Air Lift 1000 Install (5 Viewers)

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I'm getting ready to do this on my truck as the trailer has fairly significant tongue weight. I emailed Air Lift direct and got in contact with Allan. He had me measure the inside diameter of my rear shocks as well as the total height. I am running the Slee Heavy Springs. My measurements came out as follows, truck on level ground.

ID: 5.5" (this is a little tricky to measure on a spring)
Height 9.5"

Based on those measurements he recommended kit #60744.
I ordered here: http://www.amazon.com/LIFT-60744-Series-Air-Spring/dp/B000CFO0EU

I'm a little worried about this kit number because the vehicle it was created for is indicated as a late 60s Buick Skylark and Chevy Chevelle. Dan's #60755 has similar listings. I believe that width is more important than length (stop smirking) in this application so I'm going to trust the tech guy and order a set. I'll get back to you with my findings.....
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Do you mean slee heavy springs instead of shocks?

Are your springs sagging when the trailer is hooked on?

Maybe my springs are too new still but they don't budge with a 3500lb trailer...
 
Do you mean slee heavy springs instead of shocks?

Are your springs sagging when the trailer is hooked on?

Maybe my springs are too new still but they don't budge with a 3500lb trailer...

Yes SPRINGS. Thanks for catching that. Fixed. I have the Slee Heavy Springs and Fox 2.0 Piggybacks which were just rebuilt for the load and my driving style. The truck sags by 2-3" when I connect my fully loaded Adrenalin. I don't know the tongue weight yet but the trailer weight is ~2000-2200lbs fully loaded. It has a weight bias to the front because of how it's set up for short departure angle. The tongue is hard to lift by two strong adult men if that helps. Also I have drawers, fridge, 4 people, Slee bumper, Tire carrier, and a few hundred pounds of crap in the truck. The truck weighed in at 7200lbs. If this seems odd to people with a similar setup let me know. Maybe Slee can chime in? Is there a stiffer spring than the Slee Heavy? I've always thought that even they were a little light for my taste.
 
That is a lot of tongue weight if it takes tow guys, but nothing to be worried about.

Overload bags are the way to go. Even though you have heavy rear springs, you are loaded up before the trailer.
 
One of my bags broke just prior to my 2500 mile trip with the camper, really bummed I did not have them working. Time to check warranty but the web site is down.
Leak is at seem. Anyone else have this happen?
 
I've had the hoses come off both of my bags. Looks like the brass fitting was actually pushed up into the bag - only a small bit is sticking out now. I did do some reasonable trails recently and maybe that caused it?

Anyone had issues with keeping the air lines attached?
 
I have these as well, 860s with Airbags, really plush and seems to be handeling the fridge, Bior rear bumper and Woodsman's custom drawer just fine.
 
For those wondering about warranty, it's great. $10 ship and handle fee and a replacement bag is on its way. I was concerned that I would have to do the job twice, take it out- send it in, get a new one. $10 is with not having to that!
 
I've had the hoses come off both of my bags. Looks like the brass fitting was actually pushed up into the bag - only a small bit is sticking out now. I did do some reasonable trails recently and maybe that caused it?

Anyone had issues with keeping the air lines attached?

My first set was the Firestone brand, where the hoses came from the top and connected with shark bite connectors to the bags. I could not keep them attached, since the bags would pull away from the top mount and the hose did not have enough room to move too.

So I replaced with the AirLifts that have a brass barb fitting on the bottoms. No problems since. Better angle for the hose, different type (softer, more flexible) hose and servicable clamps.
 
My first set was the Firestone brand, where the hoses came from the top and connected with shark bite connectors to the bags. I could not keep them attached, since the bags would pull away from the top mount and the hose did not have enough room to move too.

So I replaced with the AirLifts that have a brass barb fitting on the bottoms. No problems since. Better angle for the hose, different type (softer, more flexible) hose and servicable clamps.

The research I did before I went with AirLift suggested that the Firestone seemed to have more issues, where I could not find any with Airlift.
 
I installed a set of these (Air Lift bags) over the weekend - about a 2-3 hour job overall including teardown and putting everything back on (tires, spare, etc.).

I'm running OME Heavy Duty 866 springs in the rear - they are approximately:
5 1/2” inside diameter
9 1/4” top to bottom inside

I contacted Air Lift directly and, after giving him (Jeff at Air Lift) those measurements, he recommended #60733. They went right into the inside of the coil spring without any issue once I had the coil removed to remove the cone bumpstop.

I did not drill-out the hole at the bottom of the perch (on the axle). Like spressomon, I used 1/4" ID rubber fuel hose as a protector for the air line, perfect fit in that hole. The air line was a bit of a tight fit inside the rubber hose, so I cut 3" lengths and used a bit of grease on the outside of the air line, then fed it thru those small sections of hose. I put about 5 sections of the hose together starting at the bottom hole, then just used electrical tape to hold them together and then again where the last hose ended to the air line to avoid slippage.

We'll see how they hold up. Drove around about 10-12 miles is all so far, I'll report back any issues.
 
I installed an air lift because it was cheaper than getting the Slee Heavies. My truck is getting heavy, but without a rear bumper, it's right between needing 860s or Slee heavies. On trips, it gets heavier. So air bags it is for now. It's weird lifting your truck an inch with a bike pump (my compressors air chuck just broke).

I used a 3/8in ID black vinyl tube to protect all the 1/4" air lines. I routed them to follow the ABS sensor wires along the rear UCAs, then along the gastank filler neck. I may need to relocate the Schrader valve to somewhere more protected. There was just already a hole where I located it.

I used the T fitting to link the left and right bag. My theory was that it'd work as a self leveling/sway bar like system this way.

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The stink bug is back.

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Taking amazon reviews with some salt....

Has anyone had one of these bags pop on them? One reviewer said 50lbs popped his.
Probably will buy anyway, going on a 4 adult 3 kid road trip this summer. And would help level the ride.

EVO
 
It says on the instructions never to exceed 30-35psi. There's no need to go any higher than that anyways. It is extremely stiff at that high of a psi.

My Hundy doubles as my work truck and I load up 1500lbs in the back on occasion and 35psi will nearly get me leveled to my 2" front lift. 17 psi usually nets me 1" over stock(empty or up to 500lbs) and firms the ride up nicely

I'm using a cheap digital compressor that accurately let's me pre set the pressure. It only costs $25 at lowes
 
Put these in last summer with new shocks. After a good bit of towing, I'm kicking myself for not doing it a long time ago. The airbags make towing a fairly long and heavy trailer a dream. Best $80 upgrade out there. If you're on the fence about the Airlift ------DO IT!
 
EVO, read back a bit, Mine did not pop but split at the seam, no where close to 50 lbs. great warranty program

Response to everyone considering setup. As far as placement of the valve, I too used the small hole in the bumper but I am going to run it inside as the Schrader valve is rusting. Open to better suggestions.
Agree if u tow do not hesitate on this, great for ride and safety
 
Not tried it on a 100 yet, but the identical set up on my 3rd gen 4Runner made me question not doing it years earlier. Completely worth while. Just don't over inflate. I believe in interconnecting the plumbing to maintain identical pressure to both sides. Down side is a blowout would mean a complete loss.
 
I believe in interconnecting the plumbing to maintain identical pressure to both sides. Down side is a blowout would mean a complete loss.

Agreed on the T connection to ensure even inflation pressure both sides. If there is a blowout or a leak you actually want both sides deflated. Towing with one side only inflated could get very sketchy very quickly.
 

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