Opinions on oil (1 Viewer)

[scuba steve]

I've run Amsoil in nearly all of my trucks, but out of convenience I have a guy down the road that sells both royal purple and redline in a diesel synthetic.
I hear amazing reviews about all the mentioned, but would love some feedback for Toyota diesels and how they've treated your trucks.

 

[gerg]

I run redline and amsoil 15-40 all year. I wouldnt run royal purple if you gave it to me. It has be litigated against for grossly exaggerating its claims. Swepco is also good but expensive. I always run moly and zink additive as well. Synthetics are expensive unless you run a fine bypass filter to extend change intervalls, or you have a clean DI engine.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

I did run amsoil for 50 000km's or so and changed it only slightly over 5000km intervals because of how black my 3B makes oil... Which I eventually realized is kind of a waste of money... So I switched to rotella and buy it in 5 gallon pails, basically 1 amsoil oil change costs the same as 3 rotella changes... I also started running bosch distance plus filters... Which I do think help keep the oil a little cleaner (but that maybe in my head, lol)

What motor are we talking?

As Gerg said I think if it was DI, synthedics are more " worth " it they tend to keep oil cleaner... IDI engines make your oil look nasty on the engines 2nd revolution after startup on a fresh oil change...

If you're like me and change you oil like it's the gospel or something every month or two then run dino... If you're a guy that realizes after he hears a new noise coming from under the hood you haven't changed your oil in 30 000km's run amsoil or redline...

I tend to agree with what gerg said about royal purple, i'd run it, but I wouldn't pay for it!

Also none of my experience really "means" anything just my opinion. The old 3B still runs great so the oil's I use are doing their jobs....

 

[roscoFJ73]

I've run Amsoil in nearly all of my trucks, but out of convenience I have a guy down the road that sells both royal purple and redline in a diesel synthetic.
I hear amazing reviews about all the mentioned, but would love some feedback for Toyota diesels and how they've treated your trucks.

Its near on impossible to judge oil quality without a standard test carried out over 100000s or even millions of klms or miles on numerous vehicles.You cant use X brand oil for 6 months ,then use Y brand and say one was better than the other.
Comments like "it seemed to run quieter" or it seemed to make less smoke" dont cut it with me.

You would still need an extensive laboratory and trained staff to analyze the results,but by the time you have done all your testing,the brands you started with would no longer be exactly the same as those on sale because oil recipes are frequently changed.

I dont think brands are going to make much difference if you are using a well known brand of oil and do the changes regularly.
I remember a neighbour we had in the 60s who owned a 1962 holden taxi with 400000 miles on its 138ci grey motor.
He use to hit 100mph in it sometimes
He certainly didnt have the fancy oils we have now.
I think driving patterns like keeping the engine warm and driving long distances rather than short hops to work are the real keys to long engine life.

 

[romey]

agreed with Rosco. too many confounding variables and anecdotal evidence from every one. if you haven't noticed my post, i shared lab results after using amsoil up to 22K kms. i have put about 100K kms on my hdj81 now since 2006 (bought with under 50K kms at the time, 4B auction, one owner in japan). so yeah, i'll say she runs quietly, and very little smoke, but as mentioned, that don't mean jacko! so now i'm down to trusting the lab results! with my 20K oil changes at 10K filter changes, i've already made it cheaper than rotella dino x the equivalent of 4 oil changes at 5K. i've used rotella T and i remember how black that stuff got after under 1K kms... at around 6K kms, the amsoil in the 80 still looks half golden brown, for what it's worth....
anyway, have a gander at my numbers and make your own conclusions..
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tec...s-1hdt-15w40-amsoil-delica-bypass-system.html

i've also only ever used oem filters or donaldson.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

Yea a by pass filtration system is a good thing to have when running synthetics.... Without it the oil get's loaded with soot well before it's actually worn out as an oil...

I never noticed amsoil being cleaner in my 3B, as I said in my post as soon as the engine starts my oil is black...

Cheers

 

[roscoFJ73]

I think the other important thing to remember when choosing oils is the viscosity. I checked the 15-50 semi synth in my HZJ75 after a few hundred klms in 35c and it was like black water on the dip stick.
I hate to think what 10-40 would be like that some aussies insist on using in summer.

 

[Ron R]

YES, viscosity is important.
I had a discussion with the company that changed the oil in my 1HZ.
Have had them change the oil for years (my rig is 17 years old by now) and never had any complaint.
Suddenly they filled it with 5W/30 instead of the usual 15W/40.
They refused to use the 15W/40 saying this was the oil recommended by Toyota. I showed them the tables in the manual, but they still refused, saying modern oils are much better than the old oils. BS!!!! Modern oils may last longer but viscosity is viscosity, also for 'modern' engine oils
I had to ask Toyota to backup their opinion (keep to the tables in the manual) in writing and had an argument with their main office showing them "the evidence" before I could convince them they were wrong.
5W/30 can be used in the 1HZ engine but only at temps not exceeding 10 deg Celsius. Toyota stated in writing that engine damage was likely at temps above 10 deg C using 5W/30. That was what made them alter their opinion and exchange the oil for free for 15W/40.

 

[markthemenace]

I find it amazing that a company you pay to do the oil change for you, can tell you what to put in your car, and then require you to go to the trouble of getting them "evidence" that you were right. One would think the 17 years of running "right" would be evidence enough...not that it were needed.

