My 1998 LC plastic key fob has cracked so I found a replacement fob (with key) on eBay. The new fob has the Toyota emblem, etc. so it looks like an OEM part. I took this to the hardware store and they cut the new key using my old key. The new key fits and the car turns over. But it won't start using this key, it just keeps turning over. I can insert my old key and it starts right up. I did a search to see if this issue has been raised before but didn't find anything. Any ideas? Thanks.
1998 LC Key replacement (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter twestrope
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I'm guessing your key is programmed same as mine. They have a transistor chip that sends a signal that allow the engine to actually start. If you dont have the chip on the key the ignition will turn and turn but the engine wont start.
We've got 4 toyotas at home including my 90 series and all of them are the same. We keep spare keys in case we leave the keys inside the car. These keys work as far as opening it goes, but they wont start the engine
We've got 4 toyotas at home including my 90 series and all of them are the same. We keep spare keys in case we leave the keys inside the car. These keys work as far as opening it goes, but they wont start the engine
Twestrope, I suspect you're talking about a 100 series Land Cruiser. Is it a V8? Are you US based? The series refer to the model and not production years. If my assumption is correct, please let me know and I will move this to the 100 series forum. Thanks!
That´s right, there is an immobilizer. You should get it cloned somehow, but it´s not possible to the key frame you have. I have get it done in local key shop in Finland, cost about 40 €.
Other possibility is change the ECU box to Prado model. They have no immobilizer. But this is a real option after you have lost all your keys.
Other possibility is change the ECU box to Prado model. They have no immobilizer. But this is a real option after you have lost all your keys.
- Thread starter
- #5
Yes, it is a V-8, 1998 Land Cruiser.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
You need to program the key to the security system.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ing-transponder-key-99-tlc-5.html#post4920748
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ing-transponder-key-99-tlc-5.html#post4920748
Are your old and new key the three button transponder keys? If so, you need to take the key fob apart and put the old transponder in the new key. That's what I did with my and my wife's keys for our '99 and it's been flawless. No reprogramming required.
- Thread starter
- #9
The old and new key both have the three buttons. I was in the hardware store parking lot when I tried the new key and didn't have a small screw driver so I had not moved the transponder unit that is inside the old key fob over to the new key.
Sounds like you fixed your problem! And while on the subject of hardware store keys, may I suggest that you do what I did in this thread to save from ever having your plastic key shell break again!
https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/388841-permanent-solution-weak-key-shell-problem.html
That happened to mine too. The electronic part of the key with the bottons can be removed from the rest of the key and dropped into the new key. That's what i'm doing with mine.
Also for spare keys, you can order blank Toyota Keys and take them to the dealer. I payed like $7 each for some non remote keys, and brought them to the dealer to cut and program. They just charge for programming and can program as many as you want for $65ish. Cutting is free.
Point being: if you're going to pay the dealer to program the keys, might as well gets some extras done at the same time.
As i'm sure someone has mentioned, you can supposedly program them yourself doing some brake pedal tapping routine. Search the forums for it.
Also for spare keys, you can order blank Toyota Keys and take them to the dealer. I payed like $7 each for some non remote keys, and brought them to the dealer to cut and program. They just charge for programming and can program as many as you want for $65ish. Cutting is free.
Point being: if you're going to pay the dealer to program the keys, might as well gets some extras done at the same time.
As i'm sure someone has mentioned, you can supposedly program them yourself doing some brake pedal tapping routine. Search the forums for it.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Like, 4 posts up?
