Recommendations for new coil to replace one with a ballast resistor?
Electronic F & 2F Distributors (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Trollhole
- Start date
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- #22
Will do.
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- #23
Any 12v coil. The biggest issue your going to find is getting one that fit's the original bracket. I'll try to stop by the parts place and see what kind of numbers I can dig up.
Marshall,
Let me know when the next patch of the electronic units arrives - I want to drop one into the desmogged pig (78 2F).
Thanks,
Let me know when the next patch of the electronic units arrives - I want to drop one into the desmogged pig (78 2F).
Thanks,
Any word on when the new distributors will be available?
Are these supposed to be identical to the 78 small cap dizzy? Any differences? And x2 on stocking update.
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- #28
No they are not a 78 dizzy. These are a late 60's early 70's mechanical dizzy that has entirely new guts in it. With a 78 you need an igniter. With mine you don't.
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- #30
Emberdin said:
Yes it will.
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- #31
I have one electronic dizzy left. 150 shipped to the lower 48. If you want it send me a pm.
PM sent
Installed new electronic distributor in my 69 FJ40 and it runs great. Probably the best improvement for the money that I have done to date. Thanks
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- #34
Glad to know.
I have 20 more coming in the first of next month.
Also have a used one I'd sell for 90. Customer bought it and it wouldn't fit in his block. I've put it in every motor I have at the shop and it fits in just fine.
I have 20 more coming in the first of next month.
Also have a used one I'd sell for 90. Customer bought it and it wouldn't fit in his block. I've put it in every motor I have at the shop and it fits in just fine.
PM sent
Ok...... mine has a Black Wire with a Red sheath around the split spade connector, and a White wire with a Black sheath.
I conected the Red sheathed one (black wire) to the + on the coil and the Black sheathed one (White Wire) to the - on the coil.
I have the original Black/Yellow +12v wire conected to the + side of the coil along with your Dizzy Red sheathed conector (black wire) When the ingition is on i have 12v to the + side of the coil.
With all of this still nothing?
My veh is a 74 F motor
I have a new 12v Coil with an internal restior
I have bypassed the orginal 12v to 6v resistor.
Please help
- Thread starter
- #37
Swap the wires on the dizzy and see if that works. Had this issues on another unit where the wires needed to be swapped.
Installing the Trollhole Electronic F & 2F Distributors in my FJ40 (sorry for any SP mistakes)
Vehicle spec:
First set the timing to TDC (on the Line not the BB). Remove the dizzy cap but leave the SP wire attacked to it. The rotor should be pointing at or near the #4 spark plug (counting from the front the back).
Remove the one wire attached to the old Dizzy and tape it up (not used and more).
Clean loose debris around the base of the old dizzy. Loosen the dizzy adj clamp 10mm and gently pull the old dizzy out. You will notice that to rotor will spin clockwise about 40* when pulling it out. You will use that final rotor position as the starting point when installing the new dizzy. Apply oil around the new Dizzy original position the rotor aprox in the same location as the old remove dizzy rotor. As you insert the new Dizzy the rotor will rotate counter clockwise pointing at the #4 sparkplug. You will need to apply some downward pressure to seat the new o-ring (you should feel it pop in place). If you don’t, you will run the risk of not engaging the oil pump.
Attach the new cap and use the old cap as the template for installing the spark plug wires.
At the coil you will need to remove the wires attached to it and elect tape them up. (black/white wire, wire coming for resistor and the black/red wire). Remove the black/yellow wire form the input side of the resistor.
Take the new dizzy wires and attach them to the coil (White/black sheathed wire to (-) side of the coil and the Black/Red sheathed wire and the Factory black/yellow striped wire to the (+) side of the coil).
This is how it should look when you’re done.
Disconnect the Molex plug form the Igniter Assy and tape it up.
Attach you timing light and ether use a friend to crank the motor over while you look for the timing mark or use a remote starter. On mine the Vac advance shaft is all most perpendicular to the block. After it starts adj the timing to 7* (the BB on the flywheel) and reconnect the vacuum line.
All in all it a great addition to my FJ.
Ti bits on the Trollhole dizzy
It uses an 1971 rotor and cap for replacement.
Vehicle spec:
- 1974 CA smog FJ40
- F 1.5 motor
- Trollhole Carb
- De-smoged
- Factory exhaust
First set the timing to TDC (on the Line not the BB). Remove the dizzy cap but leave the SP wire attacked to it. The rotor should be pointing at or near the #4 spark plug (counting from the front the back).
Remove the one wire attached to the old Dizzy and tape it up (not used and more).
Clean loose debris around the base of the old dizzy. Loosen the dizzy adj clamp 10mm and gently pull the old dizzy out. You will notice that to rotor will spin clockwise about 40* when pulling it out. You will use that final rotor position as the starting point when installing the new dizzy. Apply oil around the new Dizzy original position the rotor aprox in the same location as the old remove dizzy rotor. As you insert the new Dizzy the rotor will rotate counter clockwise pointing at the #4 sparkplug. You will need to apply some downward pressure to seat the new o-ring (you should feel it pop in place). If you don’t, you will run the risk of not engaging the oil pump.
Attach the new cap and use the old cap as the template for installing the spark plug wires.
At the coil you will need to remove the wires attached to it and elect tape them up. (black/white wire, wire coming for resistor and the black/red wire). Remove the black/yellow wire form the input side of the resistor.
Take the new dizzy wires and attach them to the coil (White/black sheathed wire to (-) side of the coil and the Black/Red sheathed wire and the Factory black/yellow striped wire to the (+) side of the coil).
This is how it should look when you’re done.
Disconnect the Molex plug form the Igniter Assy and tape it up.
Attach you timing light and ether use a friend to crank the motor over while you look for the timing mark or use a remote starter. On mine the Vac advance shaft is all most perpendicular to the block. After it starts adj the timing to 7* (the BB on the flywheel) and reconnect the vacuum line.
All in all it a great addition to my FJ.
Ti bits on the Trollhole dizzy
It uses an 1971 rotor and cap for replacement.
Last edited:
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- #40
Very very nicely done. I owe you one for that.