First research all your options:
Ultimately this seems to be your list of options for 100+ HP solutions, just the forced induction unit included for price comparison (exhaust, optional intercoolers, modifed intakes and tranny upgrades not included):
(the TRD units are notoriously sold with missing pieces, complete units I'm told used to sell for $1500-$2200 a year or two ago, most sales on ebay this year are in excess of $3k)
I chose the TRD route, the rest of the guide assumes you do too.
There is some talk of buying Bullet's intake manifold and putting a new generation Eaton SC on it (Click here for the TS Thread discussing it)
There is also a link here for a Tundra turbo from STS for $4k, but it may mount under the cab and potentially be a target for rocks and other stuff if you are off roading, no idea also whether a skidplate can protect it or how that would work.
There are some companies that will do stroker motors, TTC Performance for one, but price looks like at least $12k.
More reading material:
TS Member having mechanical issues and some discussion around forced induction options
More TS discussions about options for forced induction systems, the question asked is about turbo and supercharger options
STS at one point had a Turbo for the 2UZFE and specifically the Tundra
The OP is talking about dyno tuning and the thread gets into some technical details, the OP says his forced induction unit is a 'ASA TM-15 supercharger(6-7psi boost)'
Here a link to a ih8mud discussion thread about the Bullet supercharger, a newer, and more advanced supercharger for the hundy's
Here is a Lextreme forum member talking about their Bullet SC
Engine performance is discussed in this ih8mud forum thread
Then, get some general understanding of forced induction systems on the Toyota V8 engines, read everything you can here:
TS Forced Induction Thread
If you go with a TRD Superchager, there are some things you should know first:
jbtoy has a good word of caution here:
**Caution to anyone that wants an SC:
1. Do your homework so you know the language and the parts.Too many people buy units with missing parts because the seller and/or buyer have no idea what a complete unit looks like. There is a lot more to the SC, than just the blower.
2. Most units for sale will be used, but, if complete, work great as is. Some folks have rebuilt units before install (I just rebuilt a SC). There is also support in the marketplace
for this. I have not posted all of the resources, but, they are posted in other threads. See that forced induction section, again.
3. Do NOT buy a supercharger if you really want 20+ MPG. Also, the SC requires premium gas, so, if not prepared to do that, just pass on it.
4. If installing a SC is not in your skill set, be advised, some dealers may NOT want to install, but, most competent shops with skilled techs, can handle this just fine.
This is the short version so I can help and avoid writing a novel. Just do some background work and research so you know what you are doing.
***BTW, my supercharger is running fine and strong!!!!
Where and how to buy a TRD Supercharger:
Ebay, search for "4.7 trd supercharger" or combinations of that and try "Toyota" as a keyword as well set an alert and let it run.
Craigslist, search for the "4.7 trd supercharger" or combinations of the above, you're more likely to find a cheaper unit on craigslist, ebay has lots of eyes on it right now, don't ask how I know...
TundraSolutions classifieds, just search for "supercharger" or combinations of "super" and "charger"
TundraSolutions members post up superchargers when they see them, this doesn't help anyone get a better price that's for sure. Check out this forum thread
TRD Supercharger parts:
This is critical, if you don't get all the parts you will more than likely have to get them custom made, call any Toyota dealer and ask for TRD Supercharger parts and you will either hear someone laugh at you or tell you that there are no more TRD superchargers or parts for the 2UZFE engine.
Here is a list of parts you need to install it on a hundy:
All of this is cut and pasted out of the 1998-2002 Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470, 2001-2002 Sequoia, 2000-2002 Tundra installation instruction manual.
Parts list for 1998-2002 Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470, 2001-2002 Sequoia, 2000-2002 Tundra SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM (I didn't include all the bolts, most shops should have them on hand)
o supplied ½” x 17” rubber hose on the oil cooler pipe
o hose clamps
o idler bushing into the backside of the TRD idler pulley
o idler pulley
o water inlet housing bolts
o trd thermostat, and gasket (URD USA TRD Thermostat)
o two TRD supplied relocation brackets and two 6mm bolts to move wire loom housing towards firewall
o throttle cable support bracket 25.4mm (1.0 inch) spacer
o steel fuel return line
o nylon wrap over the passenger-side heater hose
o bypass actuator valve assemble kit
o 9th injector fuel delivery line
o banjo bolt and gaskets to install the 9th injector fuel delivery line
o front fuel pipe
o idler pulley bracket
o supplied drive belt - Tundra trucks use a 2700mm long, 6-rib belt. Sequoia, Land Cruiser and LX470 use a 2630mm long, 6-rib belt.
