Builds What did you do to your Land Cruiser/Toyota/Lexus 4X4 this week? (19 Viewers)

[sj]

Headlight Buzzer in my 60

I did this, I have no idea why. I have never left the lights on, I have a radio shack .5 mile from my house. I was bored and had $3. Took 5 mins, including travel time.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/393928-cheap-buzzer-headlight-mod.html


Sean

 

[Motleyone]

1) I got the tall skinnies 255/80r17s put on the 80 with FJC wheels. I might need spacers to push them out a bit.
2) I got my OME lift on order. The front J springs are on back order 3-4 weeks.
3) Trying to find an Aussie Locker in stock with no luck.
4) Got a MT front tube with the small stinger bumper on order from MT.
5) The wife said if I order anything else or spend money I will be in deep s***.

Once everything comes in and I get it put together I will post pictures. The truck will be ready for the winter wheeling season.

 

[inkpot]

1) I got the tall skinnies 255/80r17s put on the 80 with FJC wheels. I might need spacers to push them out a bit.
2) I got my OME lift on order. The front J springs are on back order 3-4 weeks.
3) Trying to find an Aussie Locker in stock with no luck.
4) Got a MT front tube with the small stinger bumper on order from MT.
5) The wife said if I order anything else or spend money I will be in deep s***.

Once everything comes in and I get it put together I will post pictures. The truck will be ready for the winter wheeling season.

Did you try ordering directly from Aussielocker.com? John

 

[Motleyone]

That's like walking around the house looking for your keys when they are in your hand. I will call them in the morning.

 

[Chuy]

1) I got the tall skinnies 255/80r17s put on the 80 with FJC wheels. I might need spacers to push them out a bit.
2) I got my OME lift on order. The front J springs are on back order 3-4 weeks.
3) Trying to find an Aussie Locker in stock with no luck.
4) Got a MT front tube with the small stinger bumper on order from MT.
5) The wife said if I order anything else or spend money I will be in deep s***.

Once everything comes in and I get it put together I will post pictures. The truck will be ready for the winter wheeling season.

Very nice I love my skinnies, the spacers made things even better! I went with the Tools R Us install recommendations and had no issues or vibes. Torque values still holding after the trip and 200+ miles.

 

[inkpot]

That's like walking around the house looking for your keys when they are in your hand. I will call them in the morning.

You can also order directly online. I put one unit into my shopping cart to test availability, and it looked like they were available. I think they only sell direct, no other vendors. John

 

[Motleyone]

Got it ordered. Chuy what spacers did you go with and what words of wisdom did you get from Tools?

 

[Chuy]

Got it ordered. Chuy what spacers did you go with and what words of wisdom did you get from Tools?

I went with 1.25" Trail Gear Spacers, I read a every thread I could find here on spacers. Tools commented on how to torque them and using 3 tapered lug nuts to center the tire onto the spacer. I cleaned off the mating surface the best I could and cleaned everything with brake cleaner. I will let you know if any wheels fall off

When using spacers with hubcentric wheels: Simply carry 3 acorn/taper lug nuts, slide the wheel on, install the taper nuts on every other stud and snug them, install washer nuts on the other studs and properly torque, remove the taper nuts and replace with washer type. Works great, has been many times, thousands of trail miles, on FF '80 rigs, with big tires, zero shakes or failures.

I would never use loc-tite on any wheel lug, makes retorqure check worthless, cant detect issues. If properly installed, clean, flat mating surfaces, properly torqued, there is zero need for loc-tite.

Doing the final tightening on lug nuts with an impact is a very bad practice. The proper torque for conical lug nuts is 109 ft-lbs and 76 ft-lbs for the flange type. Tightening them more than that or unevenly will weaken the mounting connection and stretch, weaken the studs.

Follow the spacer manufactures directions when installing them. For mine it was, clean the hub mounting surface, install the spacer with the conical nuts, torque to 109 ft-lbs, install the wheel and torque to 76 ft-lbs. Drive ~100 miles, pull the wheels and retorque the spacer nuts.

Lock-tite is a great product, but lug nuts aren't a good application. A properly installed lug nuts will not loosen, fall of on their own. Most all cases can be traced to stretched, damaged studs, under or over torqued nuts, dirty/rusty/even thickly painted hub mounting surface. In other words the nut doesn't turn, if the studs are stretched they stretch more or debris, uneven mounting surface allows the mounted part to move reducing the clamping force. Once it moves it's game over, next time it will move easier, repeat, shortly the wheel is off.

If lock-tite is used retorque readings are useless, the nut is glued to the stud, it could be 25 ft-lbs and you would never know. Also if it is used and the nut needs to be removed, the torque needed is likely to damage, twist, stretch the stud, possibly leading to issues later.

 

[murf]

got some pails of the juice

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

got some pails of the juice

Lets do some real time testing before I sell the 100

 

[murf]

Lets do some real time testing before I sell the 100

I was hoping youd ask

Our testing is my only real barometer of comparison. Im interested to see if I can at least keep up instead of slowly falling behind the 4.7. Close...but cant ever get ahead of the 100 on those steep long uphill grades.

