Lower Ball Joint Replacement Instructions (1 Viewer)

[cruisermon]

I just replaced the LCA ball joints with some Triple 5's sourced through AutoZone sold as DuraLast.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0650.jpg

Since there was not a thread with pictures of the actual pressing in and out process I thought I throw something together along with the tricks and tools I used to make the actual pressing process about a 10 minute per arm. Unfortunately the process of pulling the arms and putting everything back together takes a wee bit longer.

I apologize for not taking pictures of the actual removal of the arms from the truck.

Step 1. Jack the front of the truck up high enough to pull the front tires and place jack stands under the frame. i placed them under the tranny cross member and they seemed to be out of the way for everything I needed to do. Pull the tires. Pull the splash guards/skid plates.

Refer to FSM Suspension and Axle SA-73 for the following as needed.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/SA-73.jpg

Step 2. Remove all the pre-load from the torsion bars by turning the adjuster counter-clockwise until there is play/no tension on the anchor arm. I removed my entire adjuster bolt as I planned to re-index my torsion bars and also wanted to clean up and anti-seize my adjuster bolts.

Step 3. Remove the 2 nuts on each torque arm (22mm). Then mark each torque arm in relation to the torsion bar so that you can return them to their original orientation.

Step 4. Using a large screw driver, pry bar, hammer, etc. as needed to slide the torque arms rearward on the splines of the torsion bars enough to clear the captured mounting bolt, or off if you marked them in step 3.

Step 5. Remove the lower control arm mounting nuts, leaving the bolts in place (22mm).

Step 6. Remove the lower shock bolt (19mm).

Step 7. Remove the sway bar nut, washer and bushing (14mm).

Step 8. Remove cotter pin, and ball joint nut (24mm)

Step 9. Release ball joint taper. I have almost always used a small sledge hammer for this purpose on my Toyotas and my BMWs. On my BMWs there is usually a square boss at ball joint tapers designed for hitting. A few smacks with my small sledge and the ball joint was released. YMMV

Step 10. Pull the bolts from the inner pivots and rotate the ball joint out of the taper.

Step 11. Remove the C clip from the ball joint. I used an inherited set of old pliers that worked perfectly and pushed the clip out with ease.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0648.jpg
Step 12. Place the arm in your Harbor Freight 20 ton shop press. I bought one specifically for this project but have needed one many times before. They have a "super coupon" right now for $169.99.

Step 12.a To press the ball out I used a 2" metal conduit coupler under the arm. It wasn't really needed but I bought it for the press in and it did make it a bit easier to balance the arm during the press. Be ready for the POP when it breaks loose.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0638.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0643.jpg
Step 12.b To press the new joint in I used the 2" metal conduit coupler mentioned above along with a 2" pipe nipple which fit perfectly around the boot and had a solid surface to press the joint in. Both were sourced at Home Depot for around $4/ea. I also smeared a bit of grease in the opening before installing the joint. On top of the nipple is a plate of steel I picked up at the steel yard years ago to pound on. Any flat thick piece of steel that is larger than the 2" nipple circumference will do.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0644.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0646.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k14/cruisermon/misc/IMG_0640.jpg

Step 12.c Reinstall the C clip around the ball joint. I used a punch and hammer to nudge it back in place.

Step 13. Reinstall everything pretty much in reverse order. Don't forget to tighten the arm pivot bolts before putting the torsion bar torque arms back into place. You will need to hold the bolt head with a box end wrench and the head is blocked when the torque arm is in place.

Comparison pics:

 

[agaisin]

Great writeup! What led you to replace the ball joints - did you have any symptoms? While you had the LCA off did you do the bushings as well? While you had everything else off to get to the LCA did you do the UCA as well?

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[spressomon]

Good job...this needs to be put into FAQ!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Look who's finally posting about the 100. Added to the FAQ. So I get that they pop when they release, but how do you tell the new joint is properly seated when pressing it in?

Nice work D, when you doing mine?

 

[cruisermon]

I should have included some info about my truck and why I replaced the joints.

Several weeks ago I started hearing some clanking coming from the front end when driving over expansion joints in the road. After imagining the lower ball joints moving around to make that noise and what might happen if one of them gave way while my family was in the truck I quickly moved toward changing them out.

My truck has ~169k on it. I put 295s on it a couple years ago and then last fall I installed Total Chaos UCAs with Radflo 2.5" shocks. No front bumper yet so I adjusted front ride height via torsion bar pre-load. The rear end got some 865s.

The bushings at the pivots looked just fine upon inspection so I elected to leave them for now.

 

[cruisermon]

Look who's finally posting about the 100. Added to the FAQ. So I get that they pop when they release, but how do you tell the new joint is properly seated when pressing it in?

Nice work D, when you doing mine?

When pressing the new joint in, I believe if you use the prescribed items I laid out you will get a completely straight press and when the press starts to bind (visually and by feel) you will know the joint is in. I also think that the C clip would be much more difficult to put on if it was not fully seated. The clip should go on with not too much effort. Like I said I used a punch and a hammer and it just took little taps to get it back on.

I'm waiting for another Watch Monkey Work On His Truck segment.

 

[bluecruiser]

Did the clanking go away? Nice writeup. Thx.

 

[cruisermon]

Sure did.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Gotta link for the super saver coupon?

 

[no-pistons]

Gotta link for the super saver coupon?

I seen it in the monthly catalog that they send out in the mail. Maybe they have them in the store also, not sure?

 

[bluecruiser]

Website? Check Amazon too.

