While I'm pulling my gas tank, I'm replacing all the fuel hoses and related items. I'm going to follow the FSM test to check out the CC and other parts. If the canister is bad, can I bypass it altogether or retrofit something else? It's an expensive piece to replace ($350-$425 from quick searching). Emissions testing in my area is very minimal so that wouldn't be an issue.
Charcoal canister bypass? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bobthebuilder
- Start date
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Retrofit.
AutoZone part VC-120. Less than $40 still i think.
You'll probably need to remove the lower strap on the charcoal canister bracket to make it fit, because it is larger.
Works great.
If you get a cloud of fumes when you take off the gas cap, you need a new charcoal canister.
This is serious. Some people get to the point of boiling gas and ruptured tanks.
AutoZone part VC-120. Less than $40 still i think.
You'll probably need to remove the lower strap on the charcoal canister bracket to make it fit, because it is larger.
Works great.
If you get a cloud of fumes when you take off the gas cap, you need a new charcoal canister.
This is serious. Some people get to the point of boiling gas and ruptured tanks.
^^ What he said. Here's the post I think... Good luck.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/412261-charcoal-canister-great-option.html
powermad
%##@*&^%
To test the CC do you just see if it passes air through it?
I'm chasing a low power problem and am noticing that the tank seems to have a ton of pressure in it after driving for a half hr or so.
Low power even for the 3fe.
I could barely pull a long grade yesterday, had to drop it to low and bury the throttle.
Wound up pulling it at around 6K and just barely going.
It was also over 90 deg out and I had the AC on full blast.
When back on level ground it was very slow to accelerate, had to keep it in 2nd just to have some sort of throttle response without constantly downshifting.
I got it home and noticed how much pressure was in the tank.
Drove it today and it's fine other than the tank is pressurized again.
It has acted goofy twice before, but on flat ground. wouldn't accelerate past 2k no matter what gear and would barely move out of it's own way.
Couple hrs later all is fine.
Picking up a fuel pump strainer tomorrow as well.
I'm chasing a low power problem and am noticing that the tank seems to have a ton of pressure in it after driving for a half hr or so.
Low power even for the 3fe.
I could barely pull a long grade yesterday, had to drop it to low and bury the throttle.
Wound up pulling it at around 6K and just barely going.
It was also over 90 deg out and I had the AC on full blast.
When back on level ground it was very slow to accelerate, had to keep it in 2nd just to have some sort of throttle response without constantly downshifting.
I got it home and noticed how much pressure was in the tank.
Drove it today and it's fine other than the tank is pressurized again.
It has acted goofy twice before, but on flat ground. wouldn't accelerate past 2k no matter what gear and would barely move out of it's own way.
Couple hrs later all is fine.
Picking up a fuel pump strainer tomorrow as well.
Yup! Autozone part # VC-120 works like a charm.
- Thread starter
- #6
This is why I like you guys! Thanks!
Or if you have no emissions, vent-to-atmosphere. Plug off the connection to the intake and put a lawn mower fuel filter for the other end off the hard line and call it good.
But I never said that.....
But I never said that.....
VC120 or refurbish the original:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/239299-charcoal-canister-modification-need-help.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/239299-charcoal-canister-modification-need-help.html
I might know someone that went Beno's route, plugged the manifold side, and routed the tank output to the hardline. No more issues. lol
Or if you have no emissions, vent-to-atmosphere. Plug off the connection to the intake and put a lawn mower fuel filter for the other end off the hard line and call it good.
But I never said that.....
Even better. I think I'll go this route!
powermad
%##@*&^%
Yes, 6 comes after 5.
1st gear + pedal to the floor = 6k
Needle was maxed out.
My wife kept asking if I was trying to blow it up.
When we got down the other side and got to the light she freaked from all the smoke coming off the brakes, thought the engine was on fire.
Had brake fade coming down and she didn't want to stop.
But that's another issue.
1st gear + pedal to the floor = 6k
Needle was maxed out.
My wife kept asking if I was trying to blow it up.
When we got down the other side and got to the light she freaked from all the smoke coming off the brakes, thought the engine was on fire.
Had brake fade coming down and she didn't want to stop.
But that's another issue.
Wow. OK then, I was wrong. 6000 rpm. I apologize.
Sounds like you were.
Please email me in advance if you ever come down to Southern Oregon...
so I can stay the hell off the roads.
powermad
%##@*&^%
Long grade, 2 lane road with no shoulder, 20 cars behind me, 3 adults, 2 kids and a dog and over 90 deg out.
It wasn't overheating and had good oil pressure so I just kept into it till it either made it to the top or scattered.
Getting parked till I get a few things straightened out.
Runaway 6000 lb rig down a long switchback ain't cool.
Hot weather has brought out all the gremlins it seems.
Oil cooler coolant hose sprang a leak as well.
It wasn't overheating and had good oil pressure so I just kept into it till it either made it to the top or scattered.
Getting parked till I get a few things straightened out.
Runaway 6000 lb rig down a long switchback ain't cool.
Hot weather has brought out all the gremlins it seems.
Oil cooler coolant hose sprang a leak as well.
Ah; hang in there.
Hijack off.
Hijack off.
Or if you have no emissions, vent-to-atmosphere. Plug off the connection to the intake and put a lawn mower fuel filter for the other end off the hard line and call it good.
But I never said that.....
What kind of lawn mower fuel filter we talking about? Like the little bulb VW ones?
Just a cheapie $2 unit from Autozone.