 

[medtro]

Not mine. I got to help with the install.

[URL="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/medtro/ih8mud/CSC/what_I_did/ARB1.jpg"] [/URL]

[URL="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/medtro/ih8mud/CSC/what_I_did/ARB2.jpg"] [/URL]

 

[Pitch]

My new to me 80 got:

1) New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and PCV valve. It is much smoother and peppier now
2) Mounted up some well used 33x10.50's on the stock suspension (2" lift coming soon)
3) Driving lights mounted up front (Hella 500's)
4) Thule rack installed
5) Headlight buzzer mod.
6) Front bumper bracket "tabbed" so that it will no longer shake, making #3 work better.
7) I found some nice tie down anchor points hiding under the carpet in the cargo area that I am assuming the PO installed.

And at the end of the week, a front axle service, timing check, valve adjustment, and front brake pads. I am parking it till then as the birf's and wheel bearings are getting louder and louder...

 

[murf]

Welcome Pitch! Can you post up a picture of your new to you ride?

My new to me 80 got:

1) New plugs, cap, rotor, wires, and PCV valve. It is much smoother and peppier now
2) Mounted up some well used 33x10.50's on the stock suspension (2" lift coming soon)
3) Driving lights mounted up front (Hella 500's)
4) Thule rack installed
5) Headlight buzzer mod.
6) Front bumper bracket "tabbed" so that it will no longer shake, making #3 work better.
7) I found some nice tie down anchor points hiding under the carpet in the cargo area that I am assuming the PO installed.

And at the end of the week, a front axle service, timing check, valve adjustment, and front brake pads. I am parking it till then as the birf's and wheel bearings are getting louder and louder...

 

[firestopper]

Fixed the 40's stalling issues. Found a loose electrical connection on the vacuum switch preventing the fuel cut solenoid from operating. Ten minutes and no $$ required

 

[inkpot]

Fixed the 40's stalling issues. Found a loose electrical connection on the vacuum switch preventing the fuel cut solenoid from operating. Ten minutes and no $$ required

Good job!! It sure feels nice when it works out this way. John

 

[inkpot]

Re-tested cooling system.

On the first scouting trip up to Payson a couple of months ago, my Scan Gauge II was showing very high coolant temps on all the steep hills on the highway. I had to shut off the A/C, and it was still hot. That was with my souped up blue fan clutch. Could not really find a problem to fix, so switched to a newly souped up black hub. Made the same road trip two weeks later and had the same results. So, I ordered a brand new Koyorad 1918A. It is identical to my OEM unit. after getting it installed, the temps seemed to be noticeably better around town, but that wasn't where I really had the problems. So, Sunday I made another run up to Payson in nearly the same conditions as the first two runs. I have my original souped up blue hub on the fan. It ran great. Nice and cool with the A/C on all day. Only time I saw the temps over 200 was when I nailed it up to about 5000 rpm in 2nd gear after I got bogged down behind one trailer rig trying to pass another one. I'm so happy with the performance that I did another similar run up to the Sierra Ancha's the next day. https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-tral-to...67358-test-drive-richs-80-_v2-9-2-2013-a.html Had similar good cool results. My A/C seems to be running cooler too. John

 

[firestopper]

Good job!! It sure feels nice when it works out this way. John

Thanks John,
honestly, this forum has guided me through a lot of trouble shooting situations.
As my rig (engine) is completely stock/smogged it does require a little digging in search mode. Did I mention I was able to download the entire 1981 emissions manual from this awesome forum

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Re-tested cooling system.

On the first scouting trip up to Payson a couple of months ago, my Scan Gauge II was showing very high coolant temps on all the steep hills on the highway. I had to shut off the A/C, and it was still hot. That was with my souped up blue fan clutch. Could not really find a problem to fix, so switched to a newly souped up black hub. Made the same road trip two weeks later and had the same results. So, I ordered a brand new Koyorad 1918A. It is identical to my OEM unit. after getting it installed, the temps seemed to be noticeably better around town, but that wasn't where I really had the problems. So, Sunday I made another run up to Payson in nearly the same conditions as the first two runs. I have my original souped up blue hub on the fan. It ran great. Nice and cool with the A/C on all day. Only time I saw the temps over 200 was when I nailed it up to about 5000 rpm in 2nd gear after I got bogged down behind one trailer rig trying to pass another one. I'm so happy with the performance that I did another similar run up to the Sierra Ancha's the next day. https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-tral-to...67358-test-drive-richs-80-_v2-9-2-2013-a.html Had similar good cool results. My A/C seems to be running cooler too. John

I hear meth is the answer

 

[murf]

I hear meth is the answer

I know Phil is kidding, but to clarify (because someone asked me after the post):

It doesnt make the cooling system run cooler, just the air intake temps.