o 90-degree brass hose fitting for 3/16” x 29” long hose
o bracket to the rearmounting hole on the driver-side wire loom housing
o front wire loom bracket using the TRD intake manifold bolt
o 7/32” x 8” long bypass actuator hose
o 3/16” x 13” long hose from the upper port of the bypass actuator to the steel hose nipple
o two aluminum spacers on the passenger-side cam cover. The spacers will raise the intake air connector off the cam cover. The tall spacer is used for the rear mount. The short spacer is used for the front mount
o 3 ¼” diameter hose for the intake air connector
o TRD Engine Control Unit (ECU)
Hoses, gaskets, and bolts can be gotten fairly easily from any good mechanic shop, the harder pieces to find are the pulleys, bushings, brakets, actuators, spacers, fuel lines and ECU.
More threads on folks trying to find missing parts. Most of the links don't have the parts anymore.
Supercharger Inspection, rebuilds:
If you buy used, I have said before and will say it again, do yourself a favor and have someone like magnacharger.com inspect it and replace or repair any old bearings, or any issues with the unit.
Installation Instructions:
98-02 Gen 1 TRD Supercharger Installation guide or here
03-04 Gen 2 installation guide
TRD ECU Installation guide
Unichip instructions for replacing the TRD piggyback unit
Pully and Shim kit installation guide
TRD Boost Gauge Installation is attached to this post.
Tuning
Life does not end at installation, there seems to be two trains of thoughts on tuning.
1st train of thought is to just stick everything on and let it run.
You have to remember if this is the path you plan to take, and you are using the stock TRD ECU, it's programmed for everything else to be stock. So unless you're running stock size tires, exhaust, intake, etc, you may want to read up on the rest of this if you start having problems or if you are looking for long term reliability.
Many people here that put superchargers on also add headers and large tires. If you add some Doug Thorley headers and put 35's on, your setup isn't what the stock ECU was programmed for and you may start running lean and the higher temps will create issues.
Other common issues with a typical installation include: catalytic converts clogging up, rods getting bent because boost spikes due to the tuning of the above issues, the rods aren't inherently weak, it's other conditions that occur to create a situation where the supercharger's boost fluctuates enough to bend a rod.
2nd train of thought is to tune the supercharger based on the following variables:
• Heat (TRD Superchargers don't use intercoolers, instead the 9th and/or 10th injector uses extra fuel to cool the operation, the general goal for long term reliability and performance is to lower the heat, this may require a lower heat rating spark plug as well such as IK22)
• Air (Different intakes change the dynamic of the system, must be accounted for)
• Fuel (Same as air, any changes to the fuel delivery must be accounted for)
• Tires (if the speedometer signal isn't properly adjusted)
"People put on over-sized and or heavier tires without correcting the Speedometer signal which changes the LOD scaling the TRD piggyback uses for modification of the MAF signals correcting the transition into open loop from closed loop. Problem with this is you're going into 'open loop' later than you should because you're going faster than the speedo is reading/telling you. 200-300 RPM's off a map scale is all it takes because of larger tires without a speedo correction for ignition timing retard, air/fuel ratio changes can throw you into detonation from lean ratios. And most people wouldn't know what damage they were doing until it popped." - jamesjr4750 (and I've seen no one dispute this) link
• Exhuast - More from james in the same post as above: "Putting on different Intakes messing with the MAF sensor in certain cases, headers, mufflers changing the Air/Fuel ratios leading to detonation. My ignition timing changed from a simple muffler swap. Saw this on the OBDII scanner. Loss of power and detonation came back."
For fine tuning to avoid pinging, overheating and added wear and tear some folks monitor their air flow, fuel, heat and boost with a live time scanner to read the OBDII system and datalog for future analysis. More detailed information from jamesjr4750 starts here.
Issues with leaving not tuning the TRD Supercharger on a non stock vehicle:
Ultimately this seems to be your list of options for 100+ HP solutions, just the forced induction unit included for price comparison (exhaust, optional intercoolers, modifed intakes and tranny upgrades not included):
- AVO Turbo System from Slee = $7400
- Bullet SC no intercooler no exhaust = $7500
- TRD Supercharger, used or new off craigslist or ebay = $1500 (good luck) to $4k (They sold brand new back in the day for around $3500)
(the TRD units are notoriously sold with missing pieces, complete units I'm told used to sell for $1500-$2200 a year or two ago, most sales on ebay this year are in excess of $3k)
I chose the TRD route, the rest of the guide assumes you do too.
