I thought everyone might want to see my dual battery install.
Here are the big parts I used, what they cost and where I got them:
1. 4+ battery tray, $125 from man-a-fre
2. Painless waterproof dual battery control system, $180 from Spider Performance Accessories (most places are about $225ish).
3. Blue top Optima battery, $160 from COSTCO.
4. All new battery cables from FOURRUNNER here on IH8MUD, his standard kit is $130 plus I ordered 3 extra cables to set up the dual system. I'll defer to him on pricing for a dual battery kit.
Here are some learning points:
1. The 4+ battery tray is nice. It is pre drilled for the Painless solenoid and has a spot to relocate the radiator overflow. I mounted the tray low as there were 2 holes in the front wall by the headlights that I could use and not have to drill. This meant that I couldn't use the spot for the radiator overflow bracket. I simply bought a big hose clamp from Home Depot and slid it further around the driver's side and used the big holes in the fender to route the clamp. I also needed about 4 feet of the little hose to go from the radiator to the overflow.
2. The Painless system has you tap into an ignition wire that is hot when the key is in run or start only. The manual said the wire was black and blue, but in reality it was green and white. Once I got into the steering column, the spots are numbered in the metal on the back of the ignition. THose numbers corresponded to the numbers in the manual. I found that the switch fit nicely between the interior light rheostat and the electric mirror adjustment and by removing the little door over the fuse panel you have easy access to this spot. Painless says to route the primary battery positive from the battery to the solenoid and then a second cable from the solenoid to the starter. I kept FOURRUNNERs standard set-up and ran a cable from the battery to the starter and the soleniod to the primary battery. This way works perfect too.
3. I went with the blue top Optima because they say it is for boats and RVs that sit for a long time, COSTCO seemed pretty cheap. When my primary dies, I think I will use a yellow top there. Lots of debate over batteries, my 2 cents.
4. FOURRUNNERs battery cables are awesome. As everyone says in the link below, the pics don't do them justice. These cables, along with SLCFJ62s headlight wiring harness (https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/354712-headlight-wire-harness-fj60-fj62.html) and my voltmeter is now solid as a rock. I installed his standard kit as advertised, no issues. I ordered three extra cables, a 4 foot positive to go from the solenoid to the primary battery. A 1 foot positive to go from the second battery to the solenoid and a 2 foot ground to from the second battery to the hook on top of the engine. Here is a link to his cables:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/343236-fj60-fj62-heavy-duty-battery-cable-sets.html
Overall, I am happy with the install. The scariest part of the whole thing was cutting the ignition wire. In the end she fired right up, and now I can jump myself when I'm an idiot and leave my lights on at the airport. Not that that's what prompted me to take this project on....
Here are some pics:
Here are the big parts I used, what they cost and where I got them:
1. 4+ battery tray, $125 from man-a-fre
2. Painless waterproof dual battery control system, $180 from Spider Performance Accessories (most places are about $225ish).
3. Blue top Optima battery, $160 from COSTCO.
4. All new battery cables from FOURRUNNER here on IH8MUD, his standard kit is $130 plus I ordered 3 extra cables to set up the dual system. I'll defer to him on pricing for a dual battery kit.
Here are some learning points:
1. The 4+ battery tray is nice. It is pre drilled for the Painless solenoid and has a spot to relocate the radiator overflow. I mounted the tray low as there were 2 holes in the front wall by the headlights that I could use and not have to drill. This meant that I couldn't use the spot for the radiator overflow bracket. I simply bought a big hose clamp from Home Depot and slid it further around the driver's side and used the big holes in the fender to route the clamp. I also needed about 4 feet of the little hose to go from the radiator to the overflow.
2. The Painless system has you tap into an ignition wire that is hot when the key is in run or start only. The manual said the wire was black and blue, but in reality it was green and white. Once I got into the steering column, the spots are numbered in the metal on the back of the ignition. THose numbers corresponded to the numbers in the manual. I found that the switch fit nicely between the interior light rheostat and the electric mirror adjustment and by removing the little door over the fuse panel you have easy access to this spot. Painless says to route the primary battery positive from the battery to the solenoid and then a second cable from the solenoid to the starter. I kept FOURRUNNERs standard set-up and ran a cable from the battery to the starter and the soleniod to the primary battery. This way works perfect too.
3. I went with the blue top Optima because they say it is for boats and RVs that sit for a long time, COSTCO seemed pretty cheap. When my primary dies, I think I will use a yellow top there. Lots of debate over batteries, my 2 cents.
4. FOURRUNNERs battery cables are awesome. As everyone says in the link below, the pics don't do them justice. These cables, along with SLCFJ62s headlight wiring harness (https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/354712-headlight-wire-harness-fj60-fj62.html) and my voltmeter is now solid as a rock. I installed his standard kit as advertised, no issues. I ordered three extra cables, a 4 foot positive to go from the solenoid to the primary battery. A 1 foot positive to go from the second battery to the solenoid and a 2 foot ground to from the second battery to the hook on top of the engine. Here is a link to his cables:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/343236-fj60-fj62-heavy-duty-battery-cable-sets.html
Overall, I am happy with the install. The scariest part of the whole thing was cutting the ignition wire. In the end she fired right up, and now I can jump myself when I'm an idiot and leave my lights on at the airport. Not that that's what prompted me to take this project on....
Here are some pics: