust (like scrapdaddy did).

Anyway... enough for my first post...

If anyone can chime in with their thoughts regarding what Toyota told me about the clutch and steering - I would appreciate any input - I would like to be able to gauge their level of competence. I'm going to replace the clutch slave regardless, the master appears to be almost new.

Now for some pictures:

Here it is the way I bought it - BTW: It was very difficult to keep in a lane, above 38mph, with the tow bar in place - drifts slightly, but drives very well since I removed it.
FJ40.jpg
PreLoad2.jpg
DSCF0255.jpg
DSCF0254.jpg
DSCF0257.jpg
 
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Very nice, bit of spot surface rust on bolts here and there, put it the garage with a electric radiator to keep it warm, spend an hour on it each night to give your wife some quiet time, and if it gets to late take a sleeping bag so you don't wake your wife up when you work late.


I think you will be ok with this FJ, as most are nick named "Divorce"


That's a keeper? good buy there?

PS> I noticed the cardboard under the FJ on the driveway.......mmmmm, remember the sleeping bag?
 
Thanks!

Yes, I'm quite pleased over all!

But, I the cardboard is there to catch any drips - I won't be sleeping under it! :rolleyes:
 
Great find, hope you enjoy it.


Re dealership:
1) the clutch pushrod on the slave is usually easy to remove... Frozen, possible, but I've always been able to adjust mine, and my truck was rusted out before I replaced the frame, axles, body, hardtop, hatch, and hood.

2) the steering tierods do seize up... That said, penetrating oil, time, and patience can usually free them up.

Most modern mechanics are part replacement experts, they don't tae the time to mess with rusted, frozen things... They'd rather just install new parts than waste time (thus your money) on fxing something that may possibly break in the process. When you're paying them $100 an hour, in their mind, it's not worth soaking something in penetrating oil for a couple days and working it to get it to free up.

I sounds like your wheels are toed out (why it tends it wander). Once you free up the tierods, you can easily adjust the alignment with a couple sewing pins, and a tape measure.
 
Congrats on the new 40!

I found a pipe wrench to be quite helpfull when doing the tre's on my 60.

Good luck
 
Pin Hole(s) in bottom/front of radiator

Well... as I said earlier, I had my radiator flushed... now it's leaking... :crybaby:

Must have flushed all the good stuff out of it!

I don't know if this radiator is original, it looks like it could be, but...

I've searched around MUD for a replacement and almost everything I find is 2009 and older.

Some people recommend 4 core aluminum and others say aluminum isn't good and recommend stock replacements.

I'm going to have mine checked Monday morning and will likely be buying a new radiator.

Are there any radiator sources on MUD besides cruiserdan? I'm going to reach out to him for a quote.

Thanks!
 
Well... as I said earlier, I had my radiator flushed... now it's leaking... :crybaby: Must have flushed all the good stuff out of it! I don't know if this radiator is original, it looks like it could be, but... I've searched around MUD for a replacement and almost everything I find is 2009 and older. Some people recommend 4 core aluminum and others say aluminum isn't good and recommend stock replacements. I'm going to have mine checked Monday morning and will likely be buying a new radiator. Are there any radiator sources on MUD besides cruiserdan? I'm going to reach out to him for a quote. Thanks!

PM Beno. Based in GA and EXCELLENT customer service!
 
Very nice truck, indeed.
I will tell you this about Toyo dealerships--yours is prob one of the better ones. My local won't even touch my '77. They can't(or won't) work on anything on this truck-they told me to take it to other local shops that might be able to handle vintage Toyota rigs. They have no clue about a carbureted engine, they claim they can't get parts for the front knuckle rebuild---blah,blah--this place is useless, should prob call Japan about them, but what good would it do?
You should praise what you have-maybe they will continue to support the heritage---
Riley (jetranger) suggested I start a thread here to announce my new 1978 FJ40.

Some of you may experience deja vu - I previously posted some of this information in the 'classifieds' forum, as posts within my initial "WantToBuy: New Member Looking for and FJ40 in Nevada" thread - I closed that thread and will post new pictures here.

I bought my 40 from Classic Car Liquidators(CCL) in Sherman, TX and, while it took longer than expected for them to get it delivered, they more than made up for the delay by reupholstering the bucket seats and the jump seats - I'm very pleased with my new seats! I'm also very pleased with CCL!

I took delivery of "44-40" (44th wedding anniversary this month and 40 for FJ40) on March 6th and it is everything I was led to believe it would be!

