best way to temporarily fix oil pan hole? (1 Viewer)

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well my 62 has been leaking more and more. it's almost as bad as the Exxon Valdez. there was obviously a leak coming from the gasket so I spend about five hours nder my truck replacing it. I used the bottle jack method to get the pan off ( great advice from here on mud) took about 30 seconds when the bolts were out. there was oil between the gasket and block in many areas so I figured this had to be it. I degreased scrubbed wire brushed and again degreased the pan. it looked fine with no holes so I painted it again and replaced it with an OEM gasket. steel wool and a brass wire brush really cleaned the surfaces up nicely. it all went petty smoothly except my torque wrench wouldn't read 8 foot pounds so I tightened the gasket just to the point where it started to squeeze out but no more. after letting it set up for the night I filled it with oil. half our later I noticed a drip. the pan was completely dry except for in the area of the skid plate where it was pooling. dang it all I must have a hole ( small one but still a hole). after all that work I have a blasted hole. does anyone have a good temp fix for this problem? would using a high temperature cylicone all around the skid plate stop it or even something like exhaust cement? I really don't want to do it all again right now if I can avoid it. on the other hand would the gasket be reuseable if I replaced the pan early (caveat I can get if off in one piece)? I'm really tired of an oil slick under my truck.
 
Yeah, these are famous for rusting the oil pan out where the skid plate is welded on. If it is rusted through in one place, there are probably other places that will be rusted out soon. You could try to get it welded, but methinks you will be replacing it with either a new one or a used one if you can find an unrusted example.
 
There is not a lot of pressure on the oil pan, so maybe remove it, clean the inside, and then coat the inside with something.

A skim of JB weld maybe.

I would scuff up the inside before applying anthing though.
 
Quick fix - find the spot and silicon the crap out of it! Not the proper fix, but if your looking for temporary redneck it works. Like 45Kevin said there isn't a lot of pressure there.
 
I went through this in my 60 last year. Oil was leaking from the spot welds that attach the skid plate, and dripping out of the open section of the plate nearest the drain plug. The drip, drip, drip was killing me.

I tried a JB Weld type material (Waterweld) in and around the skid plate as a temporary fix and the oil still found its way out eventually. There's nothing like trying a half-a** fix, and then having it fail.

Finally pulled the pan and lo and behold, there were dabs of some kind of RTV inside the pan on every one of the spot welds. The PO clearly took a stab at it, and it clearly didn't help for all that long.

Unless you have the time and tools to re-weld all of those spots, I would just get a new pan, and gasket just in case, and be done with it. Now that you've taken the pan off once, you know it'll come off without a fight.

I got my pan + gasket thru CDan and the $ hit was not too painful. You may need to order a new drain plug too - on the 60s the new oil pans have a smaller plug, same as what I have on my 03 Tundra.

Good luck-

DF
 
X2 on a new pan. For less than $200 I can get you a brand new pan, gasket & plug. The cost of farting around with your old one isn't worth it in my opinion. Do it one more time and be done with it for many miles to come.
 
JB worked for me :hillbilly:. Meant to be temporary but it didn't leak another drop from the "repaired" rust holes on my 3B in almost 3 yrs. With proper prep the stuff bonds quite well. Just got around to replacing it (it being the oil pan). On a 2F it should be easy ennough to just get another oil pan and not bother with a temporary fix :meh:
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I'm going to give it one cheap try and if it leaks it's coming off. at least it's clean under there now which is what took me the most time. I'm going to try to fill the gap with solder and then jb weld over it. I'm not taking it off to try to fix. just going to drain it clean it well and try. the next time it comes off a new one is going on. thanks for all the replies.
 
Seems like making a perimeter weld all the way around the skid plate would be one way to do it. The risk is burning right through the pan and making it worse. (I would not want to try it with the pan full of oil.) FTR, Fs, 2Fs and 3F/3FEs all interchange. For al I know old Chevy pans may also fit since they were copied.
 