Topoguide posted this in an aforementioned thread: In my research to figure out how to program keys to my LC I have compiled the following steps for all model year 100 series. I am posting this so that all steps for all models can be found in one list. Please note there are other variations that may work fine, but the below seem to work every time from posts I have read. Hope it helps. The below information applies to the 4C and 4D transponder keys. The 4C is 1998-2002 also referred to as the “sequence E” programming steps; all steps below work for programming that key. The 4D chip is for 2003+ 100 series, also referred to as “sequence I” programming steps; many steps below will work for all 03+, however the ECU can not be programmed for 03-04 start capability without a computer per FSM (05+ should program with these steps from what I have read). Also, please note that timing is critical, you must be spot on. If a sequence fails try again making sure the timing is exact. If you are still unable to program the new key into the ECU you may have too many keys programmed; there can be up to 5 master keys and 3 valet keys (per 03-04 FSM). If unsure you can clear all but one master key and program/reprogram any existing keys. Tell what key you have: To determine if the key(s) have been properly programmed into the ECM you may utilize the following procedure: 1. Positively locate the “security” or “anti-theft” light. This light should blink when there is no key in the ignition or if an unrecognized key is placed into the ignition. 2. Insert the key you have into the ignition – DO NOT TURN ON. There are 3 possible things that may occur: * Security light continues to blink = unrecognized key. * Security light goes off IMMEDIATELY = MASTER key * Security light remains illuminated for 1-3 seconds before going out = VALET key ***FOR ALL PROCEDURES BELOW make sure you start with the following steps unless otherwise stated: 1. All windows are up 2. All doors are shut and locked except for the drivers door which should be unlocked Delete all but one master key: To delete all but one key from the unit (ECM): 1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. 2. Insert an existing master key into the ignition cylinder. Do not turn the key from the OFF (LOCK) position. 3. Within fifteen seconds of inserting the key, depress and release the accelerator pedal six times. 4. Within twenty seconds of completing the above step, depress and release the brake pedal seven times. 5. The security light will flash, indicating all keys other than the one being used have been deleted. 6. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds. ***Alternative method possibly for sequence I vehicles (2003+) 1. Insert Master Key and Cycle ignition 6 times (Lock to on then back to lock) 2. Within 35 seconds open and close Drivers side door 7 (seven) times. 3. Remove the key from the ignition cylinder within ten seconds. Program new key (sequence E): 1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. 2. Insert existing master key into ignition. 3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times. 4. Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key. 5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition. 6. Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time. 7. After 80 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off. 8. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time. Program new key (sequence I – 2003+): 1. Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. 2. Insert existing master key into ignition. 3. Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times. 4. Within 20 seconds open and close the “driver side” door 6 times and remove key. 5. Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition. 6. Turn the ignition cylinder ON and leave on for two minutes. 7. Turn ignition cylinder OFF and remove new key 8. Open and close the “driver side” door 1 (one) time. 9. After 60 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off. 10. Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time. Erase Remote Procedure (years this works on unknown): 1. Make sure no keys are in the ignition lock and the drivers door is open and unlocked. 2. Put the key in the ignition and remove it. 3. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times. 4. Close the drivers door and open it. 5. Press the lock button for 1 second, press the unlock button for 1 second and repeat 5 times. 6. Put the key in the ignition. 7. Turn ignition ON for 1 second and then off for 1 second then on for 1 second and remove key. 8. The power door locks should cycle 2 times. 9. Press the lock and unlock button for 2 seconds, then press the unlock for 1 second. 10. If the remote is programmed the doors will cycle once. If failed the doors will cycle 2 times. 11. Open drivers door to end procedure. Program Remote: (sequence E) 1. Start with key out of ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and driver’s door is unlocked. 2. Insert key into the ignition (Do NOT Turn) and Pull key out. 3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. * Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock). * Close, then open drivers door. 4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. * Using the power lock switch on the drivers door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. Use an even pace and try to go about one cycle per second. (1Cycle = 1 lock and 1 unlock). * Insert the key in the ignition cylinder. * Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF. * Remove the key from the ignition. 5. Within 3 seconds the power door locks should cycle automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point. 6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. * Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1 second. * Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle once indicating successful programming. If the door locks do not cycle, or cycle twice. Repeat steps A and B in step 6 as your remote has not been accepted. * Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote. 7. Close drivers door. Program Remote: (sequence I – 2003+) 1. Start with the key out of the ignition, drivers door is open all others closed and drivers door is unlocked. 2. Perform these steps within 5 seconds. * Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out. * Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out. 3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. * Close then open the drivers door. * Close then open the drivers door. * Insert the key into the ignition(Do NOT Turn) Pull key out. 4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. * Close then open the drivers door. * Close then open the drivers door. * Insert the key into ignition and leave it in ignition. * Close the drivers door. * Turn the ignition to ON (Do NOT Start) then back to OFF. * Remove the key from the ignition. 5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should lock then unlock automatically indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point. 6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds. * Press the lock and unlock buttons on the remote simultaneously for 1.5 seconds. * Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, Press the lock button by itself and hold for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should lock and then unlock once indicating successful programming. If the door locks cycle twice, repeat steps A and B in step 6 as the remote was not accepted. * Repeat steps A and B in step 6 for each new remote. 7. Open drivers door.
dude... floppy... way too much information.