There is some talk of buying Bullet's intake manifold and putting a new generation Eaton SC on it (Click here for the TS Thread discussing it)
There is also a link here for a Tundra turbo from STS for $4k, but it may mount under the cab and potentially be a target for rocks and other stuff if you are off roading, no idea also whether a skidplate can protect it or how that would work.
There are some companies that will do stroker motors, TTC Performance for one, but price looks like at least $12k.
More reading material:
TS Member having mechanical issues and some discussion around forced induction options
More TS discussions about options for forced induction systems, the question asked is about turbo and supercharger options
STS at one point had a Turbo for the 2UZFE and specifically the Tundra
The OP is talking about dyno tuning and the thread gets into some technical details, the OP says his forced induction unit is a 'ASA TM-15 supercharger(6-7psi boost)'
Here a link to a ih8mud discussion thread about the Bullet supercharger, a newer, and more advanced supercharger for the hundy's
Here is a Lextreme forum member talking about their Bullet SC
Engine performance is discussed in this ih8mud forum thread
Then, get some general understanding of forced induction systems on the Toyota V8 engines, read everything you can here:
TS Forced Induction Thread
If you go with a TRD Superchager, there are some things you should know first:
jbtoy has a good word of caution here:
**Caution to anyone that wants an SC:
1. Do your homework so you know the language and the parts.Too many people buy units with missing parts because the seller and/or buyer have no idea what a complete unit looks like. There is a lot more to the SC, than just the blower.
2. Most units for sale will be used, but, if complete, work great as is. Some folks have rebuilt units before install (I just rebuilt a SC). There is also support in the marketplace
for this. I have not posted all of the resources, but, they are posted in other threads. See that forced induction section, again.
3. Do NOT buy a supercharger if you really want 20+ MPG. Also, the SC requires premium gas, so, if not prepared to do that, just pass on it.
4. If installing a SC is not in your skill set, be advised, some dealers may NOT want to install, but, most competent shops with skilled techs, can handle this just fine.
This is the short version so I can help and avoid writing a novel. Just do some background work and research so you know what you are doing.
***BTW, my supercharger is running fine and strong!!!!
Where and how to buy a TRD Supercharger:
Ebay, search for "4.7 trd supercharger" or combinations of that and try "Toyota" as a keyword as well set an alert and let it run.
Craigslist, search for the "4.7 trd supercharger" or combinations of the above, you're more likely to find a cheaper unit on craigslist, ebay has lots of eyes on it right now, don't ask how I know...
TundraSolutions classifieds, just search for "supercharger" or combinations of "super" and "charger"
TundraSolutions members post up superchargers when they see them, this doesn't help anyone get a better price that's for sure. Check out this forum thread
TRD Supercharger parts:
This is critical, if you don't get all the parts you will more than likely have to get them custom made, call any Toyota dealer and ask for TRD Supercharger parts and you will either hear someone laugh at you or tell you that there are no more TRD superchargers or parts for the 2UZFE engine.
Here is a list of parts you need to install it on a hundy:
All of this is cut and pasted out of the 1998-2002 Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470, 2001-2002 Sequoia, 2000-2002 Tundra installation instruction manual.
Parts list for 1998-2002 Land Cruiser/Lexus LX470, 2001-2002 Sequoia, 2000-2002 Tundra SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM (I didn't include all the bolts, most shops should have them on hand)
o supplied ½” x 17” rubber hose on the oil cooler pipe
o hose clamps
o idler bushing into the backside of the TRD idler pulley
o idler pulley
o water inlet housing bolts
o trd thermostat, and gasket (URD USA TRD Thermostat)
o two TRD supplied relocation brackets and two 6mm bolts to move wire loom housing towards firewall
o throttle cable support bracket 25.4mm (1.0 inch) spacer
o steel fuel return line
o nylon wrap over the passenger-side heater hose
o bypass actuator valve assemble kit
o 9th injector fuel delivery line
o banjo bolt and gaskets to install the 9th injector fuel delivery line
o front fuel pipe
o idler pulley bracket
o supplied drive belt - Tundra trucks use a 2700mm long, 6-rib belt. Sequoia, Land Cruiser and LX470 use a 2630mm long, 6-rib belt.
