Can't wait to see numbers.
Been sourcing parts for an LSX swap, but love the idea of slapping in a turbo kit instead.
Would like to see the dyno test.
Builds Turbo 1FZFE FZJ80 Build (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter NKP Garage
- Start date
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Would like to see the dyno test.
They are waiting on the machine shop for the head and block I think last time I heard. It was up and running but I think it had a cooling system problem and popped the radiator before they dyno'd it, so the owner is going all out.
- Thread starter
- #205
Yup. Still waiting on the head and block to come back from the machine shop that is building them. This will be the last time I let a customer choose his own machine shop.
What was the go with the machine shop? A bit slow?
Also, have you ended up using that stub manifold I sent over?
I just got my block back from a line bore and grout fill - it's filled to the welsh plugs so should still have plenty of cooling for street miles. The latest engine analyser simulation that my engine builder ran is saying 1600hp at just over 7000rpm and 40 psi - and the cams are good for as far as I dare to rev it! (i'm thinking that 7800 is a good point to stop.
One thing on the motor machining/assembly that I haven't mentioned before that may be of benefit - test fit the head studs into the block and fit drilled spacers or gudgeon pins to simulate the head being present - then torque up to the final value. (it's a budget impersonation of a torque plate that gives 90-95% the benefit at 5% the cost of having a full length torque plate made up)
(I can't say as yet how the 1FZ distorts with the studs in as we haven't got that far with my motor yet)
Then measure the bores to see if there is much out of round in the bores caused by the stud tension. In some motors there can be more than enough out of round to affect ring seal.
If there is an amount of distortion that the engine builder thinks is too much, you can then hone again with the studs installed to counteract it.
Your truck should make a ton of HP. One thing I like is the use of the stock manifolds and a quality J pipe for the turbo manifold. I recon that setup will flow even better than a runner style turbo manifold - nowhere near enough people do it that way - especially as the 1FZ stock headers are so good to begin with.
Whilst i'm here I'll just leave a picture of the new 1FZ adjustable cam gears that I'm now producing - they are an aluminum CNC anodised centre fitted with a machined, new OEM Toyota gear and stainless fasteners. They have 10 degrees adv and ret cam timing adjustment. They are intended mainly for adjusting the timing of custom cams in relatively modified 1FZs to get it perfect, but they may also give some benefit in mildly modded motors - I would be interested in supplying a couple to guys for testing purposes - if it makes a difference you can have it at cost, if the motor makes no additional power or doesn't result in any measurable, just send it back for zero $$!
If anyone's interested drop me a PM. (if moderators want to delete this shameless plug - fair enough! I literally have only just begun to produce these so haven't got as far as working out final pricing or actually promoting them - I will be doing that sometime in the new year)
Also, have you ended up using that stub manifold I sent over?
I just got my block back from a line bore and grout fill - it's filled to the welsh plugs so should still have plenty of cooling for street miles. The latest engine analyser simulation that my engine builder ran is saying 1600hp at just over 7000rpm and 40 psi - and the cams are good for as far as I dare to rev it! (i'm thinking that 7800 is a good point to stop.
One thing on the motor machining/assembly that I haven't mentioned before that may be of benefit - test fit the head studs into the block and fit drilled spacers or gudgeon pins to simulate the head being present - then torque up to the final value. (it's a budget impersonation of a torque plate that gives 90-95% the benefit at 5% the cost of having a full length torque plate made up)
(I can't say as yet how the 1FZ distorts with the studs in as we haven't got that far with my motor yet)
Then measure the bores to see if there is much out of round in the bores caused by the stud tension. In some motors there can be more than enough out of round to affect ring seal.
If there is an amount of distortion that the engine builder thinks is too much, you can then hone again with the studs installed to counteract it.
Your truck should make a ton of HP. One thing I like is the use of the stock manifolds and a quality J pipe for the turbo manifold. I recon that setup will flow even better than a runner style turbo manifold - nowhere near enough people do it that way - especially as the 1FZ stock headers are so good to begin with.
Whilst i'm here I'll just leave a picture of the new 1FZ adjustable cam gears that I'm now producing - they are an aluminum CNC anodised centre fitted with a machined, new OEM Toyota gear and stainless fasteners. They have 10 degrees adv and ret cam timing adjustment. They are intended mainly for adjusting the timing of custom cams in relatively modified 1FZs to get it perfect, but they may also give some benefit in mildly modded motors - I would be interested in supplying a couple to guys for testing purposes - if it makes a difference you can have it at cost, if the motor makes no additional power or doesn't result in any measurable, just send it back for zero $$!
If anyone's interested drop me a PM. (if moderators want to delete this shameless plug - fair enough!
I literally have only just begun to produce these so haven't got as far as working out final pricing or actually promoting them - I will be doing that sometime in the new year)
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That was me. When I had the 4.56's, on the dyno it pumped out 1174Nm and 241.2Kw at the rear wheels. The torque was bloody awesome and when taking off from a standstill, it almost jumped off the line. The problem was, the extra power was made the gears too short which was why I swapped back to stock gears.
