Rusty or Self Etch Primer (1 Viewer)

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scrapdaddy

scrapdaddy

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I have scraped and wire wheeled the entire under body of my 55, now I want to prime. Rusty metal primer from Rust-oleum or a self etching primer. I would like to get all the little places that didn't get down to bare metal, cracks, etc. with the rusty metal primer. Is it ok to use on the bare metal also.

Thanks, Ron
 
Here's a picture
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You've put a lot of hard work into that thing. Don't skimp now by using hardware store paints. I would try to borrow a sandblaster from a friend or another local Mudder. If you're planning on painting, you probably have a big enough compressor to blast a few small spots. I would avoid self etching primer. You should never paint (or bedliner, or epoxy prime) directly over most self etching primers. They require a surfacer primer to be applied over them, or you'll have adhesion problems down the road. That = more product = more money. I would use a quality 2k (epoxy) primer and then topcoat with paint or bedliner, etc...
 
Splangy thanks for responding,

What I was thinking, Some type of primer to stop any little spot of rust, then use Lizard Skin [ noise and heat product ] and last a bedliner product. You suggest a epoxy primer instead of rattle can. You forgot more than I'll ever know about all this, so tell what product, you would use.
I'm not set up for spraying, yet, but will be shortly. I bought the 55, as a body and frame. The body was already painted, I just want to do the under side, before putting back on the frame.
 
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Take your pick. One works better than the other. One is easier to use, and far cheaper. They are the only two I use.

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Use the PPG epoxy primer, you will never have rust issues again.

Just put some reducer in it and it will act as a really good sealant. Then use the shop line of PPG single stage to top coat it.

In my opnion, that combo is just as good as Por-15.
 
snobdds said:
Use the PPG epoxy primer, you will never have rust issues again.

Just put some reducer in it and it will act as a really good sealant. Then use the shop line of PPG single stage to top coat it.

In my opnion, that combo is just as good as Por-15.
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Are you kidding me? Its WAY superior to POR-15 or any similar products. There's no comparison between a properly applied, quality 2k epoxy primer and a rust band-aid like POR-15.

To save quite a few bucks, consider going with PPG's Omni brand epoxy primer. It's a fraction of the cost and will provide similar results to the PPG DPLF.
 
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Splangy said:
Are you kidding me? Its WAY superior to POR-15 or any similar products. There's no comparison between a properly applied, quality 2k epoxy primer and a rust band-aid like POR-15.

To save quite a few bucks, consider going with PPG's Omni brand epoxy primer. It's a fraction of the cost and will provide similar results to the PPG DPLF.
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POR-15 is not bad stuff, I don't think we should discount it in any way. I just started to use the PPG DP90, so I can't give any long term input, however from what I've seen...its good stuff.

Why do you think POR-15 is a rust band aid? Everything I have used it on has held up great. Prep is everything with that stuff... :cheers:
 
Newb question: what is the best way to remove all the old rust, just grind it away then use the epoxy primer followed by paint.
 
Splangy said:
POR is a band-aid because it is intended to be painted over rust. The best way to prevent further rust is remove all of it and then use top qualify coatings over the properly prepared surface.
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I don't know where your getting POR-15 can be painted directly over paint, but that is not correct information. POR-15 has to be applied just like any other quality sealant. All the rust must be removed, then the top coatings are applied. Again, it is all about surface prep...:cheers:
 
snobdds said:
I don't know where your getting POR-15 can be painted directly over paint, but that is not correct information. POR-15 has to be applied just like any other quality sealant. All the rust must be removed, then the top coatings are applied. Again, it is all about surface prep...:cheers:
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I never said POR-15 can be used over other paint. In fact, I would STRONGLY not recommend it. POR-15 should NOT be apllied like any other coating (what did you mean by "sealant", anyways? The only sealers I know of are those applied before color coats to provide a uniform surface for color.) POR should only be applied to cleaned rust or to an equally rough surface like sandblasted steel (even that can pressent issues). Read the POR-15 instructions and you'll see that it absolutely should NOT be appled like other automotive coatings.
 
I'm starting to think about paint and primer and rust that is so common to 40's. Reading different threads, I found this post very interesting and was wondering if the epoxy primer is a good way to go on a frame and axles. What color is this primer?
 
thetoyotaman said:
I'm starting to think about paint and primer and rust that is so common to 40's. Reading different threads, I found this post very interesting and was wondering if the epoxy primer is a good way to go on a frame and axles. What color is this primer?
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You can get epoxy primers in many colors depending on the manufacturer. It's a good coating for any steel automotive surface. Remember that prep is everything. If you're going to leave a bunch of rust on the surface, just POR it.
 
Since my 40 was hit I am starting to seriously consider a frame off. I'm trying to figure out what the best way is to paint the frame and axles as well as skid plates, etc. I could have the frame sandblasted, but what about inside the frame where it is hard to reach? Is it better to treat the rust with rust converter or phosphoric acid or naval jelly? If found a place that can blast the frame. I'm also wondering about galvanizing but don't think there is anywhere close to do that. Thanks for the help with all the newbie questions for paint and body.
 
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