o 90-degree brass hose fitting for 3/16” x 29” long hose
o bracket to the rearmounting hole on the driver-side wire loom housing
o front wire loom bracket using the TRD intake manifold bolt
o 7/32” x 8” long bypass actuator hose
o 3/16” x 13” long hose from the upper port of the bypass actuator to the steel hose nipple
o two aluminum spacers on the passenger-side cam cover. The spacers will raise the intake air connector off the cam cover. The tall spacer is used for the rear mount. The short spacer is used for the front mount
o 3 ¼” diameter hose for the intake air connector
o TRD Engine Control Unit (ECU)
Hoses, gaskets, and bolts can be gotten fairly easily from any good mechanic shop, the harder pieces to find are the pulleys, bushings, brakets, actuators, spacers, fuel lines and ECU.
More threads on folks trying to find missing parts. Most of the links don't have the parts anymore.
Supercharger Inspection, rebuilds:
If you buy used, I have said before and will say it again, do yourself a favor and have someone like magnacharger.com inspect it and replace or repair any old bearings, or any issues with the unit.
Installation Instructions:
98-02 Gen 1 TRD Supercharger Installation guide or here
03-04 Gen 2 installation guide
TRD ECU Installation guide
Unichip instructions for replacing the TRD piggyback unit
Pully and Shim kit installation guide
TRD Boost Gauge Installation is attached to this post.
Tuning
Life does not end at installation, there seems to be two trains of thoughts on tuning.
1st train of thought is to just stick everything on and let it run.
You have to remember if this is the path you plan to take, and you are using the stock TRD ECU, it's programmed for everything else to be stock. So unless you're running stock size tires, exhaust, intake, etc, you may want to read up on the rest of this if you start having problems or if you are looking for long term reliability.
Many people here that put superchargers on also add headers and large tires. If you add some Doug Thorley headers and put 35's on, your setup isn't what the stock ECU was programmed for and you may start running lean and the higher temps will create issues.
Other common issues with a typical installation include: catalytic converts clogging up, rods getting bent because boost spikes due to the tuning of the above issues, the rods aren't inherently weak, it's other conditions that occur to create a situation where the supercharger's boost fluctuates enough to bend a rod.
2nd train of thought is to tune the supercharger based on the following variables:
• Heat (TRD Superchargers don't use intercoolers, instead the 9th and/or 10th injector uses extra fuel to cool the operation, the general goal for long term reliability and performance is to lower the heat, this may require a lower heat rating spark plug as well such as IK22)
• Air (Different intakes change the dynamic of the system, must be accounted for)
• Fuel (Same as air, any changes to the fuel delivery must be accounted for)
• Tires (if the speedometer signal isn't properly adjusted)
"People put on over-sized and or heavier tires without correcting the Speedometer signal which changes the LOD scaling the TRD piggyback uses for modification of the MAF signals correcting the transition into open loop from closed loop. Problem with this is you're going into 'open loop' later than you should because you're going faster than the speedo is reading/telling you. 200-300 RPM's off a map scale is all it takes because of larger tires without a speedo correction for ignition timing retard, air/fuel ratio changes can throw you into detonation from lean ratios. And most people wouldn't know what damage they were doing until it popped." - jamesjr4750 (and I've seen no one dispute this) link
• Exhuast - More from james in the same post as above: "Putting on different Intakes messing with the MAF sensor in certain cases, headers, mufflers changing the Air/Fuel ratios leading to detonation. My ignition timing changed from a simple muffler swap. Saw this on the OBDII scanner. Loss of power and detonation came back."
For fine tuning to avoid pinging, overheating and added wear and tear some folks monitor their air flow, fuel, heat and boost with a live time scanner to read the OBDII system and datalog for future analysis. More detailed information from jamesjr4750 starts here.
Issues with leaving not tuning the TRD Supercharger on a non stock vehicle:
- Catalytic Converts plugging up
- Here's a build thread of someone on TS whose goal was increased performance 1st and reliability 2nd. At 10-12 psi the rods bent. This is more of a story of pushing the limits, but shows what happens when air, heat and fuel are not properly managed.
There is a dispute about rods in comments on this thread which points to several other threads. I haven't seen any compelling evidence either way as an un biased party to confirm or deny that LX and LC rods are stronger than Tundra rods, either way, I would still think that pushing the boost into the 10+ psi range you are asking for trouble.
Last edited:
