2.7l cracked exhaust manifold (1 Viewer)

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Brake Weight

Brake Weight

Joined
May 27, 2011
Threads
31
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982
Location
South MS
I've got a '99 and if you have the cast iron mani like mine, it's just a matter of time before yours cracks too. If it hasn't already. This is a poor design on Toyota's part that they have corrected in the latter Tacoma models. I have called my local dealership to price a new tubular manifold and was not pleased. I searched the internet and came up with a few alternatives, although further investigating let me down. The Pacesetter had bad reviews and then there'd be an excellent review thrown in.

-OEM tubular mani-$288.40 (PN: 17141-75080)
-OEM short pipe-$295.50 (PN: 17410-0C020)
-Pacesetter header-$180 from here; Pacesetter Header for 2.7L Toyota -Wheeler's Off-Road, Inc-
-NWOR looks better...and most likely pricey-er, but they're only open Tues-Thurs: Toyota 2.7 Tri-Y V6 / V-6 Headers Toyotas 4-cylinder engine performance, horsepower increases
-Amazon has PS for $164: http://www.amazon.com/Pacesetter-Headers-1996-Toyota-Tacoma/dp/B000JUR5RM
-Summit has Thorleys for $222.95, but it looks like you'd have to rerun your rusty short pipe below the nice stainless: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
--Then there's this at $368.95: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...6-14E0E816A140
--And for those that are thinking about a 4 banger turbo setup: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...9-A810D026664D

I'm going to call NWOR come Tuesday and see what that one costs. Depending on price/shipping, I may go that route. Although I've read where it has cracked on some people, too. Otherwise it'll be the Wheeler's Pacesetter for the $180. A quick strip and repaint with a high temp paint, then mount up. Reviews on it say the paint peels off as soon as you get them hot and some of the O2 mounts aren't lined up as factory. One said their's had standard threads(I'm guessing some bungs got mixed up during fab) and other's said that the lengths weren't the same as stock. Which led to a some fabwork. I'm going to replace the rest of the exhaust at the same time anyway.


Anyone else have this problem? Other header suggestions?
 
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Brake Weight said:
I've got a '99 and if you have the cast iron mani like mine, it's just a matter of time before yours cracks too. If it hasn't already. This is a poor design on Toyota's part that they have corrected in the latter Tacoma models. I have called my local dealership to price a new tubular manifold and was not pleased. I searched the internet and came up with a few alternatives, although further investigating let me down. The Pacesetter had bad reviews and then there'd be an excellent review thrown in.

-OEM tubular mani-$288.40 (PN: 17141-75080)
-OEM short pipe-$295.50 (PN: 17410-0C020)
-Pacesetter header-$180 from here; Pacesetter Header for 2.7L Toyota -Wheeler's Off-Road, Inc-
-NWOR looks better...and most likely pricey-er, but they're only open Tues-Thurs: Toyota 2.7 Tri-Y V6 / V-6 Headers Toyotas 4-cylinder engine performance, horsepower increases
-Amazon has PS for $164: Amazon.com: Pacesetter Headers for 1996 - 2000 Toyota Tacoma: Automotive
-Summit has Thorleys for $222.95, but it looks like you'd have to rerun your rusty short pipe below the nice stainless: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Y...?Ns=Rank%7cAsc
--Then there's this at $368.95: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...6-14E0E816A140
--And for those that are thinking about a 4 banger turbo setup: http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...9-A810D026664D

I'm going to call NWOR come Tuesday and see what that one costs. Depending on price/shipping, I may go that route. Although I've read where it has cracked on some people, too. Otherwise it'll be the Wheeler's Pacesetter for the $180. A quick strip and repaint with a high temp paint, then mount up. Reviews on it say the paint peels off as soon as you get them hot and some of the O2 mounts aren't lined up as factory. One said their's had standard threads(I'm guessing some bungs got mixed up during fab) and other's said that the lengths weren't the same as stock. Which led to a some fabwork. I'm going to replace the rest of the exhaust at the same time anyway.


Anyone else have this problem? Other header suggestions?
Click to expand...

I had a buddy who replaced with the NWOR header then switched to the OEM mini header when the NWOR one cracked. Everything still good with the mini header.

