Power Door Lock Problem - Driver Door (2 Viewers)

[dwells50]

maybe not a bad problem

We got our 1997 LX450 in 2003, and the driver side power lock did not work then. It was on my list to fix, but soon I realized that it was hard to accidentally lock the keys inside. I never fixed it, and we have never had to call AAA to get us in! (the keyless remote won't unlock it, of course)

 

[josepo]

Had the same problem, rear driver's side... only took motor correct alignment. It has oval holes, you gotta find the position where it fully locks/unlocks correclty and voilà. Of course, it's priceless and only requires basic tools.

 

[citadel]

anyone try and buy the actuator from Dan?

 

[cartercd]

From Socalsuv on the 100s forum:
"So I did find the lock assembly cheapest on CruiserParts.net for $169. I called my Lexus dealership to get a price on the assembly just for my own edification. They sell the assembly for $330 and would probably charge $500 total for them to do the job."

I suspect the 80 series actuator is in the same ballpark. Even with a smart shopper discount, the actuator is an expensive item to replace.

 

[unclegit]

Anyone figure out a better solution than welding nails onto the Mabuchi part yet ?

I've 3 doors doing this and it's bugging me.

The OEM motor is a "Jeco" part with "7H213" stamped on the plastic

 

[goneballistic]

crap NONE of our doors are locking or unlocking.

when you push the lock switch you hear a little grinding in the drivers door and nothing locks/unlocks.


am I reading this right that the Lexus LX450 and the land cruiser door actuators are not the same?

 

[unclegit]

I just got a quote from American 'Yota - the door actuator was $72.62 with mud discount...

Assuming poor Jim at the end of the phone managed to wade through my half drunk Irish accent and interpret my incoherent mumblings into the correct Toyota part

Quote was for a '97 Land Cruiser.

am I reading this right that the Lexus LX450 and the land cruiser door actuators are not the same?

The first link was to a 100 series replacement not an 80 - I think the LX and the LC are the same across the 80 series which is the actuator in the pics in post #19

 

[avhouten]

NEED HELP!!! My driver door suddenly stays locked - and there is no way at all to unlock it.

if I use the powerlock, it moves a bit, but doesn't unlock the door. I also can't unlock the door with the key. I partly ripped the cover off (partly, as I can't fully pull it with a closed door) - I can touch/move the lock and door wires - but still unable to unlock.

How can I ever open the driver door again???

THANKS!

 

[medtro]

This might help.

 

[tblume]

NEED HELP!!! My driver door suddenly stays locked - and there is no way at all to unlock it.

if I use the powerlock, it moves a bit, but doesn't unlock the door. I also can't unlock the door with the key. I partly ripped the cover off (partly, as I can't fully pull it with a closed door) - I can touch/move the lock and door wires - but still unable to unlock.

How can I ever open the driver door again???

THANKS!

Just had this happen last weekend, my problem was a broken spring that is supposed to keep tension on the handle/lock mechanism inside the latch. the first picture in the above thread (I think) shows the top of the mechanism; I had to peel the top of the door panel off and use a wedge to allow a probe and light down inside the channel for the glass. With the probe (12" screwdriver) I was able to push the mechanism together and open the door using the handle like normal.

of course I have no pictures so my anecdotal evidence is worthless....

However the spring is shown in a picture in the FSM that I will take a picture of now and post in a bit..FSM picture BO5179; involving where to grease the latch/lock, in BO, page 12.
(edit: sorry, digi-cam batt just crashed and charger is at work)

Anybody able to come through with a picture? I can't get back to the office till middle of next week.

 

[tblume]

got it after all

seems downloading takes minimal DCV, here you go: my broken spring was in the top left corner per the picture, I was able to source one at an industrial fastener supply.

HTH

 

[avhouten]

Thanks Copper State Cruisers #005 for the link - that exactly describes te problem and the fix.

Although it wasn't easy - I could eventually unlatch the lock after I partially pried open the door cover. Didn't have to remove the seat though. I actually opened the passenger side first to figure out how the lock mechanism should work - that might be a tip for others. It is hard to explain - even if you have pictures.

I indeed placed a spring back to pull the mechanism up. Lousy design. Oddly - no parts of the old spring could be found inside the door panel anywhere.

Bottom line: be persistent - this problem can be resolved. But it sure ain't a fun job...

 

[LCHardriver_02]

I just wanted to let the 80s guys know that there is another group buy going on for the door lock motors in the 100 section.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...a-lexus-door-lock-actuator-group-buy-new.html

 

[jtmosca]

Another Option

So I read through this thread and the full 13 page thread in the 100 section. Buried within the 100 section thread was a post by "ubiquityman" who had success by taking apart the small motor and cleaning it. Since I didn't have a new motor on hand and I'm not even sure which one to order for the 80 series and I'm not as talented as "cartercd" to weld a nail to the end of a motor shaft, I figured I would give it a shot.

It seems to have worked. After 2 years of classic symtoms, the lock is working great now. It appears that grease and crud had collected itself onto the commutators and brushes of the armature. With a little WD40, paper towel and a small screw driver I was able to clean it up substantially. Here are some before and after pictures to help you if you want to try it yourself. Note all the grease/crud on the paper towel in the background. I'm definitely gonna go this route on the other locks as they have issues. If I find one where the brushes are too wore out, then I'll try ordering another motor. I hope this info helps...

 

[chairborne]

Anyone figure out a better solution than welding nails onto the Mabuchi part yet ?

I've 3 doors doing this and it's bugging me.

The OEM motor is a "Jeco" part with "7H213" stamped on the plastic

I did. I had one bad actuator, ordered the 100 series motors to fix it. I simply roughed up the shaft with my dremel, and brazed the gear on with a small torch and some regular solder. It seemed pretty dang stout and it works like a champ now, so I call it success. You can pick up a simple torch and roll of solder for about ten bucks and the process is dead simple.

 

[jtmosca]

Anyone figure out a better solution than welding nails onto the Mabuchi part yet ?

I've 3 doors doing this and it's bugging me.

The OEM motor is a "Jeco" part with "7H213" stamped on the plastic

Yup, just clean it! See my above post and pictures...

 

[bruja blanca]

Excellent idea, thanks!

 

[nemoblackdog]

Looking at the above pics of the motor brushes, those are probably at least 75% worn away at this point. Given how old these trucks are, you may have given yourself a few more years of service by just cleaning them up. Nice!

When I replaced the motor in one of mine, the old brushes were down to zero.

 

[eplazajennings]

Long Shaft Motors Available

For those curious, I just found some long shaft motors for sale on eBay. Should solve the problem and the output shaft being too short. I'm not exactly sure how they will fit- but it will be real easy to cut them down if they are too long.

part number is FC-280PC-22125

ebay link is here

 

[Texasknowhow]

Hey guys, I had the same problem and made a quick video of taking the actuator out, cleaning it and re-installing. The video may be helpful to those just reading this thread and who have not ventured into the doors on their cruiser yet. Cleaning mine has made it work again. Take care, Clay - Video here: http://youtu.be/V7_QtHY7BBo