 

[Mxndrnks]

The Code would work too! I dont have a local HF or the mailer. Thanks!

To add some questions:

If replacing the LBJ and say you decide to go ahead and replace the inboard bushings as well (#1 ) is there any point when you would decide to just go ahead and replace the entire lower arm? I am sure there are differing answers to this. If you would, I am curious why?

Also Cruisermon: After looking through your write up I wanted to confirm that you did not need to disconnect the UCA from the steering knuckle? Also, when you were using the press in your photos, how did you support the LCA to keep everything square? I know the LCA isnt light. Did you hold it with one arm while actuating the press with the other or what? I am considering going the same route as you with the press because I also want one for other projects.

Thanks!

Website? Check Amazon too.

Didnt see it on the website. Will check Amazon. Thanks!

 

[cruisermon]

Here is the press. The coupon was in their mailer sent out about a week ago in the mail.

The only reason I would consider replacement of the whole lower arm would be if it was damaged/bent. It's just a hunk of steel with a bushing pressed into it so even if rusty you could have it blasted and paint it up, replace the bushing and be good as new.

You do not need to disconnect the upper control arm.

I placed the ball joint end on the conduit coupler on the press and then rested the pivot points on my thighs until the press was tight against the ball joint and/or steel block. It really isn't all that heavy, maybe 15-20 lbs. Of course lowering the press plates to a closer tolerance before placement of the arm makes things easier since a bottle jack isn't real fast at expanding. I moved the bottom press plate between the uppermost setting for pressing out and the next one down for pressing in with the two "pipes".

 

[APKhaos]

If you have the arm or arms off the truck its definitely worth cleaning them up and checking for cracks. Press formed arms are known for stress cracking. Simple enough to weld and that's a good repair if its a good weld.

 

[Mxndrnks]

is this movement on the in board bushing normal?
LCA Bushing Movement - YouTube

 

[Mxndrnks]

Thought I would add another option to this thread for those that are looking to do this project themselves.

I thought long and hard about getting the press above to do this same project. At the end of the day, a press would be a nice to have. But, not something I could just justify at the moment. So, I decided to go the other route and replace the lower ball joint while on the truck.

First off, I ordered new five three ball joints from Rock Auto.

Then after they arrived, I went to my local O'Reilly and got a loaner ball joint press like one of these:

Amazon.com: OTC 7249 Ball Joint, U-Joint and Brake Anchor Pin Service Kit: Automotive

Then I watched these two videos on your tube to make sure I understood how to use the press:

pressing out

pressing in


Once that was accomplished I set out to accomplish the job.

Now when I did a lower ball joint reboot last year I could not for the life of me figure out how to get the lower ball joint separated from the knuckle without disconnecting the upper ball joint and removing the entire hub. Starting this project I was planning on rebuilding my Total Chaos upper control arms and I was pulling both front shocks to send back to Radflo to get some longer hoses and change out some fittings on my remote reservoirs so I can relocate those to a better location. So, the amount of work I already had to do made removing the entire hub easy. So, the steps I went through (just for the lower ball joint. I am removing the steps I went through for the other parts).

• chock wheels
• loosen lugnuts with tire on the ground
• jack up drivers side
• install jackstand
• remove tire
• place bottle jack under the lower control arm to support it
• remove two bolts to brake caliper and support using zip ties
• remove two bolts for the ABS sensor and support
• remove two bolts to the steering tie rod bracket and swing out of the way
• remove hub dust cap
• remove CV axle split ring
• disconnect UCA ball joint
• disconnect LCA ball joint. This time my puller wasnt getting the job done so I resorted the the BFH method.
• holding on to the hub so it doesnt fall, lower the bottle jack until the ball joint clears. set it to the side
• then using zip ties I pulled the CV up and out of the way see pictures below
• install ball joint press and press it out
• once the old ball joint was out, I took a brass wire brush and cleaned up the opening to inspect it
• then you reinstall the ball joint press and press in the new ball joint. Be caustious to make sure everything is seated correctly and make sure you are not trying to press it in uneven. You could do this in either method. So pay attention when pressing in the new joint.
• now you are done... just reinstall everything you took apart and torque to factory spec.

here is a picture as I am about to press out the old joint. notice how the brake caliper and cv are zip tied up out of the way. Also notice I use a larger sized breaker bar with no cheater bar.

here is a picture of the cleaned up ball joint socket

Overall I was really surprised how easy of a job this is. It only took 10 maybe 15 min to actually press out the old and press in the new. The longest part by far about this job is just breaking things down. I figure it should take between 4-5 hours total for a DIY'er to do both side at home. Just take your time and enjoy the process. I didnt take more pictures because I felt the two videos I linked above show you enough on how to use the press.

Anyway, another option for those planning to take on this project.

 

[bluecruiser]

awesome job...i like the on the truck option...looks like I will be doing this soon....great work! now get busy and plan the DV trip.

 

[Mxndrnks]

awesome job...i like the on the truck option...looks like I will be doing this soon....great work! now get busy and plan the DV trip.

Been looking at the calendar. Didn't you just replace your lbj like 2-3 years ago?

 

[bluecruiser]

Been looking at the calendar. Didn't you just replace your lbj like 2-3 years ago?

Just the drivers side at that time.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Either of the options above make this project easy enough for the diy'er. No need to pay a shop if you have the time and enjoy the work...

I just wanted to give another option for those that might be put off by the need for a press.

I still want a press... timing just wasn't right for me.