new gears, bad vibs and whine?? (1 Viewer)

[Letsgomoreplaces]

Driveshaft grrr

At what speed do you hear the noise?
On, float, or off throttle?
How much lift?
Stock shafts?
have you removed each shaft seperately?

 

[TexasD90]

I hear the noise with no throttle, at pretty much all speeds. We have not run it without the shafts, but we did run it on the lift with each axle not turning. Roughly 4.5" lift.

 

[TexasD90]

now they think its the coupler in the transfer case which is $$$$$. We ordered a rebuilt case for $1600. They said they would take it back if it doesn't fix our problem.

 

[ThreeEyedBandit]

now they think its the coupler in the transfer case which is $$$$$. We ordered a rebuilt case for $1600. They said they would take it back if it doesn't fix our problem.

I don't see how it could be the viscous coupler since it isn't doing anything unless your turning. But you never know at this point. I know my Tcase has always had a whine in it, and just assumed that since it's turning faster it would be slightly louder than it was.

Matt

 

[Delancy]

Pull the VC, if that's suspect. You won't miss it.

If you need a good one, I'll send one for free.

 

[powderpig]

I do not get much on Mud any more, My bad. Just do not have the time. I stumbled across this. If at any time people contact me in a PM I will try and get back, typically in the mornings as I do not have time to set at a computer during the day.

With out seeing patterns of the gears, it is hard to diagnosis a ring and pinion problem. But typically what sounds that the OP is giving out, it that the drive shaft angles are not good or the diffs are not set up properly(I recently have seen a couple of sets of gears that have been sent to me, with improper set up,but the shop owner says they were, one was so bad that the front housing had groove marks from the pinion). This is not a t-case issue(unless it could be part of several issues)
I have not seen mentioned if the Wrench/Tech had taken the angles of the drive flange of the Diffs and the out put flange angles of the t-case and seen if they are even close to proper. +-2 degrees for a straight shaft. If not then I would suggest this first. There has been tons of suggestions on how to do stuff. Go back to the basics, measure the angles. Work with the drive shaft that is proper for the angles.
I do not believe a non CV drive shaft will work with your lift, I may be wrong. I have not seen mention of a CV drive shaft being installed on your cruiser.
I still really do not know what the problem was with Delancy's front. But that was the first suspension I have seen like that one. Also why my drive shaft works well and his replica did not. I do not fully buy the slip yoke cover grooving as the reason. But stranger things have happened.
Other diagnostic tools I use some time to trace down noises, Chassis Ears. A device that allows one to attach several sensors to different areas of the vehicle to locate the sound. This could help the shop find the problem when all else fails.

Constant whines can be had from the t-case, usually higher pitch, not low. Rumbles, de-excel rumbles are not a t-case thing unless you find lots of metal in the t-case when draining. I do not know why the shop did not throw in some 90-140 to see if the sound changes(if sound changes, problem found, if not look else where). A well used diagnostic for days gone by(maybe the techs are kids and do not know the old tricks). Cost less than pulling the t-case and going through it. Same with the new technology, chassis ears.
One other thing, leaving the truck on the lift does not allow the truck to shift and reproduce the sounds the same as on the road. It does not load the drive train the same way,chassis ears are the way to go when trying to find sounds you do can not find on the drive train.

Fun and games with big lifts, as with stated by Christo and Scotia. I like Nitro gears, I do not like their seals, nor their crush sleeves they are both junk. I use, I do not really like the solid spacer much, but i do install them after long conversations. I am sure I missed some things, I will look again tomorrow morning.

 

[rockrod]

Honestly I get a little bit a gear train whine out of my t-case. it's always done it and i don't really worry about because it's just the way the case is designed. 80 series t-cases are ridiculously over-built for these trucks and are highly reliable.

I tend to agree with powderpig on this issue. It really sounds like it's drive shaft angle related. Those angles must be spot on and if something is off, it's only going to get more pronounced as drive shaft speed increases - be it from road speed or from a gear ratio swap to lower gears. It very could be that the noise would have been there prior to the gear swap, but the OP never drove the rig fast enough to get the drive shafts spinning at the speed needed to induce the noise. Now with a lower gear ratio set, the drive shaft speed is reached at a lower road speed and the noise is more pronounced.

Pull the shafts, and have a drive line swap inspect and balance. Also, a 4+ inch lift is going to need a front CV or a conversion to part time. Compare the pinion to t-case angles as well and adjust as needed.

