How to get coolant out of oil & engine (1 Viewer)

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OK - so I hope somebody out there has had to deal with this at some point that can help me.
83 FJ-60, 2F, Man-A-Fre remanufactured engine - stock except for a DUI ignition,
They used a cheaper after market head gasket, so it lasted about 60K miles (nice of them to let you know that in the specs, *%(#$& :mad: - anyway, So I pulled the head, gasket blown between 5 & 6, off to the machine shop, valve job ( just cause it's prudent at that point, and a little taken off the surface for a little out of flat ), put it all back together with OEM gaskets this time, starts right up, no problem.
I run it about 6 blocks, starts to get hot ( not over heated, just going up on the gauge ) shut it off, let it cool for about 30 minutes, drive back home, heats up like before, but not over, let it cool down, check oil, I got massive (like an extra couple of gallons) milk shake on the dip stick. Drain all of that from the pan, pull the valve cover and find a 25mm freeze plug laying in the oil galley.
Of course the engine is filled with milk shake at this point.
So of course I'm going to go have a talk with the machine shop, but I'm guessing (I'll have to check as I go) that the rest of the engine is OK - at least mechanically.
SO, at this point how can I get all this milk shake out of the engine, bearings....etc?
Could you put a gallon of solvent in the pan and manually run the oil pump to get it out?
I'd appreciate any ideas, or hopefully somebody has had to do this before.
Thanks!
 
I've had the same issue on a 22re(toyota truck). Know this, the coolant will slowly eat away the main/rod bearings.

Go to the auto parts store and buy some cheapo oil and cheapo filters. 21 quarts should do it. Fill it, run it for 5 minutes, drain fill, repeat.
 
I've had the same issue on a 22re(toyota truck). Know this, the coolant will slowly eat away the main/rod bearings.

Go to the auto parts store and buy some cheapo oil and cheapo filters. 21 quarts should do it. Fill it, run it for 5 minutes, drain fill, repeat.

This is what I would do as well. Drain and fill with cheap oil. Maybe repeat twice and then fill with whatever oil you normally run.
 
Thanks Guys! I'll do just that. It's only been about 24 hours now, do you think it's had time to damage anything yet?
 
ah I wouldn't wait that long next time but I wouldn't worry bout it either at this point :)
Think about it though it usually takes a while before people realize there head gasket has been going out for some time.

Edit: sorry one other thing obviously change your filter at your final oil fill up. that tranny fluid will clean up all sorts of crap and fill your filter up.
 
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I put a quart of tranny fluid in with oil run warm then drain.

This is what I'd do, either a quart of ATF or a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil mixed with the rest cheap oil, for 2 changes.
 
Thanks Guys! I'll do just that. It's only been about 24 hours now, do you think it's had time to damage anything yet?

I would not think so, but the sooner you clean it up the better, and I also think some ATF or MMO would help.;)
 
Your machine shop should pay for your oil changes and new coolant ...

PIX ?!?
 
unless somebody else already mentioned it, there is a "bolt" on the bottom of the oil pan. take that bolt out, and all the fluidy crap will run out the hole, oil or water it doesn't matter it will all run right out. just be sure to put the bolt back in the hole before refilling with oil.
 
Not trying to be a dick,did you drain your oil after you pulled the head or before starting up the car?you should really check all this stuff prior to firing up.
 
In addition to the recommended procedure to drain and refill the crank case and filter a few times, I recommend driving the vehicle for at least 30 minutes to an hour at a time.

The PCV system, if it is working correctly, will suck the water vapor in the crank case and add it to the combustion process, harmlessly removing water contamination from the oil and crank case.

Rick
 

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