 

[cruiser_guy]

YES, viscosity is important.
I had a discussion with the company that changed the oil in my 1HZ.
Have had them change the oil for years (my rig is 17 years old by now) and never had any complaint.
Suddenly they filled it with 5W/30 instead of the usual 15W/40.
They refused to use the 15W/40 saying this was the oil recommended by Toyota. I showed them the tables in the manual, but they still refused, saying modern oils are much better than the old oils. BS!!!! Modern oils may last longer but viscosity is viscosity, also for 'modern' engine oils
I had to ask Toyota to backup their opinion (keep to the tables in the manual) in writing and had an argument with their main office showing them "the evidence" before I could convince them they were wrong.
5W/30 can be used in the 1HZ engine but only at temps not exceeding 10 deg Celsius. Toyota stated in writing that engine damage was likely at temps above 10 deg C using 5W/30. That was what made them alter their opinion and exchange the oil for free for 15W/40.

Do they not first fill out an "order sheet"? I usually change my own oil but when I have had it done I've always had an order sheet that spells out the oil to be used and the services to be performed BEFORE the work is even started. If someone were to tell me something different to what I want I'd simply up and leave if they wouldn't change there mind to "The customer is always right!"

 

[gerg]

Another reason why I wouldnt let any of those monkeys touch my truck. If anyone is going to screw up my truck up, it' will be me!

 

[Eric Winkworth]

I agree with Gerg...

I've seen and herd too many horror stories to ever get my oil changed by a lube shop... Using impact guns to tighten drain plugs, putting on someone elses drain plug and stripped the hole, under filled, over filled, not changed at all, didn't change the filter on and on and on...

It's an easy thing to do and getting under your truck and inspecting things as the oil drains never hurt either...

 

[canucksafari]

I've used commercial truck shops in the past. Not cheap but well worth it: $100 and I supply the filters. They are not about to mess up a $30,000 + engine. They always ask the torque specs and ask if I want the filters wrench tightened. I guess a lot of truckers like the filters snugged up a bit over norm.

 

[romey]

guess commercial trucks/shops is another story. totally different from the highschool coop kids working on your car at a "mr. drive thru oil change". anyway, not everyone can/or choose to do their own changes, sa'll good. so long as the right people are doing it. but you should give it a try Ron R, it's the easiset thing to do on your truck outisde of checking tire pressure (filter is right there easy to get to).

 

[ForealBoreal]

I just got my oil analysis back. I have been running Rotella T 10W-30 since I bought the truck.



Ok oil was put in November. 4900kms and I changed it at the very beginning of march.
Lots of cold start including a week at about -20 if not a little colder. Truck started no issues. Lots of short 5 min runs to work (not getting the truck to temp)

From what I can see I got slightly higher Pb (lead) numbers indicating bearing wear. I am wondering if this was the cold starts in the really cold. I am going to test again on this oil at the end of May when I am back from school. I have a trip down to Victoria and back on this oil. Should be 5000kms when i get back if not a few hundred more.

I am curious to see if I still get higher lead numbers after this analysis. I will be putting the bulk of kms (1400kms in two days and roughly 2800kms of highway driving total in 4 days. If I still get high oil lead numbers I may switch to something else and give it a go. The other thought its a bypass filter.
If I don't get high numbers I might run a different oil over the next winter.

Thoughts?

 

[darthvincor]

Another reason why I wouldnt let any of those monkeys touch my truck. If anyone is going to screw up my truck up, it' will be me!

Same here.
I can barely tolerate the annual safety inspection.

As has been said, viscosity and frequency are more important than brand.

 

[romey]

I just got my oil analysis back. I have been running Rotella T 10W-30 since I bought the truck.

View attachment 612906

Ok oil was put in November. 4900kms and I changed it at the very beginning of march.
Lots of cold start including a week at about -20 if not a little colder. Truck started no issues. Lots of short 5 min runs to work (not getting the truck to temp)

From what I can see I got slightly higher Pb (lead) numbers indicating bearing wear. I am wondering if this was the cold starts in the really cold. I am going to test again on this oil at the end of May when I am back from school. I have a trip down to Victoria and back on this oil. Should be 5000kms when i get back if not a few hundred more.

I am curious to see if I still get higher lead numbers after this analysis. I will be putting the bulk of kms (1400kms in two days and roughly 2800kms of highway driving total in 4 days. If I still get high oil lead numbers I may switch to something else and give it a go. The other thought its a bypass filter.
If I don't get high numbers I might run a different oil over the next winter.

Thoughts?

hmm, i'm going to assume that your units are the same as mine in my oil analysis. if that's the case then the company i went with, already gave me a caution on pB levels of 29 (you're at 58) +30 is considered "red" zone, for what it's worth. it's on the 77 right? i'm no expert, but we take about the same amount of oil and the two engines are quite related/similar..it maybe apples to pears with a hz and hdt and 2 different companies providing the lab results. BUT you are running regular dyno oil vs my amsoil synthetic. i had very similar start and stop times all winter long as the 80 was mostly used to take the kids to daycare then the train/bus station, just warmin up when it had to be shut down. but we'll never really know unless i sent a sample to your guy and you to mine, lol. why not just run full synthetic on it?

are you still keeping the same filter and oil till the next analysis? if so, then my only assumption is that your oil will only get "dirtier" and all the numbers should go up? are your drain/filter intervals at every 10K with the dino?
anyway, just my anecdotal 2 cents!

 

[ForealBoreal]

I do a filter and oil change at 5000 kms religiously

I will test again after this round and decide then.

 

[romey]

roger that. so with the warmer weather and more highway miles, you're expecting the numbers to be lower. cool, lookin forward to seein the next analysis!

 

[ForealBoreal]

roger that. so with the warmer weather and more highway miles, you're expecting the numbers to be lower. cool, lookin forward to seein the next analysis!

I am too because I have half a pail of the rotella still!

I didn't ever bother with the synthetic in the engine being an idi diesel. It gets dirty quick. With a 1hd-t I was planning on switching to synthetic but didn't because I sold it shortly after the idea.

We should create an oil analysis thread

I am content with the 25 bucks spent