Install also....
OEM mini header install for 2.7L*(Pics)* - YotaTech Forums
 
Don't have any knowledge on difference between the ones you listed, but Gary at wheelers is a stand up guy in my experience with him.

don't 'mud and drive
 
I'll be staying in the 'city' for a few days. There's about 5 stealerships here an Ima hit all of them up. Maybe Jew one of them down. But I'm leaning towards the Wheeler PC. I bought all my suspension from him and had a good experience. Aside from the 5100 shocks being too short, but he gave me my money back minus the return shipping. Checked out the installs on YouTube and have decided to do a side exit ahead of the passenger tire. Get them to go up and over the frame and dump straight down. Kinda like a stink pipe on a sink. If I ever stalled it out in water the muffler and cat would be safe. Haven't decide on a muffler. All the videos I found were louder than I want. All 2.25" pipe as well.
 
The cheapest OEM I could source was $240 at a dealership. That's just the mini header. I'd still have to run my old rust downpipe section.
 
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Brake Weight said:
The cheapest OEM I could source was $340 at a dealership. That's just the mini header. I'd still have to run my old rust downpipe section.
Click to expand...

Here you go.

http://www.partswebsite.com/autopartspeople/

Go here and enter in the 17141-75080 in the part number search. down to the right. They have it for $165. You can get it shipped to your door for under two hundred.

:cheers:
 
I just bought an OEM one from CDan, much beefier than the original and around $200.00.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
I ordered the Pacesetter plain paint vs. the thermocoat or whatever they offer for another $100. I stripped it with some Aircraft Stripper (had some on hand) and aircraft stripper is like none other. It boils in 95 degree weather and the burning sensation on the skin is like napalm. After I got it stripped I couldn't get the stripper off. So I then took it to the carwash in a plastic bag. Cleaned it up there and again at home. Then I hung it up and rattle canned it with some header paint, flat black. $205 for header to my doorstep and $8 for the paint. Not too bad as long as this thing holds together. All the welds looked good when it was stripped so it should.

I noticed no increase or decrease in performance, but it doesn't have that 'ticking' sound like the cracked manifold made that drove me crazy. It has a little grumble under the hood during hard 'acceleration' though. And the sound at the tailpipe is the same. The flange for the EGR was off slightly, but I was able to pull the EGR pipe over with my floor jack hande and get the bolts started. Also, I couldn't remove to reuse the bolts for the EGR and precat O2 sensor. I just so happened to have 4 bolts in my toolbox that were 8mm that I had jacked off of my drilling rig. I had to cut them down to make them short enough to work. It's good to be a random bolt klepto.

I did the install at night, finished around 10:30. I took it for a test spin and got a CEL before I left the driveway. I figured it was from the paint getting heated for the first time so I gave it a real good 'spirited' drive for about 15 minutes to burn off whatever and make sure that whatever it was didn't imbed in the cat without getting incinerated before returning home. I disconnected the battery and when I hooked it up in the morning and fired her up, no CEL.

So here it is. All the tubes are different lengths.
photo1-29.jpg



Next to the cast one, it does look more efficient.
photo2-36.jpg



It's kinda hard to see in the iPhone pic, but there's 2 hair line cracks, and a 3rd larger one that you could actually see open up when you work the throttle.
photo3-24.jpg


and the underside of it
photo-102.jpg



It looks like it's real close to the fire wall, but it's just as close as the OEM manifold was.
photo5-12.jpg
 
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I kind of like the way that looks. Do you have before fuel numbers to see if you manage better mpgs with it?
 
I have 33s and a fiberglass camper. I'm hoping that the poor mileage I was getting with the cracked manifold was due mainly to the cracks. And not so much tires and camper.

My before mileage is terrible. I'd average 14-16 interstate driving. I'm still on my first tank of gas since putting this header on. Two of the three gaskets that Pacesetter sent with it have already blown out. The one against the engine is still intact. I've replaced one with the OEM one and had to make the other.
 
i had my fill of headers, warping, blown gaskets, starter solenoids not working so ya jumper it with a screwdriver to start your car, burnt ignition leads and burnt hands etc.... had enough of them rodding years ago... perhaps you can still get the material to wrap them.
Hope they work out for you.
 
So what is this double Y I have read about?
Is that a TDR thing??
 
Oh, I thought people were referring to a specific Toyota TRD part as the best replacement for the original.
 
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