 

[Delancy]

I do not get much on Mud any more, My bad.

We forgive you, but don't let it happen again. Haha.

Everyone will argue with whatever a pro says, anyway.

I still really do not know what the problem was with Delancy's front......

Nothing that throwing money at couldn't fix.



A paid education and, in retrospect, reiteration of the old "hard to polish a turd" adage.

Also why my drive shaft works well and his replica did not. I do not fully buy the slip yoke

I'm in no position to sell it to you.

Fully compressed, your shaft was 7/8" longer than the replica, and it appeared to me that was due to binding that occurred at the slip yoke, where the sway bar had contacted.

It may not have been and yours was a custom built shaft, so the splines that were visually seen, extending past the slip yoke, may have been due to, I can't say, but ultimately think the overall length had more bearing on, than anything.

The shaft depicted above is ~1 3/4" (don't quote me there. will update with exact, for posterity) longer than an OE 80 front drive shaft and length determined by Jesse at High Angle, based on measurements I provided him, so think the distance the arms pushed the axle forward, coupled with whatever the driveline length would increase at angle, and the fact the suppliers of the arms sell drive shaft spacers are all good indicators that length had a lot to do with the initial oddity.

Once all was measured and discussed with HA, the best solution he could offer was the double, double, and it worked, but, for the money, I'd gave been better to have swapped housings with the SE arms to maintain AWD, vibration free operation.

Thanks again for the services rendered, Robbie. The best money I've spent.

 

[TexasD90]

I'm sure that it is my ignorance, but I don't understand how it could be in the drive lines when I have driven it on the road without the front shaft and without the rear shaft. Seems like the noise would have gone away when I pulled the shaft that was causing the problem. What am I missing?

 

[scottryana]

You have eliminated the drive shafts.

It is in the axles, transmission or tcase. Do you have a video of the noise?

 

[TexasD90]

No sir, but I am going to get it tomorrow and I can make one.

 

[Rusco]

Still pretty curious here.......

 

[TexasD90]

Me to!! Didn't get it picked up today. As soon as I do I'll get a video up with the noise.

 

[Sc0-]

Bumpity Bump, progress?

 

[js93cruiser]

Sound transfers through metal a rediculous amount, I'm putting money on shafts or shaft angles, it's probably both shafts... When I had me 93 with a 6" no cv shafts it sounded like the world was ending every time I let off the throttle. Front cv shaft helped but still there, replaced rear with cv, noise gone!

 

[TexasJack]

If you want to really solve this problem without continuing to throw money at it, borrow a set of chasis ears or go to a mechanic that has a set.

Mike Frisbee is part of Lone Star Land Cruisers and owns an 80 series with a Slee lift. I took my truck to him and he used the chasis ears to specifically locate a noise I was having in my drive train.

Nothing sounds the same on the rack and while removing and adding drive shafts should eliminate causes, nothing works as well as chasis ears. I strongly recommend them. After using them, you will quickly eliminate areas and pin the sound down to a single area....like the front or rear nose of your transfer case, one of the diffs or one of the drive shafts.

Trust me on this one that it is well worth the money.

After that, if you have problems with your set up, Robbie Antonson (PowderPig) is the best guy in the country to solve problems of this type. He rebuilt the rear nose of my transfer case and did a super job on it. He also helped me identify a problem with my rear drive shaft that was also causing problems. Great guy and very trust-worthy.

 

[plutonius]

How do you put chassis ears on a driveshaft? Not trying to stir it up, just wondering - i have DS angle issues too. Are there wireless chassis ears?

 

[TexasD90]

I am going a different direction at this point. The guys that have been working on the transfer case pulled the VC and replaced front and rear bearings. Noise is still there. They are charging me $0.00 because they couldn't figure out the problem. I give them a big thanks for being honest and doing the right thing in the end. I am picking it up tomorrow and I will measure drive line angles and see if I come up with anything decisive there. After that I guess I will have to pay someone else to look through the diffs. So far this hasn't cost any extra money, but shipping diffs and having them rebuilt is going to be very expensive. What's the best way to ship a diff housing?

 

[Delancy]

5 gallon bucket and duct tape.

 

[Fireman]

6 gallon is better!

White Trash of the Elwood Chapter, TORC4x4.org, Cottonland Cruisers.