How not to build the 2F (2 Viewers)

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FJ40Jim

The Cruiser Whisperer
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Sep 26, 2003
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Location
Lancaster, Ohio, USA
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www.tlcperformance.com
This thread will document common errors in Cruiser engine building.
These are in no specific order, just pictures of stuff that has passed through the shop.

First, save some money by using the inexpensive HEI distributor. The truck was still running, even with half of the gear tooth worn away. HEI dissy on the left was installed 5K miles prior. Toyota dissy pictured on right with 150K miles gear for comparison.

Fix is rebuilt Denso dissy and electronic ignition.
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That's odd in that the gear is not HEI but a Toyota-like gear. Wonder if it is an aftermarket version of the Toyota gear that didn't get the right heat treatment...

Nick
 
Great thread Jim, looking forward to more!
 
Jim,

Can anyone post stuff they have seen / have on hand right now ?
 
this outta be a good one.........

one of my customers pulled his 40 out of a shop after they had it for two years to "rebuild" the 2F in it. head gasket was on backwards, they moved the valve train "bosses" around so no oil got to the top end,......real experts.
and don't even get me started on "experts" and them doing vortec conversions. i have pics that'll horrify most people. ahhh, the power of advertising. :rolleyes:


i'm sure Jim has seen some real duzy's as well.


fwiw, i refuse to install gm distributors in toyota engines. that's about one of the dumbest ideas out there when you can install a factory part that'll do the same thing for ya and is actually designed to work that way. ;p
 
For maximum carnage, be sure to leave off the retaining clip on the end of the camshaft. After all, the gear is keyed and pressed in place, the clip isn't really necessary on top of the other locating methods.

As the cam tries to walk away from the gear, it will hit the rear cam plug & drive it out of the block, but don't let that worry you, as the bellhousing will prevent it from actually falling out on the road.

As the cam gear loses it's press fit, it will walk off the front of the cam, but the slinger and the timing cover will prevent it from getting too far away.

In this pic, the clip was never installed, and the gear has walked as far off the front of the cam as it could, before the slinger stopped it's unplanned excursion.
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Be sure to use top quality chinese timing gear, they real good.

Chinese ITM gear=$40
Japanese Joint Fuji gear=$80
Breakdown on the side of the interstate, and 8hrs labor to replace cam= priceless.
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This is quicky shaping up to be the best thread in a while! :grinpimp:
 
When storing an engine outside, don't worry about covering it. The air cleaner will do a good job of collecting rainwater and trickling it down the air cleaner stud. The water will coat the carburetor and cylinders w/ open intake valves w/ a coat of protective rust.
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Antifreeze is overrated. The core plugs are in the block to allow the ice to escape when it freezes.
It's only occasionally that the ice will crack the side of the block around a core plug hole. Replacing a block is much cheaper than 2 gallons of Prestone, right?
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I've got an antifreeze story....

On a road trip in early 2005 I had my 81 hj45 Troopie on the trailer behind my tow rig. Driving thru eastern NV after midnight the temps dipped slightly below zero. Factor in wind chill from driving along at 65-70mph means it's really friggen cold. Crashed out at a roadside hotel at 2.30 am. Get up the next morning, check the row rig and trailer. It's now 10degs out. Under the Troopie on the trailer there's a green obstacle shaped like a small cow patty. I'm baffled for a second. Then I see green icicles just above it. I pop the hood and find one of the freezeplugs had gotten pushed out if the block just below the intake. It was still sitting there, on top if the green "waterfall". So I grabed it with my leathernan and put it in my pocket.
Got to our next destination that night. Used a brass drift and hammer to knock the freeze plug back in place. I think I have a pic of it somewhere.
Well, it's still there.

I bet the block would have cracked if I had straight water in there......
 
this outta be a good one.........

i'm sure Jim has seen some real duzy's as well.

I've had the pleasure of looking over Jim's shoulder on occasion to see some of the "fixed" carbs that come through his shop. There are definitlely "duzy's"! FWIW most of the pics are from only the last week or so. I have no idea how far back Jim's library of horror goes... :hmm:

Jim, I'll have you know that rusty carb had not only the air cleaner on it but a hood over it too. :doh:

Nick
 
Be sure to use top quality chinese timing gear, they real good.

Chinese ITM gear=$40
Japanese Joint Fuji gear=$80
Breakdown on the side of the interstate, and 8hrs labor to replace cam= priceless.

Do you have a part number for the joint fuji gear? How man miles did the ITM in the picture have on it?
 
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Experts say the head bolt holes should be thread chased and re-chamfered when the engine is rebuilt. Otherwise the deck can pull up around the bolt hole and prevent the head from sitting down flat on the block.

That never happens, right?
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When desmogging the 79-87 engine, connecting vac to both vac advance fittings will give 26* vac advance. Combine that with 25* of mechanical advance, and 10* of base timing, and there could be a total of 61* of advance at interstate RPM under moderate throttle. The spark knock will be loud, but not loud enough to be heard above Swamper howl. As the rod bearings are beat to death, they will also make a racket, but that will be inaudible above the swamper howl and the Grateful dead bootleg CD. Fortunately, the engine will shut itself down once the rods separate from the crank, preventing serious damage.
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