I was led to believe (by the seller and the inspector I hired) that it was virtually rust-free and it is - the rust is extremely minimal and only surface.

I was led to believe it was in great mechanical condition - and I'm very pleased with the overall condition.

I was led to believe the paint was good (no bondo), but not showroom (with some red showing thru) - and it is exactly that - I plan to use my 40 offroad (not crawling), but on very rough Nevada roads regardless - the paint is perfect for me - it looks good - but, not so good that I will worry about scratching it.

The issues reported by the inspector (other than the upholstery that has been replaced) were: watery coolant; a slight oil leak at the front of the oil pan; and the clutch engaged too high.

I took it to the local Toyota dealership on March 11th and asked them to flush the coolant, the diffs and the transfer case. I also asked them to adjust the clutch, do a frontend alignment and tell me where the oil leak was.

They found the plastic coolant canister completely clogged - that's resolved and coolant has been replaced.

They found the front diff fluid was a thick 'mud' consistency - that's resolved.

The back diff and transfer case was fairly clean - but I had them flushed anyway.

The oil is new, as is the transmission fluid.

They said they couldn't adjust the clutch because the slave cylinder adjustment is 'frozen' - I have ordered a replacement and will install and adjust it myself.

They said they couldn't align the frontend because the two front rods (that are used for this purpose) are also "frozen" - 44-40 is safely drive-able, as is, I will deal with this later.

They showed me three minor leaks:
1. The oil pan plug has a very slight leak - it appears that whomever changed the oil didn't put a gasket on the plug - I will deal with this when I next change the oil.
2. The speedometer gear cable needs a new seal at the transmission - I will deal with this eventually.
3. This is the largest repair - the front input shaft seal is leaking on the transmission - unless this leak worsens, I will deal with this when I get to it.

I knew from the outset that there was no headliner in my 40 - I've spoken to s****daddy about Lizard Skin and Monstaliner (magnetman too) and they have both provided excellent input. I am now in touch with Lizard Skin - I plan to spray Lizard Skin "insulation" and "sound control" and then roll on Monstaliner, rather than install headliner (as s****daddy did in his SLOW 71 build.

NOTE: For anyone interested, here's what Lizard Skin told me:
"Thanks for your interest in LizardSkin, Where you can Spray your way to a Cooler, Quieter Ride.
The only prep on a fiberglass surface is make sure it’s clean with no grease, oil or dirt then scuff it very good with a red scotch brite pad then wipe it down with “D” natured alcohol. Tape off any areas you don’t want it on. Spraying is the best way to apply the product there are particles suspended in the product that must be evenly dispersed across the substrate for the best performance and we are looking for two 20 mil coats. Rolling or brushing those ceramic particles tend to hang up in the apparatus and even though the surface gets covered there could be holes in the product so to speak where heat could come through, the next area of concern if you’re not careful rolling can lay the product on too thick per coat so you have to be patient and measure your coats to be at 20 mils. If you are wanting to roll it the big box stores have a foam roller that is 1” wide by 4” long make sure the roller is completely saturated and go slow and measure your thickness. The Super pro gun kit has the gun and cup, wet mil gauge, stirring paddle and a secondary nozzle at 90° for $80.00. In the Vegas area we have SOCal Speed shop that carries the product and applies it too. This is meant to be a DIY project it’s easy or any body shop can apply it too."
I'm also considering doing the same on the floor of my 40, with the additional, initial step of applying ZeroRust (like s****daddy did).

Anyway... enough for my first post...

If anyone can chime in with their thoughts regarding what Toyota told me about the clutch and steering - I would appreciate any input - I would like to be able to gauge their level of competence. I'm going to replace the clutch slave regardless, the master appears to be almost new.

Now for some pictures:

Here it is the way I bought it - BTW: It was very difficult to keep in a lane, above 38mph, with the tow bar in place - drifts slightly, but drives very well since I removed it.
 
Agreed - I'm not talking them down - I've always had good service from them on my Tundra - being a 40 newbie, I was trying to gauge the mechanics expertise with 40s.

The service writer told me that Jorge is the only mechanic they have that has any idea what a carbureter looks like.

I was pleased with Jorge's work and his explanation... but, with me knowing very little about a 40 mechanically...

Thanks for praising them!
 
Thx!

I've finally broken the rod loose from the TREs - lotta heat - lotta penetrating oil and a lotta pipe wrench!

Thanks all!
 
nice 40 ... same colour and year as mine ... oh, and they all need pampering in my opinion ... anything originating in NA is now at least 30 years old ... enjoy ...
:cheers:
 

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