With the 4.11's fitted, along with a few fueling mods, it pumped out 747Nm and 306.7Kw at the rear wheels. It was so much nicer to drive and I guess the perceived loss of torque was made for by the increase in power.
Now I have converted it to auto (A442F), the gearing is a little taller again. Technically, if I go back to the 4.56's, I'll be back to the gearing I had with the manual box. However, they way it is now is pretty damn good anyway. It still goes hard and gives decent fuel economy on the highway, thanks to the overdrive. I'm thinking of going from 35s back to 33s so I will gain some torque back right there.
I'm not sure what gearbox the 80s is running in this project. If it's manual, I'd say stock gearing would be ideal. If it's auto, stock or 4.56's would work either way. The good thing with the auto is it smooths the power delivery and doesn't have the harshness of the notchy manual gearbox. I would certainly be driving it for a bit before making any gearing changes, that's for sure.
Guzzla,
Do you do a bunch of towing? I can't imagine any point in time when 1174nm (865ft/lbs) would care at all what kind of gears you have. lol. Even at 747nm (550ft/lbs) and 306kw (410awhp) You are well over 3 times the stock power for a 1FZFE.
I just can't imagine needing to go from 35's to 33's given all the extra power. How is the torque curve? Do you have the most current dyno graph? Is it all up high in the power band?
Better yet can we see some videos of it doing some rolls on the highway?
Do you do a bunch of towing? I can't imagine any point in time when 1174nm (865ft/lbs) would care at all what kind of gears you have. lol. Even at 747nm (550ft/lbs) and 306kw (410awhp) You are well over 3 times the stock power for a 1FZFE.
I just can't imagine needing to go from 35's to 33's given all the extra power. How is the torque curve? Do you have the most current dyno graph? Is it all up high in the power band?
Better yet can we see some videos of it doing some rolls on the highway?
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I don't do a lot of real hard off roading any more, mostly long distance touring stuff and I never tow. So I don't really have a need for the big tyres or muddies, really, if I'm honest with myself. I'm also constantly having balance issues with the bigger tyres - I've got a BFG KM2 with 10K km on it that can't be balanced no matter what we've tried) It's not something that is an issue with shorter trips, but is when you sit at high speed for hours on end. I find the bigger tyres also give the wheel bearing a much harder time as well.
Any gearing and fuel economy improvements will also be appreciated.
I'm heading away this weekend and will try to get some videos in different situations...
Any gearing and fuel economy improvements will also be appreciated.
I'm heading away this weekend and will try to get some videos in different situations...
To be fair to Kotzur, they originally were only doing the head and it was done quick enough. Then the original head came off as the built head was ready to deliver and it turned out that the block deck needed machined. I ended up having them do the entire short block machining which turned out excellent. Finally, it was decided that the best course of action was to have the machine shop do the assembly since this is for keeps. I didn't want to put all this money into it and then cut the corner on assembly. Kotzur has the reputation for doing A+ work so I figured why not.
When I first asked if they would assemble they did say that they would if the pistons checked out and I had the pistons blasted and coated OR bought new pistons (the pistons checked out though with slight nicks from the valves). They also said that they had a line and it would take some time. However, going past Christmas was never part of the known equation.
When I first asked if they would assemble they did say that they would if the pistons checked out and I had the pistons blasted and coated OR bought new pistons (the pistons checked out though with slight nicks from the valves). They also said that they had a line and it would take some time. However, going past Christmas was never part of the known equation.
If it's any consolation, the machine shop I used took a few extra weeks than planned. But trust me, when you do finally get it, you'll forget all about the inconveniences as you get back into the project.
Keep up the good work - the end result is near!!!
Keep up the good work - the end result is near!!!
Id be lieing if i said i didn't check this page almost daily to see if there is any updates. What would a rough price range be to get it up to par with a supercharged tundra? Also how reliable would it be with a stock engine on that much boost? I live in maine so my 80 sees alot of cold starts, and has never been the happiest about it.
funny about the machine shop delay... when i had all my machine work done on mine, two weeks past the date i was supposed to get it back, they called and said the machinist working on finishing mine up had a heart attack and fell out of his tree stand dead. So that set me back another two weeks.
- Thread starter
- #216
Another Turbo FZJ80 in the works. I'll post updates as things progress.
- Thread starter
- #217
Engine being assembled. A few of the mistakes that the machine shop made being corrected along the way as we continue...
- Thread starter
- #218
More pics
- Thread starter
- #219
Replaced the terrible OEM Toyota philips head oil pump housing bolts with the EMSPowered stainless steel allen head 1FZFE oil pump bolt set:
OEM Bolts:
EMSPowered bolts:
OEM Bolts:
EMSPowered bolts:
- Thread starter
- #220
More progress.