I was under the impression that the 3fe was a different pan than a 2f. can this please be confirmed or refuted. I have a 2f out of my 40 I'm going to pull because it's shot. I'd use that oil pan of it would fit. it's a 77 fj40.
 
There is not a lot of pressure on the oil pan, so maybe remove it, clean the inside, and then coat the inside with something.

A skim of JB weld maybe.

I would scuff up the inside before applying anthing though.

i'm sorry but this is dumb.
you drop the pan to try and fix it? the hard part is getting the pan off, once that is done why not just replace the faulty unit?
it's not that it has pressure, but it contains hot oil. hot oil will find a hole better than water. i would not coat the inside of the pan with anything. if whatever you put in there lifts, where is it going to end up? stuck up in the oil pump suction screen.
 
Same thing happened to me, but I had a pin hole leak on the side of the pan. Bite the bullet and spend the $200 to do it over and correctly. You won't regret it.
 
I was under the impression that the 3fe was a different pan than a 2f. can this please be confirmed or refuted. I have a 2f out of my 40 I'm going to pull because it's shot. I'd use that oil pan of it would fit. it's a 77 fj40.

I'm having the same issue with my 62. Any more thoughts on interchangeability?
Thanks!
 
so I tried the solder covered by jb weld. well the solder didn't work at all. I couldn't get it far enough in before it melted and left bubbles of metal along the edge of the skid plate. made more of a mess then anything. I ended up just packing it full of jb weld. its just setting up now but I'll let you know how it turned out. I'm ordering a new pan anyway so the $10 on jb weld is just going to save me $20 of oil on the ground until the pan gets here.
 
I'm curious...

did you try using any paste or liquid flux before you used the solder?

I fixed a motorcycle gas tank using paste flux and silver solder once, worked great until I could get it replaced. Seems like an oil pan would be even easier.

Clean the area around the hole, apply the flux, heat the metal and let the solder flow in. More like sweating a copper pipe than an electrical joint.
 
This problem has come up on Mud before. There is a good chance it wasn't the PO but Toyota putting sealant on the inside of the pan. The pans crack and leak at the skid plate spot welds. If an engine has ever been removed and allowed to sit on the pan its likely to leak. Or if its ever bumped a rock or log hard. Add a little rust and drip drip drip.

RTV around the skid plate will not seal because, no matter how hard you clean, there will always be a little residual oil weeping out. I even let a couple of cups of gasoline drip through trying to dry it out. I jacked the truck up so the oil would run forward while sealant dried near the plug. I tried numerous products numerous times and finally gave up and replaced the pan. If you put sealant inside like Toyota besure to use a high quality product. If it flakes off your oil pump try to pull it through the screen.

Good luck.
 
yeah I did use flux and silver solder. I think it heated up at the edge of the skid plate before getting where it needed to be and wouldn't run anywhere. it probable would have worked it I had the pan off and on its side. like I said though the next time the pan comes off a new one is going on. the jb weld didn't work at all either so I suspect a hole in a place I couldn't reach anyway without taking the skid plate off. oh well. live and learn right. on the flip side with all the time the cruiser has been sitting I've done other things like paint my lug nuts and center caps and instal my cb radio. that's a bonus.
 
Seems like making a perimeter weld all the way around the skid plate would be one way to do it. The risk is burning right through the pan and making it worse. (I would not want to try it with the pan full of oil.)

This worked for me. Removed the pan, cleaned, cleaned and then cleaned some more. cut the skid plate down so there was no overlap beyond the pan and that made it easier to weld. Used a MIG and went slow. No issues burning through the pan. Only issue was getting out all the trapped oil between the pan and the skid plate.

If I had to do it again, I would cut out the spot welds and remove the skid plate. Then clean everything, reweld the spots then the perimeter, I would still cut the skid down so there was no overlap beyond the pan. Cleaning without removing the plate was a pain and definitely took more time time than if I had just removed it for cleaning. You could also just use a new piece of metal for the skid too.
 

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