Can an ARB fridge be run off an inverter in a vehicle? I seem to recall for some reason that it was not recommended, but can't find any info on that.
ARB fridge off inverter (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Enigma
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Jacket
Moderator
How big is the inverter? Pure sine or modified sine?
- Thread starter
- #3
I'm looking at a 1500W unit that's on sale right now at Canadian Tire (company website is down for maintenance at the moment). I think they are rebadged Xantrex's.
Would the preference be for pure sine wave?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
The answer is yes depending on the wattage of the inverter. Pure/mod sine doesn't matter for the fridge but if you do the power calculations of DC vs AC you will find it's more efficient to run it DC.
after having blown up a too small inverter pushing it too far too many times to power an overly large house fridge as an experiment, I feel justified in saying that the key is having a large enough inverter, as in several times the normal current draw. (Remember your starting draw will probably be already 2 or 3x the steady state one.) I suppose it is possible that the waveform might matter but I think that is unlikely. Now a mobile ARB type fridge will take around 5A when it's running, IIRC, so we could call that 70W. (check out the specs.) 1500W seems like it should be plenty.
Of course, all of that is moot if your fridge works OK off 12V. That's not the case?
Of course, all of that is moot if your fridge works OK off 12V. That's not the case?
- Thread starter
- #6
The one on sale is a modified sine wave, I think I'll go grab it, seems like a good price at $99 bux on sale.
Canadian Tire - Motomaster Eliminator Inverter customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings
Website still down for maintenance, so that's all I can dig up on it at the moment.
And yes the fridge can run on 12v, it's the new style ARB, think mines the 47litre one.
I want to run power to the back of my 81. I've been thinking about it for 2 plus years, and now with Rubithon coming up (quickly!), it's time to get off my ass.
Canadian Tire - Motomaster Eliminator Inverter customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings
Website still down for maintenance, so that's all I can dig up on it at the moment.
And yes the fridge can run on 12v, it's the new style ARB, think mines the 47litre one.
I want to run power to the back of my 81. I've been thinking about it for 2 plus years, and now with Rubithon coming up (quickly!), it's time to get off my ass.
Bogo
FOOF
Another thing to remember modified sine wave and square wave inverters are less efficient at powering motors. So a 1000W one likely can only power a 700W motor. They will also make the motor heat up allot more. Just run it off of DC.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
If its the new ARB then run the DC lines back to where the fridge is. You are going to have to run cables for an inverter anyway, might as well run them for the fridge.
- Thread starter
- #9
Aye, that is now the plan. Planning on mounting it somehow in the rear cargo area where the defunct subwoofer is.
And if anyone is interested, this particular inverter also has a 5V USB port, I seem to recall one of the many threads on inverter installs here that a USB was on a wishlist.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Yeah thats my only regret with my install is not adding a USB charge port 
Yeah thats my only regret with my install is not adding a USB charge port
HF has/had a 12V cig lighter plugin USB charger for something like $5.
It ended up uglier than intended, but here's my rear DC power port (a Marinco locking one) that I used a plastic house wiring box to provide a place where it doesn't stick directly out from the cabin wall.
Pretty sure it was 10 gauge wire I ran to it. Cozied the wire into the left side harness loom, through the firewall to where it's fused to the primary battery.
The guarded switch allows me to kill the fridge without unplugging.
I'm with the leave it on DC crowd. For extended use, you're just generating extra heat running the inverter and the juice through an extra rectification, thus will drain the battery sooner than you otherwise would if you operated on 12 VDC.
Pretty sure it was 10 gauge wire I ran to it. Cozied the wire into the left side harness loom, through the firewall to where it's fused to the primary battery.
The guarded switch allows me to kill the fridge without unplugging.
I'm with the leave it on DC crowd. For extended use, you're just generating extra heat running the inverter and the juice through an extra rectification, thus will drain the battery sooner than you otherwise would if you operated on 12 VDC.
- Thread starter
- #13
Finally, it's all done! 1500W inverter, 50W solar panel c/w regulator, and constant 12V power.
Fridge is now anchored down on an aluminum plate, it will do until I win the fridge mount at Rubithon this year. Which reminds me, I will have to see if the Margarita machine will still fit in once we finish packing.
Fridge is now anchored down on an aluminum plate, it will do until I win the fridge mount at Rubithon this year. Which reminds me, I will have to see if the Margarita machine will still fit in once we finish packing.
sailor
Jackass of all trades
Finally! Someone who uses quality wire!
Jeff,
All the hardware bolted to the floor -- Is that from a JDM camper conversion?
All the hardware bolted to the floor -- Is that from a JDM camper conversion?
- Thread starter
- #16
Yup, some better pics of it wayyyyyy back here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/ca-bc-coastal-cruisers/227494-new-baby-home-2.html#post3433510
- Thread starter
- #17
- Thread starter
- #18
How long are you guys able to run your fridge (mine is the 47litre model) without the vehicle running?
I have mine set to -5 deg C, with the battery minder set to HI (for max battery protection), and the red error light is flashing on the fridge by the end of the day, indicating that it has drawn the battery down low enough to turn the fridge off. Ambient temperature is around the low 20's deg C or so the last few days.
The truck starts fine, now that I don't misinterpret the meaning of ARB's HI & Low settings.
I have mine set to -5 deg C, with the battery minder set to HI (for max battery protection), and the red error light is flashing on the fridge by the end of the day, indicating that it has drawn the battery down low enough to turn the fridge off. Ambient temperature is around the low 20's deg C or so the last few days.
The truck starts fine, now that I don't misinterpret the meaning of ARB's HI & Low settings.
Old school ARB fridge, and I have gotten around five days off of the stock FJ battery.
A little sluggish starting it up, but it kicked over.
This was several years ago, now I run a solar setup to keep the batteries charged up while camping.
A little sluggish starting it up, but it kicked over.
This was several years ago, now I run a solar setup to keep the batteries charged up while camping.
Jacket
Moderator
Have you actually checked and confirmed the low voltage situation? I had issues with my fridge shutting off for low voltage detection, but it turned out to be an issue with my 12v socket plug and related wiring. When the compressor cycles on there's a spike in amp draw, and if you have a significant drop in your plug it can cause the whole thing to shut back down. I ended up swapping in an anderson plug and it's been fine ever since.
To answer your question specifically, I got 3.5 days on my battery this past weekend before it got below 11 volts (mines not a starting battery so I can let it drop pretty low). Temps were around 75-80 degrees (sunny and thus hotter inside the truck), and around 45-50 at night.
To answer your question specifically, I got 3.5 days on my battery this past weekend before it got below 11 volts (mines not a starting battery so I can let it drop pretty low). Temps were around 75-80 degrees (sunny and thus hotter inside the truck), and around 45-50 at night.