Why not just go to a locksmith and have them clone your existing key?
RF-chip-key cloning can now be done by any competent locksmith for about 50 bucks, and there is no need to program anything into the truck's ECU/ security system. They can replicate your existing key as many times as you want and the truck thinks all of the replicates are the same key.
It is a good idea to have a couple extra key copies, because if you lose all of the existing keys, the solution is more complicated, (but it would not actually require replacing the truck's ECU as it did in the past). For a good locksmith that understands RF transponders, the 100-series security system is not really a tough nut to crack.
To the original poster~ if you take the RF chip out of the old key and put it in the new key, it should work fine. A locksmith could then 'clone' that key for you, RF chip included, for about 50 bucks.
The 50 dollar key would not have the remote buttons, but it would start your truck and open all the doors. As you have discovered, the 100-series has a security system that cuts the fuel supply unless the receiver (located around the ignition keyhole) detects an RF transponder that is recognized by the truck's ECU.
There are 2 ways to make a new key that the ECU will recognize: either program a new key into the system (complicated and sometimes doesn't work); OR clone an existing key (simple and works every time). Support your local locksmith!
Why not just go to a locksmith and have them clone your existing key?
RF-chip-key cloning can now be done by any competent locksmith for about 50 bucks, and there is no need to program anything into the truck's ECU/ security system. They can replicate your existing key as many times as you want and the truck thinks all of the replicates are the same key.
It is a good idea to have a couple extra key copies, because if you lose all of the existing keys, the solution is more complicated, (but it would not actually require replacing the truck's ECU as it did in the past). For a good locksmith that understands RF transponders, the 100-series security system is not really a tough nut to crack.
To the original poster~ if you take the RF chip out of the old key and put it in the new key, it should work fine. A locksmith could then 'clone' that key for you, RF chip included, for about 50 bucks.
The 50 dollar key would not have the remote buttons, but it would start your truck and open all the doors. As you have discovered, the 100-series has a security system that cuts the fuel supply unless the receiver (located around the ignition keyhole) detects an RF transponder that is recognized by the truck's ECU.
There are 2 ways to make a new key that the ECU will recognize: either program a new key into the system (complicated and sometimes doesn't work); OR clone an existing key (simple and works every time). Support your local locksmith!
actually it's floopy... and sorry for the info overload. The firewall at work cause the forum to load strangely, so I'm not sure how easy it was to read my post, but here is the link: https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series...ng-transponder-key-99-tlc-5.html?nojs=1#links It's really simple
Ahhh yes-- floopy -- your instructions make much more sense when the formatting is preserved, as in the link you provided.
And you are right- if the original poster already has a OEM chip key that is cut to fit the locks, then it makes sense to program that key into the truck's ECU, per your instructions.
I have had good experiences with a locksmith cloning the master key for my cruiser and so wanted to share that with the board.
I think RF-chip cloning and reverse cloning have become commonplace over the last few years. As a result, problems that used to involve programming (or even replacing) the ECU can now be solved by making new keys that are already "programmed" into the truck's system .
Cheers.
And you are right- if the original poster already has a OEM chip key that is cut to fit the locks, then it makes sense to program that key into the truck's ECU, per your instructions.
I have had good experiences with a locksmith cloning the master key for my cruiser and so wanted to share that with the board.
I think RF-chip cloning and reverse cloning have become commonplace over the last few years. As a result, problems that used to involve programming (or even replacing) the ECU can now be solved by making new keys that are already "programmed" into the truck's system .
Cheers.
- Thread starter
- #17
Just to follow-up. After having the guy at Ace hardware cut the blank key (free) I put the 1" square unit that was inside the old key fob into the new one and everyting worked fine. My old key no longer works but I have an extra set so my problem is solved. Thanks for the the help.
